Disc Brake Upgrade Reference Thread

[c10hevy]

I grabbed the upper and lower control arms as well as the spindles off a 91 suburban, it is the square body style (looks like 73-87) will these still work? or do i have to go back to the yard?

I drive a 66 gmc

[Captainfab]

Yes those parts will work just fine since they are the same as the '73-'87 components. Did you grab the steering linkage and steering box while you were there?

Originally Posted by c10hevy

I grabbed the upper and lower control arms as well as the spindles off a 91 suburban, it is the square body style (looks like 73-87) will these still work? or do i have to go back to the yard?

I drive a 66 gmc

[LostMy65]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

Yes those parts will work just fine since they are the same as the '73-'87 components.

I just learned this about the Suburbans a few weeks back.
A friend of mine bought a suburban and I guessed the year to be late 80. He said; 'No, it's a 91.
I said; 'are you sure? I now know
Posted via Mobile Device

[Captainfab]

Yep, the Suburbans, Blazers and CrewCabs kept the squarebody thru '91. These are also refered to as the 'V' and 'R' series instead of the earlier 'C' and 'K' series

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

Yep, the Suburbans, Blazers and CrewCabs kept the squarebody thru '91. These are also refered to as the 'V' and 'R' series instead of the earlier 'C' and 'K' series

And if you go into the local parts house, ask for parts for an 87 to compare 'cause you just don't know what you'll get otherwise. Everything I get for the dually (an 89 CC C3500), I have to ask for 87 R30 parts just to make sure I'm getting the square body stuff.

[Captainfab]

I think I need to clarify something. The '88-'91 'V' series is the 4wd, and the '88-'91 'R' series is the 2wd.

[c10hevy]

Thank you, I'm going to go grab the steering linkage and sway bar tomorrow. Captainfab, I will be using you're steering box locator bracket so could you please pm me paypal info?
Posted via Mobile Device

[Captainfab]

PM sent

Originally Posted by c10hevy

Thank you, I'm going to go grab the steering linkage and sway bar tomorrow. Captainfab, I will be using you're steering box locator bracket so could you please pm me paypal info?
Posted via Mobile Device

[Harley1650]

Well, I'm confused...(again) I just ordered a front end kit with McGaughy 2" drop spindles, 1 1/4" rotors. It says I can use original tie rod ends and ball joints. Did I read correctly in the first post that this is not true?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Harley1650

Well, I'm confused...(again) I just ordered a front end kit with McGaughy 2" drop spindles, 1 1/4" rotors. It says I can use original tie rod ends and ball joints. Did I read correctly in the first post that this is not true?

Some aftermarket spindles are configured to be a direct swap & use the original drum brake parts. Other aftermarket spindles are configured for 73-87's which require the specific disc brake parts. All OE (junkyard) swaps using OE spindles require the newer steering stuff and/or adapting the tie-rods to the spindles.

What parts you need depends on what spindles you purchased. If the mfr states you can use the original drum brake parts, then they're prob spindles designed specifically for that application.

[Harley1650]

Thanks Scoti, sometimes too much reading makes me overthink things. Has anyone used Captainfabs steering gear adapter with original tie rod ends and such?

[Harley1650]

Well, one more time. Been looking at power brakes but I have a big block in the 63' and it doesnt look like I'd be able to get the valve covers off with power brakes. Anyone know?

[Harley1650]

By the way, the brake booster is 9" but the guy said he could but an 8 or 7 on it. Does size matter??? lol

[LostMy65]

Originally Posted by Harley1650

Thanks Scoti, sometimes too much reading makes me overthink things. Has anyone used Captainfabs steering gear adapter with original tie rod ends and such?

I believe the 73-87 steering box with captain's adapter will bolt right up with either the original steering linkage or the 73-87 linkage.
Captain usually comes online in the evening pacific time.
He checks these threads regularly and has always had me an answer the same day I post my question. I would be shocked if he doesn't reply to your question by 10pm pacific time.

[Harley1650]

Thanks Lost, I think Captain has me straightened out with that, my mind is working on brake boosters now, hahaha

[SCOTI]

The way I understand it is smaller diameter vac boosters = less overall vacuum accummulation = less overall assist. So, w/a smaller diameter booster, you'd still have more stopping pressure/force available vs other alternatives but it wouldn't be the most. It would prob read something like this.....

*Effective brake pressure/force exerted per ft/lbs of effort applied lowest to highest
Manual drum brakes
Power drum brakes
Manual disc brakes
Power disc w/small single diaphragm booster
Power disc w/small dbl diaphragm booster
Power disc w/Lg. single
Power disc w/Lg. dbl
Hydo-boost

*This is a generalization. Research each option for accurate factual data.

[Captainfab]

Well that depends on how and where your BB is mounted. I have a BB in my '66 Suburban, and I'm running power brakes, using a '72 Impala booster which is 11 or 12" in diameter. I have no problems at all in removing the valve covers. Of course I moved the engine 2" forward from the original location. But that does not affect the location of the booster in relation to the valve covers.

I replied to your PM regarding the steering box and tie rod question.

Originally Posted by Harley1650

Well, one more time. Been looking at power brakes but I have a big block in the 63' and it doesnt look like I'd be able to get the valve covers off with power brakes. Anyone know?

Edit: Here is a pic of the booster installed on my '66 Suburban.

[Captainfab]

Thanks for covering for me

Originally Posted by LostMy65

I believe the 73-87 steering box with captain's adapter will bolt right up with either the original steering linkage or the 73-87 linkage.
Captain usually comes online in the evening pacific time.
He checks these threads regularly and has always had me an answer the same day I post my question. I would be shocked if he doesn't reply to your question by 10pm pacific time.

[LostMy65]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

Thanks for covering for me

Thanks for not making me a liar.

[Captainfab]

Originally Posted by LostMy65

Thanks for not making me a liar.

[Harley1650]

Thanks guys. John, I'll be buying yout steering box adapter soon!

[c10hevy]

I put the entire front suspension from the 1991 box body suburban in my 66 GMC with absolutely no problems, literally a bolt in, one afternoon job, but have stumbled upon a question;

I want to keep the six lug pattern so that I dont have to change wheels and the parts from CPP are 6 lug rotors, is that all i need to keep the 6 lug configuration? there arent any hubs or anything like that, like on newer chevys?

[Captainfab]

As long as that '91 Suburban had the 1-1/4" thick rotors, then all you need is the aftermarket rotors, bearings and seals. The hub and rotors are one unit just like the 5x5 rotors.

Originally Posted by c10hevy

I put the entire front suspension from the 1991 box body suburban in my 66 GMC with absolutely no problems, literally a bolt in, one afternoon job, but have stumbled upon a question;

I want to keep the six lug pattern so that I dont have to change wheels and the parts from CPP are 6 lug rotors, is that all i need to keep the 6 lug configuration? there arent any hubs or anything like that, like on newer chevys?

[c10hevy]

Instead of swapping the entire crossmember from the '91 I just took the a-arms, so my question is how do you connect the large diameter soft brake lines from the '91 and connect them to the 1/4 " '66 hard lines. Can I get a union from home depot or someplace similar?

I also have a question about the brake pushrod:
Since the one off the '91 is too short can I fab up an intermediary connector with a hole on each end and bridge the 1" gap? Or will I run into binding?

-Mike
Posted via Mobile Device

[Captainfab]

The front hard lines on your '66 should be 3/16" in diameter. They should thread right into the later model hoses. That is unless for some reason your hoses are metric. Then you would need a SAE to metric adapter.

When extending the booster pushrod, you can not have 2 pivot points. You will need to cut the eye off of the booster pushrod, and either weld that to a section of your original pushrod, or use a piece of tubing to slide over the two. Then either weld, or cross drill and use either roll pins, or small machine screws.

Originally Posted by c10hevy

Instead of swapping the entire crossmember from the '91 I just took the a-arms, so my question is how do you connect the large diameter soft brake lines from the '91 and connect them to the 1/4 " '66 hard lines. Can I get a union from home depot or someplace similar?

I also have a question about the brake pushrod:
Since the one off the '91 is too short can I fab up an intermediary connector with a hole on each end and bridge the 1" gap? Or will I run into binding?

-Mike
Posted via Mobile Device