'84 Silverado Ball Joints

[woodyjim]

I've been off the board for a while and I've missed seeing what everyone's up to. Busy, busy, busy... Anywaaaay! I have a little problem I need some help with. I carried my '84 Silverado in for some new tires and an alignment because the outside 2 inches of my front tires was bald. Turns out I need some ball joints. I trust these guys but can't afford the bill right now. Can anyone tell me if this is something I can do myself, what parts I need, special tools, etc? Sure would appreciate any help. Thanks guys!!!

[cutter61]

ball joints are pretty easy-grab a manual and a "pickle" fork for ball joints-grease gun and your set-try aligning yourself or take into a shop-about 50 bucks in my area

[cutter61]

also type "ball joint removal" in search forums-good post already posted-good luck

[Slonaker]

The uppers, if they have never been replced before, will require that you chisel, drill, grind, or something to get the rivets out. On mine we ground the heads off with a grinder, then hammered on the rivets with a punch to drive them through. The new ones bolt in.

On the lowers, they are pressed in. The best way is to borrow a press from an auto parts store and use it to press the old ones out and the new ones in. You can also buy the press at Harbor Freight for about $50, but why spend the money?

There are good instructions for removing them on 73-87.com. A pickle fork might be helpful for removing them from the spindle, but is usually not necessary. You can usually loosen the nut a little, smack the spindle on the side with a BFH, and use the force of the spring to pop it loose.

Be careful removing the springs. You'll need a spring compressor or a floor jack. Be very careful with the springs, they can hurt you very badly if you let them get away from you.

Slonaker

EDIT: Jberkley made me realize that I should have said my comments were for a 2WD truck. If you have a 4X4, I don't know anything about those.

[eagle23]

Did they happen to mention if the inner control arm bushings are good or not? Reason I ask is that imo if you're going in as deep as the balljoints you're most of the way there. If the rubber bushings are bad, you may want to do them too. They don't have to be bad just because the balljoints are. Balljoints are supposed to get greased and often don't, while the bushings aren't meant to be. And to do the bushings, you have to pull the control arms.

You can look at them yourself; if they're egg-shaped (eccentric) they're worn. If not, keep rollin' and only do the joints.

Just a thought.

[jberkeley]

i am still in the process of changing my ball joints, it's a k-10....the rust was so bad that everything has been replaced... the entire front end... i did get a price for the ball joints from a shop labor was around 400.00.. so i decided to do it myself. what a pain...like i said rust!!!! but at least i did it myself, and for about 200.00 in parts i saved a lot, even replaced the brakes, bearings,seals,locking hubs (thanks crosby).. i'm glad i like this stuff and had all the correct tools.... guess i got carried away, sorry... anyway do the job yourself, it's a great feeling.....

[swervin ervin]

I agree. If you think you are capable of this job, do it yourself and save a ton of money.

Read this and see what you think. It's for an entire front end rebuild but if you only need balljoints you can pick through the article for help on them only. It's not a hard job if you have a place to do the work and some know how.

http://www.73-87.com/7387garage/chas...n/frontend.htm

[79BIG10]

I just got through doing a complete rebuild thanks to the link posted above. It's a great help on the process. You can do the ball joint yourself with the right tool in about a day or so. If it's that bad you might want to get a whole kit since you're that far into it.

[four-eyed stang]

I would rebuild the whole front end. You can take the A-frames off and have a shop press them in for you. I had ball joints and bushings pressed in my mustang for $50 a couple of months back. 20 yrs ago I did a lower ball joint on my 82 chevy using a vise. Needless to say it was not fun.

[woodyjim]

Thanks for all the feedback guys! I'll definitely check out that link! I was thinking about doing the whole front end, any suggestions on a good kit? I think I will be doing this myself, I like the challenge. I have a good place to work and access to most of the tools I need (I think) and the best back-up a guy could hope for...You guys!! Thanks again for all the advice, I'll keep you posted.

[r0lf-]

PST makes great Poly Bushings. And IMO Balljoints wont be hard, just make sure you have plenty of time to grind

As many times as Ive been through my spindles now, its cake. Just be sure not to overtorque the balljoins upton reinstallation or you will need new control arms and spindles if you ever thing of taking em back off.

[79BIG10]

Originally Posted by woodyjim

Thanks for all the feedback guys! I'll definitely check out that link! I was thinking about doing the whole front end, any suggestions on a good kit? I think I will be doing this myself, I like the challenge. I have a good place to work and access to most of the tools I need (I think) and the best back-up a guy could hope for...You guys!! Thanks again for all the advice, I'll keep you posted.

The kit I used along with others is from www.performancesuspension.com They've got the whole kit you need for you rebuild. For a good quality kit with everything you need other than anything else you want to replace while you're there- brakes, rotors, bearings, springs, hoses, etc. It's the kit you can't beat. I've priced it seperately and hands down you can't beat the price with the quality parts you get from there.

On the rivets I used a cutoff tool and an air chisel. Make an X on the rivets and hit it then with the chisel point. Worked great.

[boxrodz]

A few years back, I was in a similar situation. The shop quoted me a price of over a 'G' to replace the ball joints. I decided to tackle it myself and in the process went thru the complete front suspension. Along with the ball joints, I replaced the control arm bushings. I went with GM rubber over poly to absorb the road vibrations, etc. I also bought a center link (relay rod), although I didn't really need it. Took a couple of days to complete. (Seems like I spent most of the time cleaning parts. I need a heavy-duty, automotive-size 'dish' washer. ) Federal Mogul (Moog) makes some good parts (along with the GM replacement parts).

[boxrodz]

Like the guys here have posted, there's different ways to accomplish this. Here's a few pics of the some of the process I followed. Don't forget a good penetrating oil for the nuts/bolts and cutting oil, if you're drilling out the rivets. If you decide to replace the bushings, I'd suggest having a shop press them in. (I did them myself, but struggled a bit with the 1-piece rubber bushings.) Then, follow the torque specs with the suspension loaded. BTW, I used moly grease as a lube.
Good luck.

[woodyjim]

Thanks again, guys!
One other thing, I noticed on the link about using a peice of chain to secure the coil spring. Know where I could look at any pics on some of this?

[swervin ervin]

Jim,

when I wrote said article, I added the bit about the chain. To tell you the truth, I've never had a problem with the spring jumping out. I did it as a safety precaution and it didn't move or jump, just sort of layed in the control arm. I put the part about the chain in the article as safety for anyone trying this. I didn't want to be the fault of some strange accident happening and hurting someone. Personally, I don't use a chain anymore. I'll leave it up to you if you want to. Safety first is not a bad thing though.

Mike

[woodyjim]

Originally Posted by swervin ervin

Jim,

when I wrote said article, I added the bit about the chain. To tell you the truth, I've never had a problem with the spring jumping out. I did it as a safety precaution and it didn't move or jump, just sort of layed in the control arm. I put the part about the chain in the article as safety for anyone trying this. I didn't want to be the fault of some strange accident happening and hurting someone. Personally, I don't use a chain anymore. I'll leave it up to you if you want to. Safety first is not a bad thing though.

Mike

Thanks Mike,
You're right of course. In today's law suite crazy world it's best not to leave one's self wide open. I will definitely consider this when doing my rebuild. My nephew will be helping me and he's done it before so I think we'll be O.K. Thanks again for all your help.

Jim

[boxrodz]

Originally Posted by woodyjim

Thanks again, guys!
One other thing, I noticed on the link about using a peice of chain to secure the coil spring. Know where I could look at any pics on some of this?

I've attached a couple of pics of threading the chain thru the coil spring and the hole at the bottom of the LCA. Leave a bit of slack in the chain, so it doesn't bind when you lower the LCA away from the spindle. BTW, excuse the mess.

Ditto on what Swerv said; the coil spring didn't pop out when I (gently) lowered LCA. But, better safe than ...

[79BIG10]

boxrodz great pics. You might see if Jeff might be able to use them with Mike's write up.

[boxrodz]

Originally Posted by 79BIG10

boxrodz great pics. You might see if Jeff might be able to use them with Mike's write up.

Thanks, Brandon.

I figure since these questions come up from time to time, I'd throw some pics together. Although pics are worth a 1,000 words, Mike's write-ups are really good. Hope it helps those tackling the job for the first time.

[Clos'84TX]

I see all the tools needed, above, only one thing missing....a 3lb sledge. this came in very handy when I removed mine.

[Slonaker]

Originally Posted by Clos'84TX

I see all the tools needed, above, only one thing missing....a 3lb sledge. this came in very handy when I removed mine.

My post mentioned the need for a BFH.

Slonaker