Pre-LS swap questions

[Root2812]

Well I haven't posted in the LS section in a long time per the above request but there has been a turn in my progress. My so called "good" engine was crap. It looks like it was left outside and got water in it. 4 cylinders were rusty. Its off to the machine shop for a bore and to get the heads done. I am hoping you guys can help point me to a quality full rebuild kit for a good price. I need new pistons and everything. The motor is a 2000 LM7 5.3.

I'll keep you all posted on the status of things. I hope to have it off to the machine shop sometime in the next month or so.

[oldman3]

Root, hope I didn't offend you with my post, that was not my intention, if I did I'm sorry...Jim

[Root2812]

Jim, No you didn't offend. I just took your request and stopped posting non motor stuff in here.

[Angryman117]

Root how bad were the cylinders. I had the same problem with the 2004 84K motor I got. Guess the po thought it was a good idea to pressure wash the engine with the sparkplugs out of one side. How ever I was able to get the pistons out after soaking in mystery oil for a couple of days. Then a light hone cleaned them up real nice. The pistons also cleaned up nice in my parts washer. I also lapped the valves myself and put it all back together. Still runs good after 8K miles and burns no oil. Also used ARP head bolts as the stock ones are one use only.

Other that the what you mentioned, does the rest of the motor look to be in good shape?

[Root2812]

I had it turning over 6 months ago before I pulled the heads. It turned over with a socket and ratchet on the crank pulley. When I pulled the heads last month one of the pistons was stuck. The #1 piston is really rusty. The other 3 rusty ones aren't too bad.

Other than the cylinders I found the knock sensors are ruined. I pulled the intake and then pulled the rubber plugs over the knock sensors just to find those were full of water too and all corroded. I will have to replace the valley pan and the knock sensors. I still have to open up the bottom end and hope that's not full of rust.

[Root2812]

So I got some advice from a member over on LS1tech and I want to run it by your guys. The guy said that if I need a bore anyway I could save some money buying used 5.7L pistons from an LS1 and just have it bored out from a 5.3 to a 5.7. Does that sound possible to your guys? I am pretty sure I'll need new pistons so cheaper and more cubes seems like a good idea.

[Root2812]

Well this weekend I got my engine torn down for the rebuild. My #2 piston was stuck due to rust but I got it out. I am definitely going to have to go .030 but we will see what the machinist says. All 16 lifters were slightly stuck because of all the carbon. I gave them a gentile tap and they all came out. I am hoping to reuse them if I can get them all cleaned up. The rollers on them all still moved good. When I got the cam out I must have rubbed it on the way out because I see a light hairline scratch on one of the surfaces where it sits in the cam bearing. Its very fine but I can lightly feel it with my finder nail. Do you guys think I can still reuse it?

Here is a pic of the stuck piston before I got it out. It shows the rust.

[68c10airstream]

Root2812, i had the same issues on my junkyard 2001 5.3. Ebay had brand new stock blocks, standard bore, and cam bearings already installed for $199.00 plus shipping. Total cost in my hands was $325.00. Pistons will need to be replaced no matter which direction you go. I ran the gm number on the block and it was for 99-05 5.3 replacement. Good luck.

[Root2812]

Hey everyone. So I have what I think is a simple question and I think I know the answer but its best to ask and know then just go with it and be wrong with a blown up motor. My engine block will be back from the machinist next week and I am ready to build it. Its my first engine build so I bought a book that is a detailed step by step with good pictures and all the torque specs and sequences. How to Rebuild GM LS-Series Engines (S-A Design):...
The book says to use a fastener lube to get proper torque specs so I bought the ARP one because that is what I could find. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-100-9909

I read the ARP bottle and the online info but it just says for use with high performance engines and with ARP bolts. I assumed that they only mention their bolts because that's what they want you to buy. Can I use this with the stock (new) torque to yield bolts or do I need something else? Would I use this on all torqued bolts like accessory drive bolts?

So the only update is that my chassis is done and ready for the motor, fuel lines, and brakes. The engine will be back next week and ready for reassembly. When I tore the motor apart all 16 lifters were stuck on their bores so I got 16 new lifters (GM replacements which are LS7 lifters but recommended for all LS motors), the LS2 lifter guides (read they were the ones to use), and a new stock cam from GMpartsdirect.com. I also got a whole slew of other new parts besides the rebuild kit. After being burned on my used engine I didn't want to do that again and new short blocks are too costly. This rebuild will be somewhere between the two cost wise but I will know I have a good new motor as long as I do a good job. I am also happy that I can say that I built everything on this truck!

[Root2812]

Has no one used fastener assembly lube?

[Root2812]

Progress is moving along but wanted to ask a question before I break something. If I have a new PS pump and new pulley can I use a press to push the pulley on or will that wreck the pump? Do I have to take it to a dealer with a special tool?

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by Root2812

Progress is moving along but wanted to ask a question before I break something. If I have a new PS pump and new pulley can I use a press to push the pulley on or will that wreck the pump? Do I have to take it to a dealer with a special tool?

You can rent the tool at your local parts store...

[solidaxel]

I would not use a press
The parts store will loan you a tool to install your pulley

[Cobalt964ruf]

yes you can safely bore a 5.3 to 5.7. yes you can use arp lube on tty bolts, i agree with solidaxle... a tool is not that expensive to buy or rent at the parts store. have fun.

[Root2812]

Thanks Guys. I like to ask things I don't know before I make an expensive blunder.

I finally have an engine. I built it with my dad, it was the first engine for both of us. Soon it will be in the truck... By soon I mean next time I visit and can work on it. Once the motor is in I can take it home and work more regularly. Here are a few pictures.

I wanted to leave the heads raw aluminum but the marks from past corrosion looked bad so I painted them silver. They look nice.



Then I put it together


Then I just layed the intake on. Its only in primer right now. It will be gloss black.

[50 Chevy LS3]

Hey,Greg, looks like your coming along well, on your engine.
Like the other guys said, use the proper tool on that PS pulley. Trying to press it, will ruin the pump. I purchased a puller/installer kit, which includes everything for every brand auto, for 40 bucks.
One little tip, clean the inner bore of the pulley with scotch brite, heat the pulley up and then work fast. They push on TIGHT.

Steve.

[Root2812]

Thanks Steve. I will see if I can rent or borrow a tool.

Now that my engine is squared away I am dealing with the accessory drive. I want as much clearance as possible so I don't have to modify my firewall so I bought the Holley alternator/PS bracket that runs the corvette spacing. Now I need to buy all the parts to go with it and damn they are expensive. PS pump, tensioner, and alternator are pretty straight forward but I need to find a decent price on each of those. The catchy one is the water pump. I have 3 options. The ls1/ls6 pump with the bell pulley, an ls3/ls7 corvette pump, or an ls3 pump from a Camaro. All bolt up I was thinking either of the ls3 pumps because the pulley is narrower and would give me a little more room for the electric fan. Of course they have to cost twice as much as the LS1/LS6 pump. The LS3s differ by outlet location. So many choices.

But let me ask you guys another question. The steam line.... I don't know where to run it. I would rather not tap my new waterpump because then if I ever have to change it if I'm out on a trip I would have problems. Do I have to run it to the top of the radiator then? And do I need a coolant reservoir for the radiator to overflow into? Could I run the steam lines to that? I have heard the terms surge tank and overflow tank and have no idea what they mean. Please enlighten me on what I need to do.

Thanks for all the help guys. Exhaust will be next but BREW CITY is already schooling me in another thread.

[SparkyRnD]

For the steam, we always recommend putting it into the radiator (that's what we do for all of our radiator customers with LS conversions). I also always recommend a catch can, as any coolant that goes into the catch can will go back into the cooling system instead of the ground.

[ls1nova71]

You CAN'T run the steam line to an overflow bottle. I usually run it to the top of the radiator too, because like you said, if it goes out in the middle of nowhere, it would be easier to just swap a water pump and not having to worry about drilling and tapping another water pump in a parking lot somewhere. Also, I don't think you can use a Camaro LS3 water pump since they use the truck belt spacing, not the Corvette spacing that you are running.

[Root2812]

Well the engine is in... but with issues. I am going to have to raise the engine in the frame because of oil pan to ground clearance and I might swap the pan to an f-body pan too just incase. I also don't know if my crank pulley will have enough clearance to the steering rack so moving the engine up will help there too. Also, just as Brew City predicted, my exhaust manifolds won't work. They fit but there is no way to get the steering linkage past them plus there is only an 8th of an inch or clearance to the frame. Looks like I'll need to find something else.

Has anyone tried these? http://www.speedwaymotors.com/LS1-Ti...FQcOaQodwwcLbg

They look like they will work from what I saw on other forums while google searching but at that price I am skeptical on quality.

I'll keep you guys posted.

[FarmerSid]

Take a look at my build and see if what I did will work for you.

[LockDoc]

-
I used these on my '67 and they fit great. I'm not sure how they would work on the 50 though.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hooker-Heade...xTxRxO&vxp=mtr

I think you can also get them in a coated version.

LockDoc

[ls1nova71]

I would think a set of fourth gen F body manifolds would fit. Do you have a pic of your steering set up? May have to get creative with it to make it clear.

[50 Chevy LS3]

Greg, I've been going through the same problem with mine, lately.
I ordered the Sanderson headers listed for this application.
You can see everything, with pictures here,http://talk.classicparts.com/threads...headers.22242/
The thread rambles somewhat, with Lakeroadster and I discussing general things, but, it shows pictures of how I solved the problem.
It looks to me, my engine sits a little more rearward than yours.
I'm going with the F-body oil pan.
My engine is the 6.0 LQ9, so I opted for the 1,5/8" header tubes.

Steve.

[Root2812]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

-
I used these on my '67 and they fit great. I'm not sure how they would work on the 50 though.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hooker-Heade...xTxRxO&vxp=mtr

I think you can also get them in a coated version.

LockDoc

I will have to take some more measurements to see if those would work. Right now my biggest clearance issue is width.

Originally Posted by ls1nova71

I would think a set of fourth gen F body manifolds would fit. Do you have a pic of your steering set up? May have to get creative with it to make it clear.

manifolds wouldn't work. Are the fbody ones tighter than the corvette ones I have?

I don't have a steering set up yet. I just have so little space for the manifold and steering to share that I knew my

Originally Posted by 50 Chevy LS3

Greg, I've been going through the same problem with mine, lately.
I ordered the Sanderson headers listed for this application.
You can see everything, with pictures here,http://talk.classicparts.com/threads...headers.22242/
The thread rambles somewhat, with Lakeroadster and I discussing general things, but, it shows pictures of how I solved the problem.
It looks to me, my engine sits a little more rearward than yours.
I'm going with the F-body oil pan.
My engine is the 6.0 LQ9, so I opted for the 1,5/8" header tubes.

Steve.

Thanks Steve. I'll have to give your thread a read.