Anyone replaced frame rivets? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

86SILVERADO · 06-24-2005, 10:18 PM

I want to pull my front spring mounts and clean up the frame a bit but I want to rivet it back together as opposed to bolting it. Anybody replaced the rivets before. Wondering what type of rivet and if I can buy or rent a tool to install them.

cdowns · 06-24-2005, 10:58 PM

the spring mounts are part of the front crossmember(bolt in) and not riveted to the frame

86SILVERADO · 06-24-2005, 11:03 PM

Talking about the front leaf spring mounts in the one ton. The rears (where the shackle is) are fine but for some reason the frame is getting a little crusty under the front hangers.

fatfords · 06-24-2005, 11:51 PM

Unless you're just a stickler for being "all original", I'd use grade 8 fasteners tightened with the appropriate torque. If you're set on using rivets, try this place
http://www.bigflatsrivet.com/index.html
or any place like McMaster-Carr.
Good Luck!

Fred T · 06-25-2005, 02:34 PM

They are a stock, mild steel rivet that you can usually buy at a hardware store. The problem is installing them. They take a big hydraulic squeeze gun, not something you can rent in most places. Another way to install them is with a rivet head for an air chisel, but you have to have the rivet heated to the color orange to drive them.

I would drill the rives out to the next larger bolt size and use either a grade 5 or 8 bolts. The rivet is a little bit stronger than a grade 2 bolt. The factory uses them because they are cheaper than bolts.

purple gas · 06-26-2005, 10:40 AM

I would think a PROPORLY installed gr-8 bolt would be way safer & stronger than an IMPROPORLY intalled rivet any day. If you bolt it, you know when it's tight.

cadiac · 06-26-2005, 11:40 AM

Grade 8 bolts with self locking nuts -won't go anywhere, -quite StRoNg.

**pjmoreland** · 06-26-2005, 11:57 AM

The nice thing about rivets is that they expand inside the holes so that the two pieces of metal cannot slide relative to each other.

Sweet72 · 06-26-2005, 12:38 PM

Quote from frame repair section of my 72 10-30 series truck service manual:
Wherever rivets or failed bolts are replaced, bolt hole must be as near the O.D. of the bolt as possible to prevent bolt from working or wearing. Drill out and line ream hole (or holes) to the bolt O.D.

86SILVERADO · 06-26-2005, 11:01 PM

Thanks for all the replies. I guess it sounds like I will have to bolt it up. Not that fanatical about a stock look but I do weekly haul never more than the gvw of the truck of course

so I was hoping to avoid another 12 nuts and bolts that I have to worry about putting a wrench on every now and then.

**kwmech** · 06-26-2005, 11:22 PM

The factory rivets seem to be 10mm in size. When I do frame mods I drill the hole out to 7/16'' which is a few thou larger. Grade 8 fine thread bolts, flat washers, no lock washers, (sometimes they break) and a type 'C' nut, which is a locking pinch nut. I then torque them down to 70 lbs. Never in 15 years has one come loose. If I move spring hangars, I put small welds on the upper ears.

garold99 · 06-27-2005, 01:05 AM

I had some rivets I had to replace in my frame. I air chisled the head then drilled and punched them out. Then I tapped the hole so the bolt screwed into the frame tight, then torqued a nut down on the other side of the bolt. Havent had a problem with it and that was around 6 years ago.

MOTHERTRUCKERS · 06-27-2005, 07:47 AM

I have the correct rivets in stock, we made a tool out of bar steel to fit our air chisel with the correct cove to shape the rivets backside and use a buck plate made from 1 inch steel held in place with bar clamps. It's a 2 man job and the rivet has to be cherry red and set within 15 seconds to fully fill the holes void.

nu2-72 · 06-27-2005, 03:41 PM

Bought mine from Mothertruckers and did the air tool thing. Worked great.

jamal · 06-27-2005, 05:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fatfords

Unless you're just a stickler for being "all original", I'd use grade 8 fasteners tightened with the appropriate torque. If you're set on using rivets, try this place
http://www.bigflatsrivet.com/index.html
or any place like McMaster-Carr.
Good Luck!

I needed that site too, thanks for the info.

06-24-2005, 10:18 PM	#1
86SILVERADO Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Hills of Western Mass Posts: 626	Anyone replaced frame rivets? I want to pull my front spring mounts and clean up the frame a bit but I want to rivet it back together as opposed to bolting it. Anybody replaced the rivets before. Wondering what type of rivet and if I can buy or rent a tool to install them. __________________ 86 Silverado C10 back to 305 power! 67 C30 Dually Dump, with 350 transplant, Rockhauler 05 Duramax 3500 "If at first you don't succeed, try a bigger hammer" Member of the 1-Ton club!

06-24-2005, 10:58 PM	#2
cdowns Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: daytonabeach Posts: 22,956	the spring mounts are part of the front crossmember(bolt in) and not riveted to the frame __________________ 71c-10 350/2004r/4:11 lowered3/4 longbed/dead by hurricane MEANING OF DEATH::::: SOMEBODY ELSE GETS YOUR STUFF DONT BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU THINK TAKE MY ADVISE;I DON'T USE IT ANYWAY

06-24-2005, 11:03 PM	#3
86SILVERADO Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Hills of Western Mass Posts: 626	Talking about the front leaf spring mounts in the one ton. The rears (where the shackle is) are fine but for some reason the frame is getting a little crusty under the front hangers. __________________ 86 Silverado C10 back to 305 power! 67 C30 Dually Dump, with 350 transplant, Rockhauler 05 Duramax 3500 "If at first you don't succeed, try a bigger hammer" Member of the 1-Ton club! Last edited by 86SILVERADO; 06-24-2005 at 11:10 PM.

06-24-2005, 11:51 PM	#4
fatfords Registered User Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: DFW, TX Posts: 350	Unless you're just a stickler for being "all original", I'd use grade 8 fasteners tightened with the appropriate torque. If you're set on using rivets, try this place http://www.bigflatsrivet.com/index.html or any place like McMaster-Carr. Good Luck! __________________ '56 F-100 (w/all GM stuff) Lookin' for another parts chaser! '05 GMC crew cab

06-25-2005, 02:34 PM	#5
Fred T Cantankerous Geezer Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Bel Aire, KS Posts: 6,264	They are a stock, mild steel rivet that you can usually buy at a hardware store. The problem is installing them. They take a big hydraulic squeeze gun, not something you can rent in most places. Another way to install them is with a rivet head for an air chisel, but you have to have the rivet heated to the color orange to drive them. I would drill the rives out to the next larger bolt size and use either a grade 5 or 8 bolts. The rivet is a little bit stronger than a grade 2 bolt. The factory uses them because they are cheaper than bolts. __________________ Fred There is no such thing as too much cam...just not enough engine.

06-26-2005, 10:40 AM	#6
purple gas Registered User Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: saskatoon, planet earth Posts: 696	I would think a PROPORLY installed gr-8 bolt would be way safer & stronger than an IMPROPORLY intalled rivet any day. If you bolt it, you know when it's tight. __________________ I got a bench seat baby, you don't have to sit over there.

06-26-2005, 11:40 AM	#7
cadiac Registered User Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Wichita, Kansas 67212 Posts: 257	Grade 8 bolts with self locking nuts -won't go anywhere, -quite StRoNg.

06-26-2005, 11:57 AM	#8
pjmoreland Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: CA Posts: 6,068	The nice thing about rivets is that they expand inside the holes so that the two pieces of metal cannot slide relative to each other.

06-26-2005, 12:38 PM	#9
Sweet72 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Alexandria, VA Posts: 1,534	Quote from frame repair section of my 72 10-30 series truck service manual: Wherever rivets or failed bolts are replaced, bolt hole must be as near the O.D. of the bolt as possible to prevent bolt from working or wearing. Drill out and line ream hole (or holes) to the bolt O.D. __________________ '72 GMC SWB C1500 Custom, frame-off in progress. 383 SBC, 9:1CR, Comp Cams XE262H, Scat internal balanced crank, Eagle SIR 6" rods, Keith Black dish pistons, Dart Iron Eagle 72/180 heads, Weiand Stealth intake, Stewart stage I water pump, Holley 4bbl vac sec, TH350 with B&M Shift Improver Kit. 12 bolt positraction.

06-26-2005, 11:01 PM	#10
86SILVERADO Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Hills of Western Mass Posts: 626	Thanks for all the replies. I guess it sounds like I will have to bolt it up. Not that fanatical about a stock look but I do weekly haul never more than the gvw of the truck of course so I was hoping to avoid another 12 nuts and bolts that I have to worry about putting a wrench on every now and then. __________________ 86 Silverado C10 back to 305 power! 67 C30 Dually Dump, with 350 transplant, Rockhauler 05 Duramax 3500 "If at first you don't succeed, try a bigger hammer" Member of the 1-Ton club! Last edited by 86SILVERADO; 06-26-2005 at 11:02 PM.

06-26-2005, 11:22 PM	#11
kwmech Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Colfax-California Posts: 8,679	The factory rivets seem to be 10mm in size. When I do frame mods I drill the hole out to 7/16'' which is a few thou larger. Grade 8 fine thread bolts, flat washers, no lock washers, (sometimes they break) and a type 'C' nut, which is a locking pinch nut. I then torque them down to 70 lbs. Never in 15 years has one come loose. If I move spring hangars, I put small welds on the upper ears.

06-27-2005, 01:05 AM	#12
garold99 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Moore, Oklahoma Posts: 129	I had some rivets I had to replace in my frame. I air chisled the head then drilled and punched them out. Then I tapped the hole so the bolt screwed into the frame tight, then torqued a nut down on the other side of the bolt. Havent had a problem with it and that was around 6 years ago.

06-27-2005, 07:47 AM	#13
MOTHERTRUCKERS Registered User Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: BRADENTON FLA Posts: 3,269	I have the correct rivets in stock, we made a tool out of bar steel to fit our air chisel with the correct cove to shape the rivets backside and use a buck plate made from 1 inch steel held in place with bar clamps. It's a 2 man job and the rivet has to be cherry red and set within 15 seconds to fully fill the holes void. __________________ Rest in Peace Ed. Thanks for all the good times.

06-27-2005, 03:41 PM	#14
nu2-72 Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Amazonia, Mo. USA Posts: 2,821	Bought mine from Mothertruckers and did the air tool thing. Worked great. __________________ 72 3/4 4x4 350 4spd 72 3/4 4x4 350 auto 2004 Duramax Silverado 4x4 2006 Duramax Crew cab 4x4 2010 Harley Ultra Limited 2011 Harley Street Glide

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