Project 68 k10 LWB..aka "The Hulk"

[First c10]

Originally Posted by DWilbur

I have a CD at home that should show the break lines I will look for it and post if I find the info.

That would be great!! thanks

[RedRoad]

I posted this morning but seems to have disappeared

Some pics from a K20

[First c10]

Great!!! thank you that helps a lot. Where did you get your line from??

Looks like I am going to have a problem with the ORD steering box brace.

Can you take a picture of where the brake lines go to the flex line to the caliper on the frame?
Thanks
Scott

[RedRoad]

I got them from classic industries which I believe are actually inline tube. Ill get some pics shortly

[First c10]

Originally Posted by RedRoad

I got them from classic industries which I believe are actually inline tube. Ill get some pics shortly

I ordered mine from inline tube and thanks for getting the pictures.

[RedRoad]

bit hard to get in there now with the engine in and headers installed.

[First c10]

That's OK I appreciate it.
So after your pictures I started to just piece it together.

[First c10]

Check this out!!!!!
This would have worked great if not for the ORD brace. Looks like I have to do some customizing.

[DWilbur]

Looking good installing the brake lines. I'm thinking about modifying my brace so the lines can fallow the frame up to the front cross member.

[First c10]

I did a little re bending and forgot to take pictures I plan to work on it this weekend. So I will take some pictures

[First c10]

Ok so I connected the brake lines up front. I haven't secured it yet. But what do you guys think will it be ok?

[First c10]

Here's another front crossmember brake line routing.

[First c10]

I also started getting the tank mocked up. Man that looks big!!!

[First c10]

Front of the tank mount

[First c10]

This has me worried. Looks awfully high!!!

[First c10]

Another angle.
I still have an issue with the front away bar. Not sure if it is bent or not. I think I am going to pull it and see if it is bent from the donor burb. If it's not I will have to see if the axle is square. I checked it once and it was good. The joy of building a custom truck!!!

[First c10]

I kind of feel like I am jumping around on different parts of this build. But I can't get the brake lines in until I put the tank in because the rear crossmember for the tank is in front of the stock brake line bracket. So I had to use the donor burb brake line bracket. So I had my son it cut off the burb frame. I can't put the e brake cables in the stock spot because of the tank since I have put rear disc I am just going to go with a custom set of ebrake cables from www.controlcables.com. I talked to Ed and he said a custom set would run down the driver side outside the frame rail. It would be around 150$ What do you guys think of that idea???

[First c10]

Finally got enough loose end completed to get the wheels and tires on. Wow it looks high. I hope it settles a little.

[First c10]

Wow I never noticed how wide the front axle was compared to the rear axle.
Can anyone tell me the part number for there rear lift shocks with 4" lift?. The tuff country's I have I think are wrong becuase I had to collapse the shock to within 2 inches of fully collapsed length to install them. So after the suspension settles and truck is loaded up I will have no compression in the shock remaining. I am hoping tuff country just sent the wrong shock...maybe a 6-8" lift shock. Fronts fit great.

[swamp rat]

I cant give you a part number of perfect length shocks but if there 2" to collapsed then the body is too long, wait until you put the full weight of the cab, bed and engine ect, the springs will settle a bit, now put a load in the back..

Even the shocks i got with my BDS 4" kit were too long, calls to them had them telling me that they use the same shocks for 4", 6" and 8" lift kits.....Really??, i made them take the rears back and i searched what they offered and found a shorter set, i still think the fronts and rears are too long but for now they are liveable at about 4" compression. I think maybe the other lift company's may do the same thing as a cost saving thing? I have pic's in my build of my dilema. One thing tho is Gas charged shocks like mine are a pretty solid ride, if i did it over i'd opt for some Bilstines or other hydraulic shocks for a smoother ride

What i would suggest is to measure the distance from one mount to the other while the frame is jacked up and the full weight of the wheels and axle are hanging below (fully extended) then measure the distance on the ground with the bed cab and body on it (static) figure you need about 5" of travel.

Ya need to find shocks that exceed fully extended by about 1" maybe 2" at most, that will give the shock the shortest body possible and the most compression distance.

[First c10]

Thanks for the info swamp rat.
I looked through the tuff country site and when it comes to our trucks there is a note at the bottom of the page that reads." For 69-72 rears of 4" or more 61301 shocks are to be used". But 61261 are used for 0" to 4" on other trucks. Actually the application for the 61261 reads from 69-98. So I have concluded exactly what you have found measure your own set up and order the shocks accordingly. I am not saying you can't get lucky but best to know this information before you order your lift. I will call tomorrow and get them to exchange them.
If you notice on my above picture the 1 rear shock I put on the shock boot is compressed. The fronts are good. I only compressed the front about 2-1/2"-3" so after the weight of the truck is set the fronts should be in the middle if it's stroke. Joy of a custom truck.
Speaking of that what do you guys think about changing the way the e-brake cable is run? I would like to run them to the driver side outside the frame rail like the newer trucks.

[mjensen]

The truck is looking great!!!

[First c10]

Originally Posted by mjensen

The truck is looking great!!!

Thank you! Can't imagine how many hours are in it. Man they can eat up a lot of time but they are addicting.
I worked on securing the brake line and got the motor mounts bolted up to the motor and chassis.
The AC bracket was hitting so I clearanced it. I am hot sure of the compressor will work in the original truck location but thought I would try.

http://diy4x.com/product.php?product...cat=252&page=1

is the updated link to the 73-87 LS engine mounts since I used the crossmember from a 91 burb

[First c10]

This is what I had to cut off the AC compressor mount

[First c10]

This is what it looks like with the brackets installed. I just needed a little help to install motor. Maybe tomorrow.