Removing body from the frame

[Trifelynn]

Ok, so my first major goal is to have the body taken off, so that I can have the frame powdercoated. The guys at the powdercoating shop said that I needed to have the frame bare...which is going to be a LOT of work, getting every single thing off the frame...but, first and foremost, I need the body off.
I am concerned, because I don't have anything to take the complete tub off in one piece...and this is where my question comes in. What is the easiest way to do that? As you can see the rear quarter panel needs work anyways...would it be wise to cut it up, and then re-weld it? Or do I HAVE to take it off in one piece to remain structureally(sp is bad) sound?

[Trifelynn]

TTT...with a please help added

[meathead95]

i personally would fix the rust before i attempted to take the body off to keep it from falling apart.

[Gee_Emm]

You could split it in two pieces, it all depends on how rusted it is. Once you start taking it apart you will find alot more rust then you thought was there. It also depends on how good of a job you want to do. Do you want it to just look good to the average joe or do you want every single piece of metal to look like it did when it came from the factory.. If you split the cab apart from the bed then you should brace the cab before taking it apart. If you can find 4 or 6 buddies you could take it off in one piece.

When you take your frame in to get coated make sure that every single piece that can come off is off, including the front cross member, if you leave stuff bolted on rust tends to peak out from underneath the parts you left on.

[donkey69]

I had good luck leaving the top on,removing the front clip and doors....then had four "come-alongs" attached to the rafters in the shop,one on each corner-then slowly ratcheting each corner up. Raised it just enough to roll the frame out from under. If you don't have access to a shop-a guy might try using a jack and blocks to lift the body enough to roll the frame out-but be sure the blocks/stand will not tip or slip on you!
Have'nt got to floor rust repair yet,but agree....keeping the body on the frame for repairs sounds like the way to go!

[mokie]

The best way is to get a cherry picker (strong enough). I bought 2 chains 4' feet long, 4 long screws 2" inch long, w/4 washers from Hardware store. I bolted the screws to the seat holes. I put the cherry picker through the window (either side fine). I myself and another guy holding the front end and my wife another lady moving the cherry picker. There was some other guys helping us direct it on (but didn't help lift). Just trying to let you know how easy it was for us take the body off. My first attempt was a fork lift THAT WAS STUPID. Also, I would fix the rust before switch it will bend.

[Trifelynn]

So, for this year blazers, i should take a different approach than other restorers? Everything I have read, I have read that you start with the frame, and work your way up...

I should change that around to do the tub work first? Leave the tub on the frame...get all the rust repair done...then take everything off and do the frame once the body is all secure...?

Hmm...this changes things a little...I don't mind doing it that way, but it is just not what I was going to do...

Is this what you are suggesting?

[mastercraftkpk]

This is a GREAT example of the true value of first hand knowledge. Yes, the books, articles, etc.... say to start with the frame first. In this case "frame first" is bad advice. Here's why.

If the rust is as bad as it looks, you will save yourself a LOT of time in the future if you make the tub stable by repairing all major rust and other damage in structurally important areas BEFORE you take it off of the frame. If you DO, you will have an easier job of getting the tub off and putting it back on. If you DO NOT, you will likely have the tub come off in several pieces while causing even more damage in the process.

Much of the tub repair may be done off of the frame, but ONLY if the tub is structurally sound. If it is not, you will later find that your tub does not lay correctly on your frame and things like door clearances will be impossible to make right without re-doing your tub work.

Most restorers use some tubing welded from side to side and across to support tub components and add rigidity to the tub before it is removed from the frame.

[Trifelynn]

Thanks a bunch...and I am so glad this board is here, if not, who knows what would have happened to my blazer

Step one then, is to get all the pieces to repair the rust on the tub...have it
fixed, and primered...then I will work with the chassis...

thanks again

[Trifelynn]

HA!!!

So, I made some phone calls today, to find a body shop, that might be able to help me with step #1...From what I have learned...there isn't anyone in my area that does that kind of work...they try to stick with accident work, because it is better money

I would do it myself...but 1) I don't have a shop...and 2) I have never welded in my life...

So, now, I need to do some more research, and figure something out

[Alexis]

Originally Posted by Trifelynn

HA!!!

So, I made some phone calls today, to find a body shop, that might be able to help me with step #1...From what I have learned...there isn't anyone in my area that does that kind of work...they try to stick with accident work, because it is better money

This is my problem in my area. reason i decided to do the sheetmetal myself. I'm going out to the valley to have my truck paint unless i somehow find a good shop in my area. Most shops around here are quick to do the least amount of work for as much money as possible.

[mastercraftkpk]

If you can take your time, learning to weld the bodywork is not difficult. However, you will need to monopolize the garage for a year and you will need to drop about $2K on welder, equipment, and body parts.

Body shops do not want to do this kind of work because it is more time consuming than fixing fender benders. Those shops that do this kind of work will charge you a lot of $$$$.

[LUV2XCLR8]

I FEEL FOR YA ON THE BODY SHOP SCENE, "GQ" IS DAMN NEAR PERFECT,
BUT I STILL NEED TO GET HER PAINTED, AND THERE IS 1 OR 2 LIL SPOTS
THAT I WOULD LIKE GONE OVER, HAVE NOT DRIVEN IT FOR A ESTIMATE
YET, BUT FOR PAINT JOBS I HAVE BEEN QUOTED $2500.00 - $15000.00

( ESTIMATES WERE FOR AS FOLLOWS SINGLE COLOR W / NO BODY WORK )