All about heaters.

[G8rN@te61]

So is it my understanding from reading this thread that in my 61 with deluxe heater the wire going INTO the box in engine compartment is to a control valve mounted on the heater core. This heater core with valve is not sold by any vender. So basically without it my heater is on full blast but sounds like this is even barely enough in very cold temps. Here in NC Im probably fine since I don't take it out if its snowing which it rarely does here in Charlotte. Looks like there is a vender who can mount it but its hundred of clams which id rather spend on other things.
-Nate

[Captainfab]

If you're talking about the cable that goes into the heater box, then yes that controls the ranco valve which controls the heat output of the heater. If you need a new heater core, you will have to purchase the correct size core for the '64-'66 Deluxe heater and have the tank on that side switched. If the ranco valve is not working or leaking, it can be bypassed or repaired.

[G8rN@te61]

Ok. I have a '61 and theres a non-correct heater core in there now that I wanted to change out to the correct one which I did purchase from car and truck shop but it doesn't have the valve on it. Looks to be pretty expensive to get it put on so Ill just not use it.

[Captainfab]

As far as I know no one makes or sells the correct heater core for a '60-'63 Deluxe heater.

[4thgencreamsicle]

So I got the cage from Brothers and the blower motor from LMC. If I put this together the way it’s SUPPOSED to go, with this little square dude on the shaft first, then the cage, the cage blades rub the box all the way around when installed...bad. But if I remove this, it would fit perfect, I’d just need some washers to take up space on the shaft. How important it that square spacer? Seems like it would keep the plastic from getting worn at the base.

Or do you trim the cage blades? If so, with what? (Leaning towards this one, but not sure an exact o knife is the smartest choice since it’s kinda hard plastic, I’m kinda clumsy, and fingers are important)

Or do I buy a new cage from LMC and they magically match up because they were supposed to be bought together all along?

Help a girl out.

[Asshat]

Not sure if it was answered here, but the motor for the heater has only one post for electrical connection. I presume this is (+) and the motor is grounded through the frame? Or is there a separate ground wire?

[62bagger]

I am putting the recirculating heater back in my 62 and I was wondering if the hot water circulates all the time heating the cab in the summer? I didn't see any bypass valve when I took it out. The heater hoses were disconnected when I got the truck so I am not sure if I have all the parts.

[cwcarpenter98]

Originally Posted by 62bagger

I am putting the recirculating heater back in my 62 and I was wondering if the hot water circulates all the time heating the cab in the summer? I didn't see any bypass valve when I took it out. The heater hoses were disconnected when I got the truck so I am not sure if I have all the parts.

Unless you have a valve to turn the flow off, it will run all the time. On my truck, I had some old valve that was cable actuated with the deluxe heater controls, but I have the recirc heater. It leaked and I couldn't find a replacement, so I put a manual valve in place. After leaving the valve on several times in the summer, I decided to replace the manual valve with a cable actuated valve. It's a metal valve from a 60s F100, but it works well and I don't have to pop the hood to turn the flow on or off. So much nicer that way


Edit to add pics. First is the Ferd valve, second is the controls. The air knob doesn't do anything but sit there and look nice

[62bagger]

Thanks for the info and the picture. I guess ill be looking at a manual valve.

[val1gonzales]

This might help you. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=668084

[AcampoDave]

I put a manual valve on mine too. It's from the hardware store plumbing dept.

[karlbenz]

Originally Posted by AcampoDave

I put a manual valve on mine too. It's from the hardware store plumbing dept.

So you just need one? It doesn't need to circulate?

[AcampoDave]

It's never been a problem. At first I was concerned about which side of the heater to put it on. You know, like perhaps I would be over pressurizing the core or whatever, so I googled it "nine ways 'till Sunday" and came up with no concrete case of anyone harming their heater core by putting a shut off on one side vs. the other. Ten summers later and still good.

[karlbenz]

Originally Posted by AcampoDave

It's never been a problem. At first I was concerned about which side of the heater to put it on. You know, like perhaps I would be over pressurizing the core or whatever, so I googled it "nine ways 'till Sunday" and came up with no concrete case of anyone harming their heater core by putting a shut off on one side vs. the other. Ten summers later and still good.

Thanks

[AcampoDave]

If you do what I did, be cautious about what kind of fitting you thread into your water pump. Pipe nipples are tapered and there's not a lot of metal around the threaded socket of the water pump. Too much torque on the threads can crack the pump as you drive the expanding thread size into the socket. I did use a pipe nipple and teflon tape, but would have preferred an automotive nipple with a uniform thread diameter. Its just that my usual parts store didnt have it in stock when I wanted it, and the pipe nipple was already in my plumbing junk bin. The valve is simply a bronze ball vave rated for water/steam pressure.

[G8rN@te61]

So I just sent all day switching out the radiator, patch welding the cut up heater box to just find out the heater core I purchased for my truck is incorrect. I think I have the deluxe heater as previously stated because I have a hole on top and a hole in front with the cable coming into the box. Wondering which heater core I need to get? I found this recirculating one online at CJ pony parts.

[AcampoDave]

Many have turned to the vendors like LMC but I found one in my local auto parts store where the application said it was a fresh air deluxe. It was close enough that I only had to enlarge the opening for the hose barbs on the cover plate the cover plate a tad with a Dremmel.

Edit: Mine was a "thrift air" originally and I opened the plate to accommodate the deluxe core...see post #190 as he did that too.

[G8rN@te61]

10-4 I guess thats what ill have to do. Although my heater box is different than his as mine is a '61 with the deluxe. I am wondering if I can find one that fits and modify connections with shark bite connectors.

[verdell]

I'm working on what I believe is a '60-'63 Deluxe heater box and trying to figure out how to remove the metal blower fan from the motor? So far I've been able to slide it about 1/4" off the motor shaft but that's it. No set screw or nut to remove. Any ideas from subject matter experts?

[AcampoDave]

I tried getting one off of there myself once too. It was my stock metal one and I wanted to swap it out with the plastic one that came on my new motor. Wouldn't come off so I just went with the new motor as it came. Plastic one is still working great though after many years.