700R4 build thread.

[clinebarger]

Look at post #126, Do you have a TCC Shift Valve Bore?

[70's luvr]

Sorry I haven't replied until now. Thanks for the help!

I was able to install the longer TV spring (From BTO) so I'm assuming that means I have a TCC shift valve bore.

[clinebarger]

2 totally different things.

[70's luvr]

My bad..understand. Here's a pick of the same area in my trans as post 126

[70's luvr]

I hate trying to post from my phone! Here's the pic.

[clinebarger]

You have some choices to make., Your trans does have a Converter Shift Valve bore.

Option 1......

I recommend you buy the Trans Go 700-LU lock-up valve kit, This will probably require dropping the Valve Body to remove the roll pin holding the Valve in (Unless the last builder had the forsight to install the roll pin from the bottom)
Then wire it like shown in post #126.

Option 2......

Your trans "Appears" to have a Factory Converter shift Valve train already, Notice the "5" on the end of the Bushing, This indicates a calibration, If it had Dummy plugs.....No stamped numbers would be present.
You could wire it like in post #126 & try it out, But I have no way to know how it will act, It may lock-up in 2nd gear under light throttle, Or it may lock-up after 4th & un-lock to easy with throttle input. Or the Converter Shift TV bushing could be worn out.....That will cause it to unlock-lock-unlock-lock.

Option 3.......

Use the 4th gear pressure switch to lock the converter on top of 4th gear, Wire it like shown in post #149. The 4th gear pressure switch is located next to the 2nd gear Accumulator.

**NOTE** The Converter Shift valve will still be "Active" after the TCC solenoid is closed.....i.e. If the Bushing is worn out it will do the quick lock-unlock scenario. That is why I recommend the TG 700-LU.

[70's luvr]

Thank you soooo much for describing those options! I think I'll start with option #2 and see how it works. I'm pulling the truck apart for a frame off once I get the mechanicals straightened out so can do option#1 then if needed. I'll report back with my results.

[70's luvr]

Hey guys,
Finally got a pressure gauge hooked up to my 700r4. Pressures were as follow with the TV cable hooked up (BTO kit). I will say to get any tension on the TV cable I had to us all of the adjustment allowed. When I use my finger and deflect the cable I immediately get a rise in pressure (In park), but it peaks at 140.

P-110
R-180
N-110
D-110
3-110
2-100
1-100

This is a used trans so rolling the dice I know. What doesn't look right is 1st and 2nd pressures being so low. I haven't even driven it out of the garage yet so no input on how it actually shifts.

[clinebarger]

Your P,N,D4,D3 baseline pressure's is a little high, What is it with the TV unhooked? Your looking for just a few pounds above that at closed throttle, Example....If the reading is 75 psi with it unhooked, You want around 77-78 psi with it hooked up.

Are you using the BTO TV spring? It is important that you do!!

The D1 & D2 pressures are very low, What makes this odd is the Reverse Pressures are OK.....All 3 of these positions use the Reverse Boost Valve to boost Line Pressure. So The Reverse Boost valve is working.

Is your shifter adjusted correctly, As in...Are you sure your actually in 1st/2nd at the trans & not between them.....?

Another possibility is there is a major leak in the Overrun Clutch apply circuit, This Clutch is only ON in D1 & D2.
If this is the case....Don't shift into these 2 ranges 'til it can be fixed.

[70's luvr]

Well this what I found. I am using the longer BTO spring.Wit the tv cable disconnected pressure dropped around 5psi, might have had it a little snug but that's close. Confirmed the linkage is correctly selecting the right gear.

1st -100
2nd-105
3rd-105
D-110
N-100
R-185..but fluctuating wildly 15 pounds either way.
p-105

if it is what you described clinebarger, does the tranny need to come out or is it something that can be fixed with it installed?

Thanks!

[clinebarger]

Originally Posted by 70's luvr

if it is what you described clinebarger, does the tranny need to come out or is it something that can be fixed with it installed?

Thanks!

It all depends where the problem is.....If the last builder tore the lip seals on the Overrun piston....The trans will have to come out.

If it is in the Boost valve system or Valve body/plate/gaskets....It can be fixed with the unit in the truck.

Drive it first (In D4) to see if it Shifts & Down shifts, Then we can diagnose from there. No since in correcting a issue if the trans has other issues!

[70's luvr]

Well got to drive the truck and it has ..issues. It's reluctant to shift out of first. Run it up..no shift. let off gas, reapply gas and it slams into 2nd. same for 2nd gear as let off, back on gas and slow to engage....sigh.

[70's luvr]

I'm guessing at a minimum I have a sticking TV plunger? Should I just go ahead and order the Trans Go 700-LU lock-up valve kit since there's no sense pulling the valve body to free it up only to have it stick again?

[clinebarger]

If the TV Plunger is sticking about 20 good pulls on the TV cable with the engine running will unstick the Plunger.

If the TV Valve is sticking.....Install a TransGo 700 SK-JR kit in the Valve Body.

The TransGo 700-LU is just for lock-up....If you going to have the Valve Body off......Install it for sure!!!

[70's luvr]

Did what you suggested after getting it good and warm. As I'm screwing with it all of a sudden the pressure dropped and I have movement much earlier in the cable pull. Took it for a spin and walla...It shifted..like normal! Pressure is only 60 in Drive/idle now but got up into 4th with it kicking down into 3rd and down shifting like normal. I realize that pressure is now low out of spec but for now I'm just going to enjoy the small victory.

[clinebarger]

Depending on Model, 60 psi being Low is not necessarily true.

[HUSTLESTUFF]

I just finished this incredible tech post. I have one question. I just picked up a 700 R4 core and will be rebuilding it. I have done Chrysler transmissions but no GM. I am installing it behind a GM crate engine in a 72 C20 that will do light towing on flat ground. Can I just get a kit and install it as is or do I need all of the parts you suggest. I like your idea on the amazon kit plus the seal kit along with the Transgo SK 700 and 700-P and filter. As long as everything else checks out can I get by with this? Thanks in advance, Mike

[clinebarger]

Originally Posted by HUSTLESTUFF

I just finished this incredible tech post. I have one question. I just picked up a 700 R4 core and will be rebuilding it. I have done Chrysler transmissions but no GM. I am installing it behind a GM crate engine in a 72 C20 that will do light towing on flat ground. Can I just get a kit and install it as is or do I need all of the parts you suggest. I like your idea on the amazon kit plus the seal kit along with the Transgo SK 700 and 700-P and filter. As long as everything else checks out can I get by with this? Thanks in advance, Mike

You will at least need a new stock Sun Shell, Amazon.com: ACDelco 24228345 GM Original...
Just got done Beta testing the new Alto Hi-Energy Graphite (HEG) Frictions with great success! I have been meaning to update this thread regarding this but forgot.

There is an outfit on Ebay selling complete (I Mean Complete!) rebuild kits with all HEG frictions, Includes a 3-4 "Powerpak" (Able to run 9 3-4's), All bushings, Thrust washers, Red Eagle band, Filter, Seals, & Steels for $173 shipped! http://www.ebay.com/itm/TH700R4-Rebu...3D360673914328

I have bought over 20 of this exact kit from them, 100% happy with the kit. Running a 4L60E version in my Camaro.

[cableguy0]

Originally Posted by clinebarger

You will need at least need a new stock Sun Shell, Amazon.com: ACDelco 24228345 GM Original Equipment Automatic Transmission Reaction Sun Gear Shell: Automotive

Just got done Beta testing the new Alto Hi-Energy Graphite (HEG) Frictions with great success! I have been meaning to update this thread regarding this but forgot.

There is an outfit on Ebay selling complete (I Mean Complete!) rebuild kits with all HEG frictions, Includes a 3-4 "Powerpak" (Able to run 9 3-4's), All bushings, Thrust washers, Red Eagle band, Filter, Seals, & Steels for $173 shipped! http://www.ebay.com/itm/TH700R4-Rebu...3D360673914328

I have bought over 20 of this exact kit from them, 100% happy with the kit. Running a 4L60E version in my Camaro.

Its about time. I never understood selling something as a "KIT" that wasn't near completed and still needed 2 or 3 other "kits" to complete the first one. Its a huge hole in the transmission parts market that someone should fill for every unit.

[HUSTLESTUFF]

Originally Posted by clinebarger

You will at least need a new stock Sun Shell, Amazon.com: ACDelco 24228345 GM Original Equipment Automatic Transmission Reaction Sun Gear Shell: Automotive

Just got done Beta testing the new Alto Hi-Energy Graphite (HEG) Frictions with great success! I have been meaning to update this thread regarding this but forgot.

There is an outfit on Ebay selling complete (I Mean Complete!) rebuild kits with all HEG frictions, Includes a 3-4 "Powerpak" (Able to run 9 3-4's), All bushings, Thrust washers, Red Eagle band, Filter, Seals, & Steels for $173 shipped! http://www.ebay.com/itm/TH700R4-Rebu...3D360673914328

I have bought over 20 of this exact kit from them, 100% happy with the kit. Running a 4L60E version in my Camaro.

Thanks for the advise. I ordered the kit along with the sunshell. I also added molded pistons and the transgo 700 JR. I think that should be enough for now. Any more and the $ benefits to me of the overdrive would start to go out the window beyond this. I will start the rebuild this weekend and make a new post. I still have to figure out all the other things needed like TV cable and what not. Also have question on driveshaft since I need a new carrier bearing and whether or not I should do one piece since I'm staying stock heighth c20. Will build a stand and tools as pictured. Thanks so far and I'm sure I'll have some questions but this tech article is amazing!!! Mike

[schpeen]

I too have a 700R4 mated to a 350 ZZ5 chevy performance crate motor and I just installed the Lokar cables (awesome product). I bought the B&M governor kit with the weights and springs to adjust the WOT shift points. The motor specs say peak HP is 400hp at 5600rpm red line is suppose to be @ 5800.

Where should my shift points at WOT be? 6000? 5800? 5600?

[BADAZ chevy guy]

Now for some TCC wiring. I have some sort of two prong switch attached to the valve body, but NOT screwed into a port. My best guess is a Temperature switch. Can this switch be bypassed, removed, ignored?
If that switch wasn't there I would assume the wiring would be simply power (Red wire) to the TCC solenoid. Jumper (Black wire) to the 4th gear pressure switch. Then the Pressure switch would ground the circuit in 4th gear. But with this "Unknown" switch in between the two, I'm no sure how to proceed.

[clinebarger]

Yes it is the a Temp Switch, It closes at 280 degrees IIRC, It is a fail safe if the trans gets hot, The unit will lock-up in 4th gear no matter if the ECM commands TCC or not.

Eliminate the temp switch & wire it exactly like your second picture shows!!

Tech Tip....Take the Lead with the Black wires off the Temp Switch & Connect it to the 4th gear pressure switch. Cut out the other (Green/Tan) Temp Switch Lead.

Before you put the pan back on.....Test the TCC solenoid & 4th Pressure switch if you haven't already.

[BADAZ chevy guy]

Originally Posted by clinebarger

Yes it is the a Temp Switch, It closes at 280 degrees IIRC, It is a fail safe if the trans gets hot, The unit will lock-up in 4th gear no matter if the ECM commands TCC or not.

Eliminate the temp switch & wire it exactly like your second picture shows!!

Tech Tip....Take the Lead with the Black wires off the Temp Switch & Connect it to the 4th gear pressure switch. Cut out the other (Green/Tan) Temp Switch Lead.

Before you put the pan back on.....Test the TCC solenoid & 4th Pressure switch if you haven't already.

I tested the TCC solenoid before by hitting it with 12v and listening for it to click. Can I check the pressure switch with air? And if so, how much?

[Beaumont@]

Awesome thread clinebarger just finished rebuilding my 700rR and this was very useful.

Upgrades:
corvette servo
.500 boost valve
beast sun shell
3 4 zpack clutches
hardened pump rings
double caged input sprag
transgo 700p separator plate
transgo 700jr shift kit
4l60e 2/4 band
B&M holeshot 2400 stall w/lockup

All going behind a rebuilt vortec 350 w/ comp xr270hr cam and 3.42 rear end. Hopefully all goes well at start up and the damn thing doesn't fry on me