Getting rid of washer hoses and other questions.

[High Speed low Drag]

I'm real new to this site but I like it alot. My shop is doing a 70 LWB resto/mod for a customer. One of the things that bothers me is the way that the washer hoses were originally run. I want to either re-route the hoses so that the two hoses going to the two nozzles are hidden or else put different "squirters" in the hood much like a Honda. Keeping in mind that the hoses may need to be serviced at some point, I'm looking for different ideas on how to cleanly run these two hoses.

On sort of the same note, for those people that are cleaning up the firewall, I've noticed that some are welding a plate over the heater core cutout. How are you running a heater? Relocating the core and hoses? Not having heat? I knid of like the idea of getting rid of the HVAC box under the hood but customer stated that he wants to have heat (and it's required for safety inspection).

I've got alot of pictures but I have no computer smarts and haven't figured out how to resize them from my computer to upload them to photobucket. Maybe one day I'll just sit down and figure it out.


Mark

[Longhorn Man]

required for inspection? Interesting, what if your truck was built with no heater? (heater delete was avalible in the 67 - 72... no defrost... nothing)

For the washer hoses, they could be run inside the fender, then drill a hole in the side of the cowl and run it up under the cowl vant to the squirter maybe?

[TP from Cntl PA]

Originally Posted by Longhorn Man

required for inspection? Interesting, what if your truck was built with no heater? (heater delete was avalible in the 67 - 72... no defrost... nothing)

For the washer hoses, they could be run inside the fender, then drill a hole in the side of the cowl and run it up under the cowl vant to the squirter maybe?

Here in PA, it is required unless otherwise originally equiped............So if it came with a heater delete you would be ok without it for a PA state inspection.

[crazy longhorn]

Well, a true "redneck" would get out & whizz on the sheild(if you had enough beers, it may clean the bugs of too!).....just be sure to roll up the windows, before turning the wipers on The truck might smell a little funky for a while, but in theory.....it should work? Then again, you might disreguard what a crazy old fart types at this time of the evening L

[Sammy]

I am trying to clean up the heater also. But want to maintain the heater. If your cab has the air box inside. The heater core is internal. Then you need a heater fan motor on the outside. Not sure about this yet but I believe you need the first triangular hole closest to the fan open for the heater to blow air inside the cab compartment?? Which leaves you to plate over the other trianglar firewall where your condensor was. If this is true, with minor mods (add an extra hole for mounting) you could plate the hole possibly use a non air heater for the firewall slice it diagonally on an angle put a plate on the end of your cut..Mount that to your firewall..This is what I am going to try. I will post pics if you want. My stainless plate is in the machine shop as of Monday.

[ghetto_superman]

its a little on the pricey side, but if you go with a vintage air system you can get A/C and heater all cleanly up under the dash and all you see on the outside of the firewall is like 4 hoses going in...

[High Speed low Drag]

Decided to run from the squirters through a vertical part under the cowl into the cab. Originally worried about water coming into the cab and down under the dash from the cowl area. I think I'm going to cut pieces of fuel line/tubing about 2 inches long, drill two holes from way up under the dash into the cowl area and weld the tubing to the holes and put heat shrink over the tubing connections on both sides. That should keep the water out.