1972 Chevy 4wd Longhorn Project: Never Ending Changes

[1972RedNeck]

Originally Posted by 6BT 56

Ever tried to get a teenager to do ANYTHING ?

Easy there...

[Dieselwrencher]

I hope everyone had a great Thanksgiving! I spent some time re-sizing pics while the wife was out Black Friday shopping last night. A few weeks ago I decided I needed to get this truck to drive again. I've been working at it, but other things keep detouring it. I got the new to it trans cleaned and repainted. I installed my double deep trans pan and installed a port for the temp probe. I had to clean up my Goerend torque converter as it surface rusted from sitting in the box for so long. I installed a new SFI rated flex plate, then bolted the trans in. I also built a new trans mount, resealed and replaced a couple of bearings in the NP205, and got it in.








NP205 before



After





Adapting tcase shifter bracket to RH trans



Trans and Tcase installed





New rear driveshaft done. I need to install it.



I still have to bolt the TC in, make a top bracket for my Lokar trans dipstick, hook up the shift linkage, hook up the TV lever stuff, modify the tcase shift handle, wire the trans and tcase sensor. I'm making a new bracket for my pedal to hydra boost push rod, and need to put the fire wall insulation on and new fuse block on before I put the brake pedal assy in for the last time. Plenty to do.

I shopped around for seat belts and finally pulled the trigger on some from Wesco. Thanks Jud, Vintage Windmills, for the heads up on them in his last build thread.

[jbclassix]

Is that the OE rear output yoke on the t-case? My Dodge yoke looks way different.

[Dieselwrencher]

Originally Posted by jbclassix

Is that the OE rear output yoke on the t-case? My Dodge yoke looks way different.

Yes it is. It is from a 93 1 ton Dodge.

[brimc]

Looks real good. I prefer seeing the cross members that are made this way. To me it looks very tough and strong plus you made it, wasn't bought.
Your exhaust looks tight as they all do with the pass drop transfer case and the fact that the exhaust is on the pass side as well. The trans mount looks like you welded on an exhaust hanger in the couple of pictures. Are you planning on running a mount to the exhaust pipe and still have drive shaft clearance? This is one area of concern in my build.

[duallyjams]

How long is that set up, good thing your truck is a longhorn.

[legendman]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

Adapting tcase shifter bracket to RH trans


.

I need one of those shifter setups. What did it come out of?
I used the setup for a np208 out of my 84 K20 and it doesn't shift well.


Looking good though, very nice.

[Dieselwrencher]

Originally Posted by brimc

Looks real good. I prefer seeing the cross members that are made this way. To me it looks very tough and strong plus you made it, wasn't bought.
Your exhaust looks tight as they all do with the pass drop transfer case and the fact that the exhaust is on the pass side as well. The trans mount looks like you welded on an exhaust hanger in the couple of pictures. Are you planning on running a mount to the exhaust pipe and still have drive shaft clearance? This is one area of concern in my build.

Good eye. The stock dodge auto trans mount has the exhaust hanger bracket built into it. I left it and plan to make a hanger out of 1/2" round stock and we'd it to my exhaust to give it extra support. There will be plenty of clearance for the drive shaft. I hope.

Originally Posted by duallyjams

How long is that set up, good thing your truck is a longhorn.

I'll have to measure it. It is long for sure. So long that I have no front drive shaft from a dodge or Chevy that even come close to working.

Originally Posted by legendman

I need one of those shifter setups. What did it come out of?
I used the setup for a np208 out of my 84 K20 and it doesn't shift well.


Looking good though, very nice.

Thanks. It came from a 93 4x4 dodge cummins with a 518 with a np205.

[Vintage Windmills]

Looking good Ryan, I must have missed it but what trans is this? 47rh?

[Dieselwrencher]

Jud, yes, this is a 47RH. I saved for a year to buy all the parts for this one. It has billet servos, every upgraded piece except a billet sun shell, billet input, goerend transmission valve body, and a stock intermediate shaft. I don't know how hard I'll actually beat on it with the NP205. We'll see.

[72MARIO]

What kind if money would that trans cost to have built ?

[Vintage Windmills]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

I don't know how hard I'll actually beat on it with the NP205. We'll see.

Sounds like a nice trans! So you think the np205 is the weak link now? Is there a stronger case ever except for maybe a T221? I'm talking production 1 ton or smaller vehicles, not stuff like Atlas or HD rockwell.

[ryanroo]

Originally Posted by Vintage Windmills

Sounds like a nice trans! So you think the np205 is the weak link now? Is there a stronger case ever except for maybe a T221? I'm talking production 1 ton or smaller vehicles, not stuff like Atlas or HD rockwell.

there are different kinds of strong depending on what you want from the truck. with the high levels of available torque and possibility of high traction high loads situations(i.e. Ryan recklessly attaches his truck to pulling sled...) it is possible to walk the gears in a 205 and since they are cast iron, the case gives a bow and takes a hike. the more modern aluminum cased, chain drive cases handle the torque better in those circumstances. with that kind of power potential and a suspension that gives no slack, it could make the 205 open its guts to the daylight. for a normal truck i would never fear the 205. they have been ruthlessly beaten for years and they seem to always work.

i didnt realize how hot rod you went on that rh. thatll be fun to drive

[6BT 56]

Looken good . Nice to see some pics up again. That really is a bad ass trans . What trans is in my newly accuired 93 2500 4x4 ? It just came into the shop so i can get to work on it . If my wife gets stuck in the lane now that i took her 4x4 burb away im going to hear abt it.

Keep up the good work .

[1972K20]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

Thanks! Yeah, I did set it in pretty low, but that is because I wanted plenty of clearance for exhaust and around the firewall for the bell housing. My biggest intent for setting it so low is I plan on putting a P-pumped 24v with twin turbos in it before spring. It is in my friend's truck right now until he gets his newly rebuilt 12v fixed. The color is actually chevy orange. It was pretty funny last weekend I had a couple of guys ask what 6 cylinder it was because it was so dang big. As for the water inlet, I have an industrial one that points down going straight out forward of the engine. I have some elbows I am going to weld to it and I have a formed hose that will connect to the radiator. The radiator is another issue. I only have 4 core radiators for 73-87's, and they are too tall to fit right in the 67-72 supports. However, I did set one in there and the hood will shut, so I'm thinking about modifying the stock 4 core mounts to use the later radiator. I have been searching for a stock 4 core with no luck, and don't really have the extra cash to buy one right now. I have to decide how bad I want a D80 in the rear of this, and I'm really leaning on going that direction.

Hey, great job with this build. I've been reading because I'm wanting to do a Cummins swap too.

Can you tell me more about the water inlet you have? I've seen most guys modify the frame rail for it to clear. Can the industrial water inlet that you have be installed on any of these 12V Cummins? I like the idea of it fitting without the added mods to the frame.

[Dieselwrencher]

Originally Posted by ryanroo

there are different kinds of strong depending on what you want from the truck. with the high levels of available torque and possibility of high traction high loads situations(i.e. Ryan recklessly attaches his truck to pulling sled...) it is possible to walk the gears in a 205 and since they are cast iron, the case gives a bow and takes a hike. the more modern aluminum cased, chain drive cases handle the torque better in those circumstances. with that kind of power potential and a suspension that gives no slack, it could make the 205 open its guts to the daylight. for a normal truck i would never fear the 205. they have been ruthlessly beaten for years and they seem to always work.

i didnt realize how hot rod you went on that rh. thatll be fun to drive

Yeah, I went almost all out on this trans. I wanted to be able to take it to the local strip and beat on it and also beat on it on the street. That was the original plan. That plan has been flawed and keeps changing. The NP205 is a band-aid until I do the front air ride. Maybe this truck will get it, maybe it will be the next build?

Originally Posted by 6BT 56

Looken good . Nice to see some pics up again. That really is a bad ass trans . What trans is in my newly accuired 93 2500 4x4 ? It just came into the shop so i can get to work on it . If my wife gets stuck in the lane now that i took her 4x4 burb away im going to hear abt it.

Keep up the good work .

Your 93 more than likely has an A518. It is a 727 with an overdrive basically, with some upgrades. They are non lock up, which is the biggest difference from the 47rh's.

Originally Posted by 1972K20

Hey, great job with this build. I've been reading because I'm wanting to do a Cummins swap too.

Can you tell me more about the water inlet you have? I've seen most guys modify the frame rail for it to clear. Can the industrial water inlet that you have be installed on any of these 12V Cummins? I like the idea of it fitting without the added mods to the frame.

Thanks! I ditched the industrial inlet when I put the 24v in it. The industrial inlet put the lower radiator hose too low and would have required a lot of elbows to get it up over the frame rail. I used a dodge style lower inlet and also modified the frame to use the dodge a/c comp. It is tight but clears. I doubt I would do this again though. I prefer the F700 a/c mount and bracket. I was short on money when I did this one and went with what I had available. When I do the next 67-72 it will probably get an auto world type a/c comp mount and vintage air.

[mcbassin]

Nice work on the mount Ryan. That look like a beast of a setup you have there. Keep the pictures coming.

[ryanroo]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

Yeah, I went almost all out on this trans. I wanted to be able to take it to the local strip and beat on it and also beat on it on the street. That was the original plan. That plan has been flawed and keeps changing. The NP205 is a band-aid until I do the front air ride. Maybe this truck will get it, maybe it will be the next build?

you's crazy. the next one. i tell ya, if this d60 sits around for too long, it'll end up in a trailer headed north, or in some old chevy... haha

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

Thanks! I ditched the industrial inlet when I put the 24v in it. The industrial inlet put the lower radiator hose too low and would have required a lot of elbows to get it up over the frame rail. I used a dodge style lower inlet and also modified the frame to use the dodge a/c comp. It is tight but clears. I doubt I would do this again though. I prefer the F700 a/c mount and bracket. I was short on money when I did this one and went with what I had available. When I do the next 67-72 it will probably get an auto world type a/c comp mount and vintage air.

i know this guy who set his engine real low and made a bunch of crap to solve these issues you speak of. he even has the F700 inlet still wrapped in cosmoline paper hiding somewhere from that long lost dream. ha! besides, that autoworld a/c stuff is less pretty.

[1972K20]

What's different with the F700 inlet? Does the frame rail still have to be modified?

[ryanroo]

this is the bracket. you can see how the bosses for the A/C compressor are above the water inlet. the smaller frieghtliner and bigger F-series trucks that used a 6bt had narrow front rails and this is what they used.

[6BT 56]

Hey Ryan thanks for the info on the trans . I need to know more but don't want to hijack !

On top of the shifter linkage where it rotates on the trans to select the gears there is another lever . I assume kick down ? The cable was off of it just hanging there . I wiggled everything loose, lube up a bit and re attached . Should the kick down lever rebound on its own ? It try's. But not to much. Also,the thing under the exh manifold is a trans fluid warmer ? Piped into a/f it looks like .? Do I really need this ? It also has a cooler up,front . Trans lines are rotted is why I ask . Would like to just run to cooler up front .

Sorry to hijack I will get a thread for this truck soon so I don't have to litter all,over . Lol.

[Dieselwrencher]

Originally Posted by 6BT 56

Hey Ryan thanks for the info on the trans . I need to know more but don't want to hijack !

You're not hijacking, it's ok. On top of the shifter linkage where it rotates on the trans to select the gears there is another lever . I assume kick down ? The cable was off of it just hanging there . I wiggled everything loose, lube up a bit and re attached . Should the kick down lever rebound on its own ? It try's. But not to much. Also,the thing under the exh manifold is a trans fluid warmer ? Piped into a/f it looks like .? Do I really need this ? It also has a cooler up,front . Trans lines are rotted is why I ask . Would like to just run to cooler up front .

Sorry to hijack I will get a thread for this truck soon so I don't have to litter all,over . Lol.

That is the throttle valve for the valve body. It is extremely important to have it hooked up and adjusted correctly. Yes, it springs back sort of on its own. They usually have a spring coming from a bracket on a bell housing bolt to return it. Without this cable hooked up, you can burn your trans up. As throttle increases, the tv valve increases trans pressure.

That big cooler is a torque converter heat exchanger. It's purpose is to help warm the trans to operating temp in the colder temps, and help cool the torque converter in warmer seasons. I've ditched many and added a large external cooler in front of the radiator and been just fine.

[6BT 56]

Hey Ryan. Thanks for the info . The spring pulls the lever towards the bell housing ? I will look again but i thought the cable also was pulling the lever towards the bell housing ? Was the spring on the back end of the lever ? Thus actually pulling he lever and cable towards the back of the truck ? I'm going to go over and look at the v rig thread and see if you had any pics there.

Thanks again for the help. Much appreciated

[Dieselwrencher]

Originally Posted by 6BT 56

Hey Ryan. Thanks for the info . The spring pulls the lever towards the bell housing ? I will look again but i thought the cable also was pulling the lever towards the bell housing ? Was the spring on the back end of the lever ? Thus actually pulling he lever and cable towards the back of the truck ? I'm going to go over and look at the v rig thread and see if you had any pics there.

Thanks again for the help. Much appreciated

I think you're correct. The 518's TV lever is pulled from rear of trans to front of trans. The 47rh's are the opposite. My spring info would be wrong for you. I'll look at the last 518 I have tomorrow and get back to you.

[6BT 56]

Thank you.