Shrunken66Stroker's build thread.

[shrunken66stroker]

Originally Posted by MacAttack

Wow. Really nice brake set-up.

Better have tight tooth fillings when you slam on the binders in that truck.

Mac.

It should feel like I threw an anchor out. Now if I could just figure out what to do about running the lines. Time for another search. I know there's the pre-bent route and the bend it yourself route. I have a cheap bender but I don't have a flare tool and from what I understand they're expensive. What to do?

[protrash64]

I did my first brake job by buying every length of tube from the parts store and getting a pile of unions. It turned out pretty clean and I didnt make one flare. I returned all the unused lines.....I have since picked up a 20 buck flare tool that is a pain but makes decent flares. It's not hard and you will come in WAY under any pre-bent cost, if you dont mind doing the work.

[TwiggyTheDrummer]

I just picked up line and did brake and trans cooling lines and returned the rest. Didn't have to try and determine which line is which either.

[shrunken66stroker]

How much would I have to spend to get a decent flare tool? I've heard that's the place to spend the money. I definitely don't mind doing it myself but haven't even seen it done before. Does anyone have a recommendation on a specific brand of flare tool that works good and doesn't cost a fortune? I'm thinking I can get the flare tool, use my bender, buy the line and still come in under what I would have spent on pre-bent...hopefully.

[ksbrktracer]

I have a Snap-On double flaring kit, If you are doing brake lines they have to be double flared and I think they are done at 45 degrees, If you do stainless line I think you are suppose to do them at 37 degrees......Someone correct me if I am wrong, but I believe that is right (why I dont know).....My 37 degree tool is a Rigid Brand (I think), I will double check and let you know, I special ordered off of the tool truck......(yes Im a tool junkie and I hate borrowing tools a 2nd time) I think my 37 degree tool was about 120.00 ????

Tommy

[protrash64]

The expensive flare tools are nice, but not necessary. I bought a total Chinese dbl flare tool at Checker. I only needed to make 4 flares for the whole truck. I redid the lines from the prop valve down. With the pre-made lines, you have one end done already. The tool is a POS but got it done. I made about 3 practice flares before attempting one on a line I bent.

I think the 45* is for AN fittings...not sure why stainless would be different than anything else? Harder?

[protrash64]

ksbrktracer is right.....45* for double flare; 37* for stainless and AN.

[Strodder]

Originally Posted by shrunken66stroker

Well, I'm back in action...sort of. I don't have a lot of time these days but yesterday I had just enough to mock up my new booster/master and take a look. It feels good to work on the old truck after over a month.

Do you have a better picture of the Power brake Unit Bracket? Looks like it doesn't stick out too far. Looks good.

[shrunken66stroker]

The bracket is pretty short. I think 2 1/2 inches is all. It's a CPP disc/disc unit that I got on ebay for about a hundred under what they sell it on the site for and it is brand new. On this you use two existing holes for the bottom and drill the top two, which I haven't done yet. That will be next and I've started looking on ebay for a flare tool.

[shrunken66stroker]

I live in Vegas where it doesn't rain or snow and there's no salt on the roads, so is there any reason to buy stainless lines?

[joe231]

here comes the thread jack........................

strodder, have you seen Captainfab's adapter bracket to use 88-98 booster and master on our trucks?

check captain's sig or on the parts board

[shrunken66stroker]

Aren't you supposed to be hounding someone about posting pics on another thread?

[protrash64]

I would think stainless only for cosmetic reasons or to rack up a higher kill ratio on the credit card......

[shrunken66stroker]

The credit card is half dead so I'll use the regular shtuff. Does the diameter of the line change with disc brakes all around or is it the same as the drums? I have all of my old lines intact. They're even bent and flared already! The only issue is the line that runs to the rear is a foot too long since I took a foot out of the frame.

[Captainfab]

It's been a while since I bought my double flare tool, but I think it is Lisle brand......around $40-50. Does a good job and has held up well.

[Strodder]

Originally Posted by shrunken66stroker

I live in Vegas where it doesn't rain or snow and there's no salt on the roads, so is there any reason to buy stainless lines?

I would use stainless steel lines because moister gets in the brake fluid from condensation caused by heat. That's why wheel cylinders, and calipers get pitted. Not from out side conditions.
Besides the 18 months I lived in Vegas it snowed twice. Not much but it did snow.
This was our Christmas Card from Vegas. Notice even the little duckie has snow on his head.

[Strodder]

Originally Posted by joe231

here comes the thread jack........................

strodder, have you seen Captainfab's adapter bracket to use 88-98 booster and master on our trucks?

check captain's sig or on the parts board

Yes I saw that bracket. Nice setup.

[joe231]

Originally Posted by shrunken66stroker

Aren't you supposed to be hounding someone about posting pics on another thread?

I'll ignore that remark.....

Originally Posted by shrunken66stroker

The credit card is half dead so I'll use the regular shtuff. Does the diameter of the line change with disc brakes all around or is it the same as the drums? I have all of my old lines intact. They're even bent and flared already! The only issue is the line that runs to the rear is a foot too long since I took a foot out of the frame.

I believe with 4 wheel discs you can run the smaller diameter line all around and ditch the larger line used for drums

[shrunken66stroker]

Originally Posted by joe231

I'll ignore that remark.....




I believe with 4 wheel discs you can run the smaller diameter line all around and ditch the larger line used for drums

Is the smaller diameter 1/4" instead of 3/8"? Or is it 5/16?

[Strodder]

Originally Posted by shrunken66stroker

Is the smaller diameter 1/4" instead of 3/8"? Or is it 5/16?

I think it's 1/4" for front disc brakes, but I would use the original size for the rear if your keeping the drum brakes. The smaller diameter creates more pressure for the calipers. It's like when you pinch the end of a hose.

[TR65]

Hey Stroker,

I bought a Rigid 345 flare tool and a Rigid 1/4" bender. Good quality and they work very well.

Stainless lines are much harder to flare and to keep from leaking.

You might want to consider using silicone brake fluid. It doesn't absorb water and is not corrosive to paint (or any thing else). I have used it for 30 years with no problems. You can read a lot of controversy about it but I wouldn't use anything else.

TR

[joe231]

Originally Posted by Strodder

I think it's 1/4" for front disc brakes, but I would use the original size for the rear if your keeping the drum brakes. The smaller diameter creates more pressure for the calipers. It's like when you pinch the end of a hose.

yeah I think it is 1/4" also...

not to split hairs but....technically the size of the line doesn't change the pressure, it changes the volume...the difference in pressure is determined by the piston/wheel cylinder diameters in relation to the master cylinder(hydraulic multiplication) and the amount of force applied to the master cylinder.
there will be less pressure applied to the wheel cylinder because the wheel cylinder cups have less area than the caliper piston due to PSI (pounds of force per square inch) not to even go into the metering and proportioning....

that is my understanding anyway

[protrash64]

Originally Posted by shrunken66stroker

Is the smaller diameter 1/4" instead of 3/8"? Or is it 5/16?

Its 3/16ths; thats what Ive always used on everything.

[Strodder]

Originally Posted by joe231

yeah I think it is 1/4" also...

not to split hairs but....technically the size of the line doesn't change the pressure, it changes the volume...the difference in pressure is determined by the piston/wheel cylinder diameters in relation to the master cylinder(hydraulic multiplication) and the amount of force applied to the master cylinder.
there will be less pressure applied to the wheel cylinder because the wheel cylinder cups have less area than the caliper piston due to PSI (pounds of force per square inch) not to even go into the metering and proportioning....

that is my understanding anyway

Makes sense.

[shrunken66stroker]

The fittings on the prop valve are different sizes. The one for the rear is a 3/8" female and the front is a 5/16" female. The shop I went to has 1/4, 5/16 and 3/8 line. Should I use the 1/4 all the way around and will I just have to get two different fittings to hook to the master? They also have a flare tool I can rent for a few bucks.