86 squarebody made2drag

[made2drag]

Originally Posted by 91Subbed

What are you doing to the rear? What are those pipe notches for?
Was the front easy to install?
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the pipe notches are so i could go 2 1/2 more inches lower. if i put my bed on my axle would go into my pipe notches all the way and i would use air bags to air up the back and have 4 inches of suspension at say 60 psi im guessing. next i am gonna build a 3x3 step notch and cut out the pipe notches to go even lower. the steps will get me 3 inches lower than the pipe notches. i also will add some 3x3 lowering blocks to help achieve this. hope this helps you out and if you need any more help let me know

good luck on your build

[made2drag]

Originally Posted by 91Subbed

I need help installing a simple system? From the pics you posted you made it look real simple! I wanna go buy parts and start on my suburban! You got a list of some of the basic parts I will need???
Thanks!
P.s: truck looks good!
Posted via Mobile Device

in the front i used spring compressors to take the springs out.
i bought some upper bag plates from suicide doors (www.*******************)
they were like 40 bucks and came with the bolts
then i drilled and bolted the plates and screwed in the 1/2 prestolok fittings, then bolted everything up. i used the bottom plates from airlift...that come with the airbags and didnt use any lower bag cups. they just sit in there. then i used 1/2 airline that was about 25 bucks at the local Parker store. a Tee and connectors on the manifold i bought from lowes for about 15 bucks and ball valves from lowes which were 5 bucks each. the shrader valve thing came off the walmart air tank that you see in the back. i have a cig lighter air compressor i bought from autozone a couple years ago for about 55 bucks.
most of the fittings and connectors i already had from previous trucks and i threw this all together to make it work until i have money for a good airtank and smc valves...500 right now for the stuff just isnt gonna happen because i have tires to buy and im working on the step notch. let me know if you need anymore help.

btw im not using the walmart tank because it isnt rates for the 140 psi it takes to air up my truck. i have the ball valve on the right side blocked off so my comp only fills the bags and the other valves lets the air out of the bags.

[made2drag]

Originally Posted by 91Subbed

I need help installing a simple system? From the pics you posted you made it look real simple! I wanna go buy parts and start on my suburban! You got a list of some of the basic parts I will need???
Thanks!
P.s: truck looks good!
Posted via Mobile Device

do yourself a favor and get the 1/2 inch air bags to start out with....you can always reduce it down to 3/8s if you want.

get slam specialties bags and most people get the 2600's or 2700's in the front and get sleeve bags in the rear made by firestone...

if you get anything else you'll just wish you started out with these later.

from experience, i would say you want 1/2 to fill your bags and 1/4 to air out. fast up and slow going down, so you dont hit the ground hard. 1/4 will also let you air down slow enough so you can watch your gauge and stop at the best riding psi....i hope this helps

[made2drag]

btw, my 2500's in the pic arent staying...when i modify my lca's im gonna put 2700's (slam specialties)

[made2drag]

the 2500's were 94 to the door from ebay and got me the lowest without spindles...the whole reason i got them. they will end up being spares for road trips as back up

[gGMC DOG]

1/2" NPT Valve Dump Control
Having these on your dump valve will allow you to fine tune your drop speed. If you hit the ground too hard when you hit your dump switch, you just might want to try some of these. They also have a built in silencer that quiets things down.


http://www.jpkustoms.com/catalog/sus...e-dump-control

[made2drag]

Originally Posted by gGMC DOG

1/2" NPT Valve Dump Control
Having these on your dump valve will allow you to fine tune your drop speed. If you hit the ground too hard when you hit your dump switch, you just might want to try some of these. They also have a built in silencer that quiets things down.


http://www.jpkustoms.com/catalog/sus...e-dump-control

great advice, man! those are the way to go!

also, for the guy with the suburban...there are even more ways to do this...you could put a 1/4 barb fitting on the output of your dump valve...nice, slow and controlled and you still get the sound, i personally like the sound. also you could put a ball valve on the output and adj it until it is as slow as you want it...then at a show or something you could open it up for the fast decent to the ground. ball valves are 1/3 of the price and you can find them anywhere for $5 each. 1/4 barb fitting would cost like $1. i think gGMC DOG has the best advise, so consider those if you have the extra green! for me every dollar counts, since i have a very tight budget for my truck.

[made2drag]

Originally Posted by gGMC DOG

1/2" NPT Valve Dump Control
Having these on your dump valve will allow you to fine tune your drop speed. If you hit the ground too hard when you hit your dump switch, you just might want to try some of these. They also have a built in silencer that quiets things down.


http://www.jpkustoms.com/catalog/sus...e-dump-control

does anyone make these without silencers? i like the adjustability but want the aired out sound

[made2drag]

[made2drag]

found a website that sells close to new tires

got this 235/45/20 pirelli with 7/32's of tread left for $93 shipped to my door.

if it didnt have pebbles in the tread, it could visually past for new

[made2drag]

Originally Posted by made2drag

in the front i used spring compressors to take the springs out.
i bought some upper bag plates from suicide doors (www.*******************)
they were like 40 bucks and came with the bolts
then i drilled and bolted the plates and screwed in the 1/2 prestolok fittings, then bolted everything up. i used the bottom plates from airlift...that come with the airbags and didnt use any lower bag cups. they just sit in there. then i used 1/2 airline that was about 25 bucks at the local Parker store. a Tee and connectors on the manifold i bought from lowes for about 15 bucks and ball valves from lowes which were 5 bucks each. the shrader valve thing came off the walmart air tank that you see in the back. i have a cig lighter air compressor i bought from autozone a couple years ago for about 55 bucks.
most of the fittings and connectors i already had from previous trucks and i threw this all together to make it work until i have money for a good airtank and smc valves...500 right now for the stuff just isnt gonna happen because i have tires to buy and im working on the step notch. let me know if you need anymore help.

btw im not using the walmart tank because it isnt rates for the 140 psi it takes to air up my truck. i have the ball valve on the right side blocked off so my comp only fills the bags and the other valves lets the air out of the bags.

here is a pic of a schrader valve if anyone is wondering.

http://www.spudtech.com/detail.asp?id=44

[91Subbed]

Ok I guess were I'm stuck at is the manifold and ball valves you bought at loews...And what about dump valves? Do I need them if I'm using a schrader valve?
I have the money to buy I just need to know exactly what I need...
Thanks for your help!
Posted via Mobile Device

[made2drag]

Originally Posted by 91Subbed

Ok I guess were I'm stuck at is the manifold and ball valves you bought at loews...And what about dump valves? Do I need them if I'm using a schrader valve?
I have the money to buy I just need to know exactly what I need...
Thanks for your help!
Posted via Mobile Device

ok, to answer your question...all you would need to do is put (1) 1/2 inch coupler on the end of the line (closest to the steering wheel) and put a 1/2 inch to 1/8 fitting and screw in the shrader valve. you could use an air hose at home or a gas station to fill it up and with your thumb nail or something deflate the bags. you would basically be airing your bags up like you would a tire on a bicycle. and to go a little further you could do that and then carry a tire air compressor with you to air it up. if you have 5 mins every time you want to drive it. keep in mind my set up is just to get me to the welder in town or to get gas while im working on gettin the rear done and bed and saving for smc valves.

heres some more help:

ball valves are either open or closed. the air from your tank is closed off until u open the valve a little or all the way. it lets your air go to your bags. the line closest to my glove box is the air in from the tank. when i open the valve it lets air in thru the manifold and thru the line closest to my steering wheel. that line goes thru the firewall to a tee and then the 2 out of the tee go to each bag.

ok so thats how it gets air from the tank to the bags.

the ball valve on the manifold with nothing attached is the "dump valve". when i open that...it lets the air out of my bags because it opens up and the air escapes.

the last ball valve doesnt have to be used at all. the shrader valve is so i could air up the bags with out using the tank or compressor on the frame. it was the initial way i filled up the bags and the ball valve on the far right was always closed. when i filled it and got the psi i wanted i just closed that valve to eliminate a potential leak.

the manifold is nothing more than a tee with more connections. you could add a guage or lines for the rear or what have you.

go to lowes were the plumbing is...you'll see stuff like hose spikets (hose bibs) and you'll see ball valves and should be 5-6 bucks. the manifold will be near the black pipe and fittings and will be kind of hard to spot but keep looking. they are 15 bucks. just tell someone what your looking for and they should know where to look

[made2drag]

this should help you. in this pic, if i turn the compressor on, it would air it up. i could turn it off and drive like this without touching anything else. when i want to let the air out of the bags i open the ball valve closest to the steering wheel. you dont have to have the airline on the right, i ran that line that same day since i planned on a tank and compressor a few days later.

i really suggest using a setup like this as a temp fix.

i hope this helps clear everything up so you can move on with your bagged suburban.

if you make a build thread.....hook me up with your link!

my set up is for the front in the pic....i have nothing on the rear yet...not even shocks

[made2drag]

i got the Slime brand comp from autozone. it has the screw on connector. it was like 55 bucks. i take on road trips in my acura integra or honda pilot

[made2drag]

you can buy every fitting in the picture at lowes except for the green push to connect air line connectors. remeber to get teflon tape and some pipe joint teflon. it comes in a white plastic container and the lid has a brush on it. its like liquid teflon. they sell both at lowes. i wrap the fittings then brush on a little of the liquid stuff and it is very air tight afterwords


this is turning into a lowes advertisement

[91Subbed]

Thanks man you've cleared up alot of my questions!!!
I will keep you posted when I start tearing everything down. Thanks for the info it's very helpful!!!
Posted via Mobile Device

[made2drag]

Originally Posted by 91Subbed

Thanks man you've cleared up alot of my questions!!!
I will keep you posted when I start tearing everything down. Thanks for the info it's very helpful!!!
Posted via Mobile Device

no problem.......please dont use this kind of set up if your truck is laying control arm though, you need to keep some ground clearance....all it takes is a bump of the ball valve handle and you'll be on the ground and it wont be pretty at 50 mph.....or with no air tank to give you immediate air if you come up fast on a 2 x 4 or object in the road.....it may spell disaster for your passengers or another vehicle.....remember about safety.

i would never drive my truck like this if i didnt have the 1-2 inches of clearance if there was a leak or blow out and it aired out. the rear will have atleast an inch clearance also no matter how i do it in the long run

good luck man, glad i could help

[91Subbed]

Ok this is what I've got so far...
Install brackets and bags
1/2 fittings on top of bags
Run the 1/2 air line inside cab.

Ok now do I Tee it to a 1/2 inch schrader or manifold.
Or can I hook it up to a manual valve with a gauge and switch.
Tank and compressor?
Posted via Mobile Device

[91Subbed]

On your manifold set up the air line by the steering wheel is to both bags and the other by the compressor is to the tank, right?
So where the bags tee'd then ran into one side of the manifold?
So I could connect a tank to the right side and instead of the portable compressor I could run a schrader valve, right?
Hope the is right!!!
Posted via Mobile Device

[made2drag]

Originally Posted by 91Subbed

Ok this is what I've got so far...
Install brackets and bags
1/2 fittings on top of bags
Run the 1/2 air line inside cab.

Ok now do I Tee it to a 1/2 inch schrader or manifold.
Or can I hook it up to a manual valve with a gauge and switch.
Tank and compressor?
Posted via Mobile Device

you can take the 2 airlines from the bags and connect to the tee. the tee can stay in the eng compartment and when you come out of the tee run the 1 airline thru the firewall. there is a grommet on the firewall behind the brake petal that comes out and you can slide it thru there. at the end of that air line put a push to connect 1/2 in fitting there and then a coupler that is also 1/2 and then a reducer so you can screw in the 1/8 inch schrader....you dont need a manifold if you are just using a schrader valve to air in and out the bags.

tank and compressor....yes get some. right now you need to do it real simple and once you get the hang of what we are talking about then add a compressor and tank. it will be a no brainer once you actually start doing this.

i would say lay all this stuff out on a table. hook up the bag on the table with the fittings and stuff and air it up. then imagine the set up on the truck. then do 1 phase at a time

[made2drag]

Originally Posted by 91Subbed

On your manifold set up the air line by the steering wheel is to both bags and the other by the compressor is to the tank, right?
So where the bags tee'd then ran into one side of the manifold?
So I could connect a tank to the right side and instead of the portable compressor I could run a schrader valve, right?
Hope the is right!!!
Posted via Mobile Device

there you go! exactly right...then use the comp to air up the tank obviously

its alot easier with the stuff in front of you and when your actually hooking it up then trying to imagine it without parts

[91Subbed]

Yes!!! Thanks man I really appreciate all your help and helping me understand how everything works!
Once I'm done with the front and play a Lil it's on to the back!!!
Thanks again!
Posted via Mobile Device

[91Subbed]

Made2drag: I forgot to ask are you using front shocks or do you have drop shocks???
I have my lines I got the schrader valve set up I'm just waiting for the weekend so I can start installing my bags!
Anything I should be looking out for? Did you run into any bumps while tearing down the front?
Thanks again!
Posted via Mobile Device

[made2drag]

Originally Posted by 91Subbed

Made2drag: I forgot to ask are you using front shocks or do you have drop shocks???
I have my lines I got the schrader valve set up I'm just waiting for the weekend so I can start installing my bags!
Anything I should be looking out for? Did you run into any bumps while tearing down the front?
Thanks again!
Posted via Mobile Device

stock shocks still

make sure you use extreme caution when taking the springs out.

you have to use a spring compressor!

i know a guy who's dad's best friend was killed when he took the springs off the wrong way. they are under extreme pressure

in my picture you can see i took the uca nuts off where it bolts to the frame...i did this because the upper spindle ball joint wouldnt come loose even after several bolws with a huge hammer.

make sure to keep your brake line hoses from fully extending so they dont break. other than that, i would say find a thread where someone shows you step by step what to do