1971 K10 Stepside - Getting a Roller Roadworthy

['68OrangeSunshine]

Pat, Was your '71 K/10 Stepside originally an Air Force truck? The darker metallic blue suggests that to me. But internet colors get distorted.

[pjmoreland]

Originally Posted by '68OrangeSunshine

Pat, Was your '71 K/10 Stepside originally an Air Force truck? The darker metallic blue suggests that to me. But internet colors get distorted.

Unfortunately I know next to nothing about the history of this truck. The original paint was dark olive, and now it's covered in gray primer. One bed fender and the interior are still green.

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by pjmoreland

Unfortunately I know next to nothing about the history of this truck. The original paint was dark olive, and now it's covered in gray primer. One bed fender and the interior are still green.

Quick reply! I was about to edit, since I backtracked and pulled up the SPID. While the OEM color was Olive, the SPID looks commercial, as Gov't trucks had a government property placque riveted inside the Glove Box and often no SPID.
And the Air Force never ''borrows'' trucks from the Army.
[Only the Marine Corps has a 'tradition' of assimilating vehicles from other branches -- usually when they ain't looking.]

[pjmoreland]

Originally Posted by '68OrangeSunshine

Quick reply! I was about to edit, since I backtracked and pulled up the SPID. Whie the OEM color was Olive, the SPID looks commercial, as Gov't trucks had a government property placque rivited inside the Glove Box and often no SPID.
And the Air Force never ''borrows'' trucks from the Army.
[Only the Marine Corps has a 'tradition' of assimilating vehicles from other branches -- usually when they ain't looking.]

Interesting stuff. I've seen a few retired military 67-72 trucks for sale on eBay. Mime is definitely commercial.

[pjmoreland]

I disassembled the front hubs today with the intention of replacing the bearings and seals. Unfortunately, one of the hubs needs to be replaced because at some point a bearing spun in it and wore a groove. I have a lead on a replacement.

I did go ahead with installation of the axle shafts, spindles and dust shields. I also installed new axle vent hoses and vent caps. Filled the differentials with fluid. Also worked on a large crease in the passenger side front fender and adjusted the hood so that it latches now.

[pjmoreland]

Here's the hub that got damaged by a spun bearing.

[pjmoreland]

More photos

[CUSTOM/10]

Hey Patrick, there are 2 different style hubs & spindles . Large bearing and small bearing. I believe yours look to be small bearing. You can use either but they have to be used as pairs, ( spindle & hub ) both large or both small. The outer bearings are the same, the inner bearing ( the one you spun ) is the difference. So keep that in mind when your sourcing parts.
If you run into trouble l have some small bearing hubs & spindles.
Gary

[pjmoreland]

Originally Posted by CUSTOM/10

Hey Patrick, there are 2 different style hubs & spindles . Large bearing and small bearing. I believe yours look to be small bearing. You can use either but they have to be used as pairs, ( spindle & hub ) both large or both small. The outer bearings are the same, the inner bearing ( the one you spun ) is the difference. So keep that in mind when your sourcing parts.
If you run into trouble l have some small bearing hubs & spindles.
Gary

Thank you for the heads up!

[pjmoreland]

The spindle measures 1.779" at the inner bearing location.

The inner bearing O.D. is 3.063".

[1970cstblazer]

Here is info right from the parts book:

Note: 1971 & 1972 would be the same as 1973-77 1st design.

[pjmoreland]

Originally Posted by 1970cstblazer

Here is info right from the parts book:

Note: 1971 & 1972 would be the same as 1973-77 1st design.

Thank you. So a 2" spindle diameter would indicate 2nd design

[CUSTOM/10]

Go by the measurements, you never know what may have been swapped in there by a previous owner. I have also seen left over prior year parts use on the next year.

[CUSTOM/10]

1970cstblazer is correct on the bearing years, it was the axle shaft size that changed in 72.

[pjmoreland]

Did some rust repair on the passenger side inner fender. The driver side inner fender had been mutilated to make room for the misaligned steering column because of the body lift, so I bought a replacement for that side. I chopped a piece off of the mutilated one and welded it into the passenger side. It isn't pretty, but it is functional, and it will be hidden behind the battery.

[1970cstblazer]

Nice save!

[pjmoreland]

Originally Posted by 1970cstblazer

Well, I was incorrect on this issue after doing some research.

Here is the factory paperwork from the NOS GM 361098 drag link kit I used on my 1970 Blazer. When I bought it 3 years ago, the instruction sheet was missing, and I copied what was already there on the Blazer..



Note that it states the the steering rod must be assembled with long end forward.

Board member IronCanine's current 1970 K20:



Looks like I will be correcting that this afternoon...

I keep thinking about this issue of the swapped drag link tie rod ends. One thing I just noticed is that Moog lists the longer one as the rear and the shorter as the front.

[pjmoreland]

Originally Posted by 1970cstblazer

Nice save!

Thank you. One odd thing is that the three screw holes on the front lip of the inner fender are not evenly spaced, so I will have to redrill the center hole.

[1970cstblazer]

Originally Posted by pjmoreland

I keep thinking about this issue of the swapped drag link tie rod ends. One thing I just noticed is that Moog lists the longer one as the rear and the shorter as the front.

Odd..

I would trust GM's guidance on this versus Moog. Moog USED to be the gold standard of the aftermarket suspension parts realm, but I have experienced some QC issues with their parts and therefore refuse to use them. This is why I spent the longer dollar on all NOS GM suspension parts for the Blazer. The fit and metallurgy are known and proven.

Case in point, the original ball joints and tie rod ends on my 70 Blazer were still tight after 53 years and 93k miles of borderline abuse. Unfortunately, they suffered pitting and corrosion, making them look like crap. Mom and dad have lived on the same substandard dirt roads since 1970, so it had to endure all of that.

[pjmoreland]

I got up at 4am this morning and spent a total of about six hours driving today, so I felt like just sitting around when I got home. I wanted to get at least some time in on the truck though, so I wire wheeled the inner fender and painted it. I sprayed the bottom of it with rubberized undercoating.

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by pjmoreland

I got up at 4am this morning and spent a total of about six hours driving today, so I felt like just sitting around when I got home. I wanted to get at least some time in on the truck though, so I wire wheeled the inner fender and painted it. I sprayed the bottom of it with rubberized undercoating.

Should last a long time and resist sulphuric acid corrosion.

[pjmoreland]

Originally Posted by '68OrangeSunshine

Should last a long time and resist sulphuric acid corrosion.

I hope so.

[pjmoreland]

I measured the thickness of my rotors. One measures 1.250 and the other measures 1.230. Seems odd that they are that much different. Anyway, the minimum is 1.215, and new they were 1.285, so one is down to 50% and the other is at 21%. I'm just going to replace both of the rotors. I pressed out the studs and freed my one good hub from the rotor. I should be getting the replacement hub for the other side early next week.

[1970cstblazer]

When I replaced the rotors on my 1970, I was able to source the 12 studs on Ebay. I did not want to use the currently available Dorman pieces.

Raysbestos 5020b, GM 3995841, Wagner BD60908

[pjmoreland]

Originally Posted by 1970cstblazer

When I replaced the rotors on my 1970, I was able to source the 12 studs on Ebay. I did not want to use the currently available Dorman pieces.

Raysbestos 5020b, GM 3995841, Wagner BD60908

Thank you for the part numbers. I ordered 12 of the Wagner units off eBay. The studs I removed are all slightly tweaked from being pressed out, so they definitely need to be replaced.