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02-23-2005, 07:04 PM | #1 |
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Location: Chapin, SC
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Changing out a starter on a 305??
Anyone changed out the starter on a 305 and is it much of a job? Any special tools required? I also have headers on this 305...will they be in the way?
.........also, whats a good place to get a reman. or new starter for the 305??? THX all!! |
02-23-2005, 07:47 PM | #2 |
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Location: Bakersfield
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It's very simple to do. Just pay close attention on how the current shims are placed and do the saem with the new starter. The headers MAY be in the way. Depends on what headers you have.
I have always got my starters from NAPA. |
02-23-2005, 08:03 PM | #3 |
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A starter can be heavy. If you have an air tool it will be a little easier.
Just hold it with one hand and remove the bolts with the other hand. Before you remove the starter make sure you unhook the battery and the wires at the starter. Its a very simple job, even laying in your driveway. As far as tools, just your basic wrenches, sockets, ratchet. Along with paying close attention to the shims, make sure you note how the wires are hooked up. Some forget where the wires are supposed to go. Never hurts to write it down or take a digi pic before taking stuff apart. I never had to use shims on mine, the 305 or 350. How common is it to use shims?
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02-23-2005, 08:08 PM | #4 |
86 chevy k-10
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: nashua, nh
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changing the starter is easy, headers make it a pain, i have headers on my 350, had to remove them to get new starter in.... always remember remove the neg. battery cable before doing this....
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02-23-2005, 08:59 PM | #5 | |
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Quote:
You sure? ........ I wish I knew what header is on here----from previous owner...they are long (er) tubes I guess, look like a hedman or hooker I think.....go past the starter to the collectors.........there is room but looks like there is either some brake lines behind the headers too or maybe fuel lines???? Don't know, but they may be what will keep me from doing this with the headers hooked up........Oh man!!! I hope I don't have too----looks like a pretty straight forward job otherwise....THANKS for all the comments. |
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02-23-2005, 09:22 PM | #6 |
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i can drop mine with out dropping the headers...
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02-23-2005, 09:28 PM | #7 |
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What kind of headers are on yours? Short tube or long tube kind? (I am not an expert here----I know mine are definitely not short tubes....)......
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02-23-2005, 11:06 PM | #8 |
95 extended cab sportside
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Location: Clinton, Iowa western.
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Mine was easy. I did it a couple of times. Working around the headers on mine that was the problemn and then the tranny lines as well. later 30 to 45 mins if that
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02-23-2005, 11:16 PM | #9 |
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THX all!!!! I sure hope I can get around the headers......BTW, anybody recommend anyplace else other than NAPA for a new starter??
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02-23-2005, 11:54 PM | #10 |
Right turn Clyde
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KOI autoparts depending on where you are located. I ended up getting one from autozone its lasted 4 years so far.
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02-24-2005, 12:54 AM | #11 |
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Keep a close eye on the shims BUT Do not depend on the fact that the last starter and the new starter will fit the same. There as many different fitments in the starters as there are starters. If you go to the GM shop manuals, there is even instructions on how the shops can shave the starter housings to get them to fit. Put the new starter onto the motor and then engage the starter drive with the flywheel teeth. use a "BIG" paper clip as a tool (approximately .020 of an inch) gauge the gap between the starter drive tooth and the bottom of the flywheel tooth valley. If you are to tigh then adjust shims on the inside or outside hole until the fitting is right. If your are to loose then try the shims to get the starter to move closer. Most starters have instructions in their box.
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02-24-2005, 01:43 AM | #12 | |
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02-24-2005, 01:53 AM | #13 |
yeller
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You can get shims from any auto parts store.
I had Hooker full length headers on Yeller when it was small block powered, I was able to remove and re-install the starter many times without having to unbolt the headers. It was tight, but still do-able.
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02-24-2005, 04:55 AM | #14 |
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NA, should be able to do them with the headers on hopefully. Makes it alot harder but it still is possible. Did you get it done yet?
-Later
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02-24-2005, 05:07 AM | #15 |
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I'm getting the idea that you are not really strong on what you need to do on this starter thing. I would first try a shop manual before you start and then I would look at the starter really good before you tear it apart. Changing a starter with headers can be done,BUT if you don't have the right small sockets or wrenches to get the wires off of the solenoid, you are going to have a hard time doing it. Those connections are on the top side of the starter and are hard to reach if you are not familiar with what you are doing. Taking the starter loose and dropping it down to where you can take the wires off is not always a solution (as a matter of fact hardly ever). I finally went to after market performance starters to get more room and to eliminate the header heat soak problem (best thing I ever did).
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02-24-2005, 05:41 AM | #16 | |
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02-24-2005, 05:49 AM | #17 |
Parts and more parts
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Yep, that 's the place. Got mine through Summit Racing, Powermaster starter, since you have internet, sign on to Powermaster's website and decide what will fit your truck best. You need to have an idea which bolt pattern you have on your starter. There are two of them and then you need to decide what you want. This company sends the new bolts and shims with the starter, as well as instructions. By the way the wires connect on the lower side of the Powermaster starter that I just put in, really simplifies things with headers.
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02-24-2005, 05:58 AM | #18 |
ureckmefixit2@cox.net
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It's no sweat woody96 just get under there and do it. Hay you were supost to call me. You must have got your door henges done. (?) Matt.
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02-24-2005, 07:16 AM | #19 | |
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