67-72 mastyer cylinder/booster location?

[454_72_4X4]

Another board member and I were discussing the location of the factory brake master cylinder on these trucks.
We were trying to think of a way to mount the booster directly to the fire wall. (Instead of having it mounted on brackets away from the firewall.)

Has anybody did this or heard of a way to do it?
Pics maybe?

[Low68]

I have not done this, but I think that kugel komponents sells brackets for such things. You can probably rig up your own also. I saw a truck at the dallas goodguys show that had this done. It was pretty slick. I had a better picture of this truck, but it got erased when my computer crapped out. And before anybody asks, I don't have any affiliation with kugel komponents.
Dan

[pcmcobra]

clean truck. Hard to tell if there is even a motor in there...

[454_72_4X4]

Originally Posted by Low68

I have not done this, but I think that kugel komponents sells brackets for such things. You can probably rig up your own also. I saw a truck at the dallas goodguys show that had this done. It was pretty slick. I had a better picture of this truck, but it got erased when my computer crapped out. And before anybody asks, I don't have any affiliation with kugel komponents.
Dan

Yea, That's what I had in mind. I'll check out Kugel and see what they have.

Originally Posted by pcmcobra

clean truck. Hard to tell if there is even a motor in there...

Sits low in there doesn't it! Looks like a LT1 to me.

[Low68]

Also, Check this link out. They have something that looks like it might work, only I don't know how it would clear the gauges and stuff. Also, I don't see a brake switch mount. You would probably have to fabricate one.

http://www.southernrods.com/categori...rn-rods-1.html

[454_72_4X4]

Here's the Kugel setup;

http://www.kugelkomponents.com/produ...s/brakesys.jpg

Looks like the silver truck above might be running this setup.

While it looks like a quality setup I'm leaning more toward something that will retain the factory underdash components and use a readily available booster. (Even though the Kugel might be such a booster they probably won't divulge a factory part number)


I,ve been checking out the Southern Rods link. They have quite a selection of boosters but once again I tend to shy away from anything I can't replace at the local parts store.

[Low68]

Do you already have a booster? Because, if so, I think both of those brackets can bolt up to the typical booster(not 100% sure though). In my experience with boosters, I have come across two types of boosters. One was called a bendex booster or something like that, and I can't remember the other one's name. They work identically with only a slight diference in the bolt pattern. I believe that the booster that came on my truck (which fits the factory brackets, so I assume it is the factory booster, or a replacement) is the non-bendex booster. My booster does not fit the kugel bracket that I have (their 90 degree bracket, not the straight one that your looking at). I think I need the bendex style to have it bolt in or I will just redrill the holes.

I believe that both brake boosters are available through the auto store and are specific for our trucks. I went to an ABC auto parts store in Texas and bought a booster and went to put it on and it was the wrong size. When I went back, they said that they had two bolt patterns. So, I don't think that you would have any problems replacing it at the local hardware store.

However, both of these brackets would make it hard to retain the factory underdash components.
Dan

[Shane]

Bendix and Delco were the two OEM mfg's of boosters for your year trucks.

[454_72_4X4]

Originally Posted by Low68

Do you already have a booster? Because, if so, I think both of those brackets can bolt up to the typical booster(not 100% sure though). In my experience with boosters, I have come across two types of boosters. One was called a bendex booster or something like that, and I can't remember the other one's name. They work identically with only a slight diference in the bolt pattern. I believe that the booster that came on my truck (which fits the factory brackets, so I assume it is the factory booster, or a replacement) is the non-bendex booster. My booster does not fit the kugel bracket that I have (their 90 degree bracket, not the straight one that your looking at). I think I need the bendex style to have it bolt in or I will just redrill the holes.

I believe that both brake boosters are available through the auto store and are specific for our trucks. I went to an ABC auto parts store in Texas and bought a booster and went to put it on and it was the wrong size. When I went back, they said that they had two bolt patterns. So, I don't think that you would have any problems replacing it at the local hardware store.

However, both of these brackets would make it hard to retain the factory underdash components.
Dan

Currently I'm using a stock style setup. I'll be swapping out the cab and trying to get the truck painted before long.
So while the "new" cab is completely stripped out and off the truck I'd like to find a way to eliminate all the factory bracketry that makes the master cylinder/booster sit so far from the firewall, (Ugly and hard to work around too).

Here's my idea;
A readily available booster that will bolt directly to the firewall and accept a readily available master cylinder.
To make matter more complicated I'd like to use a aluminum master and I'll be running 4 wheel disc brakes.

If I have to modify to clutch/brake pedal hanger under the dash to make this work, I can do that easy enough.

[bcj67chevy]

Just put on a booster and master cylinder from newer gm truck with 4 wheel disc brakes like a 2001. tou would have to drill new holes, but a hell of a lot better.

[C10-Driver]

There is some info on this thread about running a newer style booster on a 67-72. It is an easy swap and the new boosters fit closer to the firewall than the older style.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=216515

[gringoloco]

Also, try an '84-86 Fiero. This is one of the many projects I have on the back-burner. Got the parts, just not the time.

[454_72_4X4]

Well here's what I've come up with guys.






The pushrod is almost exactly the correct length!



Had to drill new holes for the booster studs and enlarge the center hole.



The booster studs arn't long enough to reach through the factory reinforcment ridges so I enlarged the holes so the nuts will tighten down on the outer firewall.



Since the new booster pushrod has a smaller hole I had to make a stud instead of the factory shouldered bolt. I'll drill a hole through the stud and use a flatwasher and a cotterkey to retain the pushrod.



I used these 3/8 inch spacers between the booster and the firewall. I did this so I didn't have to enlarge the center hole to fit the largest part of the booster. I'm not sure if I'll keep the spacers or build a spacer plate that would fill the entire void. Or I might go ahead and enlarge the center hole so the booster sits tight against the firewall. I want to wait to find out exactly what height the brake pedal sits before I do much more.

[ghetto_superman]

that looks really great 454, but i would SERIOUSLY consider somehow integrating some plates or something on the back side of the firewall (underdash) for the booster studs to bolt to. the factory setup, brackets or not all connects together with at LEAST 1/8" steel. there is an enourmous amount of pressure being exerted into the braking system via the brake pedal- straight into the booster. one layer of sheetmetal on the outside of the firewall will be nowhere near enough to keep that in place. and having just the top two studs bolted to the bracket may be worse than nothing, as it will want to bent the booster/MC up and possibly snap off the studs, whereas otherwise all the pressure would be straight out on all 4 studs.

youre definitely on the right track with the top booster bolts going into the brake pedal support, but if it was me id cut out a little more sheet metal around what you already have, and extend the pedal support down (maybe some angle iron for more support) so the bottom booster bolts can have something solid to bolt to.

also, the connecting rod from the pedal to the booster may have enough up and down travel at the pedal end to cause some binding in the booster. just be aware of that.

then if youve got all 4 booster bolts going thru the pedal bracket, you wont need any bracket bolts coming thru the firewall, but it looks like youve already cut those off. overall, id say it looks very good, and i will pry do this exact same thing, but make sure theres plenty of support.

sorry for the long post and good luck and keep us posted!
-Mike

[fastbagged68]

I bought a 7 inch booster and a wilwood m/c and mounted it directly to the firewall. The booster has an adjustable rod on it. It took me a couple test drives to get it set @ the right length. It stops fine. Sorry the pics are not that good.

[robsm88]

Originally Posted by fastbagged68

I bought a 7 inch booster and a wilwood m/c and mounted it directly to the firewall. The booster has an adjustable rod on it. It took me a couple test drives to get it set @ the right length. It stops fine. Sorry the pics are not that good.

That looks clean! This thread makes me wish I hadn't allready bought and painted my OEM style replacements.

[454_72_4X4]

Originally Posted by ghetto_superman

that looks really great 454, but i would SERIOUSLY consider somehow integrating some plates or something on the back side of the firewall (underdash) for the booster studs to bolt to. the factory setup, brackets or not all connects together with at LEAST 1/8" steel. there is an enourmous amount of pressure being exerted into the braking system via the brake pedal- straight into the booster. one layer of sheetmetal on the outside of the firewall will be nowhere near enough to keep that in place. and having just the top two studs bolted to the bracket may be worse than nothing, as it will want to bent the booster/MC up and possibly snap off the studs, whereas otherwise all the pressure would be straight out on all 4 studs.

youre definitely on the right track with the top booster bolts going into the brake pedal support, but if it was me id cut out a little more sheet metal around what you already have, and extend the pedal support down (maybe some angle iron for more support) so the bottom booster bolts can have something solid to bolt to.

also, the connecting rod from the pedal to the booster may have enough up and down travel at the pedal end to cause some binding in the booster. just be aware of that.

then if youve got all 4 booster bolts going thru the pedal bracket, you wont need any bracket bolts coming thru the firewall, but it looks like youve already cut those off. overall, id say it looks very good, and i will pry do this exact same thing, but make sure theres plenty of support.

sorry for the long post and good luck and keep us posted!
-Mike

Good point Mike.
I thought about the strength of the firewall but haven't decided what/how to strengthen it. Even though the lower booster studs only go through the firewall, (and not the clutch/brake pedal bracket), I'm fairly sure it's strong enough as is, for all except maybe a panic stop, (when you really need it!).
The firewall is double layered where the booster studs come through and that's not counting the reinforcment structure that I made the large holes in.

I do agree with you though. Much better to be to strong than not strong enough. I like the angle iron idea.
It's along ways from needing that strength right now though, since the cab isn't on the frame yet...

The pushrod angle shouldn't present a problem at all because it's in the same position as the factory rod. That is unless I have to move the pushrod pivot up or down the pedal to get the required travel...

I forgot to mention for those that's interested, that this booster/master cylinder is off of a 97 Corvette! Cool huh?
Since I'll be converting the rear to disc brakes, this booster/master project will kill 2 birds with one stone!

[ghetto_superman]

bling bling on the corvette factor! ive got a '70 corvette booster/mc and im pretty sure its dual diaphragm, but im getting mixed answers with my research. it definitely looks like a dual cause it in no way is skinny... maybe ill post a pic. due to this thread, im not planning on using the ugly huge bracket.. but i might use some of the linkage guts under the dash. also, my booster has the KY rod, which only has like a quarter inch of thread on the end of it as opposed to the KZ rod which has the loop. (which id much rather have.) any recommendations? a coupler and a heim joint? i know you can get the rod out and replace it, but i dont know how.. and finally, i believe my 'vette setup has a bigger bore, but are the small bore rods still the same size? i really would like to have a standard KZ style 'loop' at the end of my rod...

*edit* if anyone knows of a good place besides a junkyard (junkyard IS fine tho) to get these misc parts like rods.. please let me know... thanks