Disc Brake conversion

[Denny]

Has anyone used the Early Classic disc brake conversion kit for the 6 lug 69 Chevy? Was everything included in the kit? Also do they use standard 71-72 calibers? Do you need to buy new brake lines or anything else? thanks

[Tuck]

I bought a 6 lug disc conversion from Classic heartbeat and eveything was included down to the tie rod ends.

great kit and had 2" drop splindles

[Denny]

Thanks Tuck. Was this kit hard to install? How does your truck stop now?

[MikeB]

If you get their kit, you get everything you need. I believe their 69-70 spindles use stock 69-70 ball joints and tie rod ends, and 71-72 calipers. Call them -- they're very helpful.

[72futuresweet2wd]

I used there kit and it wasn't bad to install and all the parts were high quality. The only thing I could caution you about was a problem I had I bought there booster, master & prop valve with the kit. And I could not get the brakes to bleed and after spending a whole lot of time I found out the rod between the booster and the master cylinder was not letting the mastercylinder pull a the back when you let off the pedal. But I had to take it to a shop and spend some extra money before anyone figured this out including me. I would buy the Early Classic Stuff again but I just wanted to give you a heads up on the problem I had.

[Denny]

Thanks for that info on that rod, that does not sound too good. I have a new Vacuum booster and master cylinder. Would I have to buy new ones for the disc brakes? I would need the proporting valve for sure. I need to call them for sure.
I will probably do my headers first so I can get done with this new engine. Disc brakes are next in line and maybe those praise disc break pads and drum brakes.

[68SWB4x4]

you can get a new master cylinder from the local auto parts store for a 71-72 and use that

[ChevLoRay]

I have their system on my '69, with 6-lug rotors, 2.5-inch drop in front, stock-height springs; on the rear, I went with a 4-inch drop springs, new shocks and the adjustable track bar. I got the swaybar relocator, but haven't installed it yet....it raises the bar by 1-inch to help clear the inevitable stuff you'll encounter at the worst possible time.

The brake line brackets caused a slight interference at the upper control arm, but a little judicious bending solved that. I already had power brakes, so adding the master cylinder and associated plumbing was all that was needed.

The only brake problem I have is simply the same problem that I had before....the right rear will lock in a panic stop. So, I've got new hardware for the rear and will install new shoes and have the drums turned. At that time, I'll be completely done with them.

You'll enjoy them, whoever you get the stuff from.

[Denny]

Thanks for the info on the master cylinder.
I will be keeping mine stock height because I live in the country (if I lowered the front I would loose a oil pan LOL). I had the same problem with wheel lock up and it ended up a wheel cylinder. All my break components are new on this truck but I am just not happy with the drums stopping at higher speeds.
So far sounds like early Classics has a good product. Its neat hearing everyones input and any problems they may have encountered. Thanks again.

[Tim Christian]

I installed Early Classics 6-lug disc kit very high quality did not need nothing else.

[Denny]

Thanks Tim. You guys got me excited to do those brakes. I have been putting off the conversion because I was afraid of a incomplete or poorly designed kit. I did not want to keep my truck down long.

[Gee_Emm]

I was just wondering what the going rate is for a 71 or 72 disc brake set is, spindles rotors, calipers, and booster and master cylinder???

[70 Jimmy]

New or used? Used: You can get a front crossmember disc to disc for $100-$200 around here. You still need a proportioning valve and a booster (I think) if you don't already have power brakes. New: try Classic Performance Parts (CPP) or Earlyclassics at www.earlyclassic.com . Here is the direct link to disc kits http://www.earlyclassic.com/catalogpg15.html

[Project1970]

I love my ECE kit...I know that thing has saved me and my grille quite a few times...on my truck, it went on no problem. My guess is the problems are a truck-to-truck thing, and honestly, on 30-35 year old pickups, the ones that haven't lead such easy lives might not exactly be lined up to the specs that the kit was designed for. Mine is very unmolested and clean, so the kit went on great the way it was supposed to. Like the other guys said, call them - possibly their best feature is their service. They simply rock.

[Denny]

Thanks Project1970. Good to here your went on with no problems. Your right in 30 to 35 years these trucks have seen alot. Its good to know they have a good tech department, that is important to me. It's nice when you can call if you need help with their product.

[LowSeventy]

I bought the 4/6 drop and 6 lug disc brake kit from Early CLassic, and I love it. I'll try and post some pictures of my 70 as soon as my wheels get here. My buddy bought his kit from CPP and it was nowhere near as complete as mine, and he had to weld his track bar bracket on. All my stuff from Early Classic was name brand brake stuff too, and his was all foreign parts, if that matters to you.

[DeepPurple]

Just installed an early classic disc brake kit not too long ago. Went pretty well. Pretty well indeed.
One of the nice things about the kit is that you don't have to replace your ball joints. (Unless you're me and couldn't smack the lower ball joint out of place for love nor money evcen though they were just replaced a little over a year ago. But that's supposed to happen to me) And everything they have bolts up quite well. Only major complaint I had was that they bended a certain piece of tubing backwards, causing me to question my mechanical abilities for about 2 hours.

As for the part about the rod running from the brake pedal to the master cylinder, you will have to play with it a touch to get it right. As no instruction is sent. Generally I have it set up so there's no pressure at all on the pedal for about 1" of travel.

Brakes quite well (60-0 can't be much more than 180 feet) and keeps brake pedal feel under prolonged use. Rears still lock up under braking, but the only way to solve that would be an adjustable proportioning valve.

One thing most people don't think about (yours truly in this one) is that the conversion kicks the wheels out about 3/4".

Overall, I'd have to say it's one of the most comprehensive kits and definitely a thumbs up. To add to it, the staff at Early Classic are just about the brightest and most informed I've had the pleasure of dealing with. Not to mention the nicest.
Two thumbs up.

[Denny]

Thanks DeepPurple. From everything you say it sounds like a great kit. I hope to do mine this fall are next spring. I really hate these drum brakes.