Replacement Truck floor in a Blazer?

[Rokcrln]

Has anyone tried to use a full cab floor for a truck in a blazer yet. It sure looks like with a little trimming and some flanging to the rear of it that it would drop right in. I am thinking about going this rout on my 2WD when I get other projects completed. Any thoughts out their on this one? Sure would be nice for the guys that have very little left of the original floor. I know they make patch panels but depending just how anel you are this would give a very stock and unmolested look when done right.

Just board and thinking, never a good combo

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[LUV2XCLR8]

Kevin, I think you could do it pretty easily, most of us could not. They are
similar but not exact, but on the bright side it's alot easier to find them

[Rokcrln]

Now the one I was thinking of is the repoped one from goodmark or who ever!

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[LUV2XCLR8]

I have not seen that one in person, Yet, my concern on it would be thickness

[72CSTC5]

Seems like a lot of work but I guess you would go in from the top so you wouldnt have to deal with the rocker boxes and all.

[vtblazer]

I figured this would be a question we'd be asking YOU.

Sounds feasible, try it and tell us how it turns out.

[Rokcrln]

Originally Posted by vtblazer

I figured this would be a question we'd be asking YOU.

Sounds feasible, try it and tell us how it turns out.

Trust me I plan on it but with as slow as I am on my own stuff I figured someone would have tried it or checked it out already. Who was it that is making this part Any links for us lazy guys


Kevin
LFD Inc.

[pound41]

I am in the process of maching in a truck floor that came from Arizona. It had rust at the front lip and rockers edge So I am graphing it with patch panels. As Luv said I notice a difference in the thickness of the metals which would make you wonder since the floorpan is so important in the structure of a blazer. Also I have the door opening braced and the top on. I decided to keep what floor is good which is essentially the center hump and a few inches to each side. Getting the entire floor in to work was too hard for me. The panel I use will go in as essentially one welded together patch. Basically 1/2 the floor. It is combersome to move and try to adjust. So with the top off and entire floor out you would have to do some major bracing.

[jaros44sr]

I'm still not convinced on all the bracing, I hung my cowl off my rafters with one bolt. I only took one side apart as Kurt suggested, and now all my doors are lined up and back on. Seems like it worked.

I think if I would've known about the full floor 6 months ago I would have tried it, just looks like a cleaner neater fix. 10 patch panels and all...

Rok, you seem to have the most experience, I say go for it, altho $600.00 does sound a little pricey...

On another matter, Rok what would you guess a buggy frame would cost to have made??? J.

wwwgoodmarkindustries.com

[Rokcrln]

Originally Posted by jaros44

Rok, you seem to have the most experience, I say go for it, altho $600.00 does sound a little pricey...

On another matter, Rok what would you guess a buggy frame would cost to have made??? J.

wwwgoodmarkindustries.com

Honestly if $600 sounds to pricey instead of the cost of ten patch panels, time to weld the ten panels together and grind smooth and all than a true buggy frame is way too pricey

Well mine is a very simple design but still with the man hours tfor building the front and rear four link, brackets, tabs, thingys and so on I would need in the ball park of $15k for starters just for a roller un finished and that is just labor. If I added up the time and parts I have into mine as it sits now I know it would be in the $40k range. Stay with a full frame and just beat the snot out of it!

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[jaros44sr]

Originally Posted by Rokcrln

Honestly if $600 sounds to pricey instead of the cost of ten patch panels, time to weld the ten panels together and grind smooth and all than a true buggy frame is way too pricey

Kevin
LFD Inc.

I meant in relation to spending $100.00 or so for patch panels and getting the same results. At present I have about 10 large invested, so I'm well into spending money... JMHO

That's the problem I don't want to be the snot out of it, I'm looking for another choice. Jim

[vtblazer]

Originally Posted by jaros44

That's the problem I don't want to be the snot out of it, I'm looking for another choice. Jim

Simple answer is to find another "not so nice" 1st gen to beat on and have the best of both worlds.

Works for me.

[jaros44sr]

Originally Posted by vtblazer

Simple answer is to find another "not so nice" 1st gen to beat on and have the best of both worlds.

Works for me.

Actually, I was wheelin with akid that had a Sammy, he did pretty well. Kept his foot in it. He said there was one in Va. for 700

[jaros44sr]

Yeah but.... They can all be saved, and then the 'not so nice' become...

[Rokcrln]

Originally Posted by jaros44

I meant in relation to spending $100.00 or so for patch panels and getting the same results. At present I have about 10 large invested, so I'm well into spending money... JMHO

Jim

I ment when you addd up parts and time the full floor is not that bad!
$10K heck you have just started I agree go with a sammi or a yota and turn your Blazer into what they should all be 2WD! On second thought just beat the snot out of it so my 2WD keeps going up in price! If you are just looking for a buggy of some type check graigs or some of the 4x4 sites for used set up's. I know what I have into mine but I could only get about $20k if I were to sell it so it is better to buy then build some times.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[jaros44sr]

Yeah, I guess your right I keep forgeting about the labor and time. Heck, if I wanted a 2wd I could have bought a car J/K

[pumpkin]

My wheeling Blazer started as a basket case. So since it would never be worth anything as a collectable, when I did the rear box floor area I used a short box from an 89 p.u. What I did is drilled all the spot welds from the inner box sides of both. Then welded the 89 inners to the 72 outers, trimmed the floor to lenght, welded the front edge of the 89 box floor to the blazer and bolted the rest togeather. When done I got a one piece floor with all good cross braces, and if you didn't know it look like stock. The exception being all the bolts that you normall see were now hiden.

[Musclerodz]

Tri-Plus has full floors, as well as Dynacorn I believe. Goodmark shows a price of $499 with braces. I would double check the brace difference between the trucks to see if you could use a truck braced floor. You may have to buy a bare floor.

Mike

[k5keith]

Kevin i am a sheet metal guy and think it would be easier than patching.As my welding skills are not great. I am in the process of doing the under seat part on my blazer. I have five hrs. into old floor removal and new floor dry fit. with the pick up floor already cut out. rockers already off. ect.ect. I was documenting the steps as i went but the p.o.s. dig. camera ate all of my pics.thought i'd try my new camera.

[k5keith]

another pic.

[k5keith]

last one

[LUV2XCLR8]

Now that's what I call surgery

[jaros44sr]

Originally Posted by LUV2XCLR8

Now that's what I call surgery

Gotta agree, scary cool. Just do what is required to get the job dun. I'm impressed, keep the pics coming on your progress, never seen one that far disassembled...J.

BTW, nice pics.

[meathead95]

post # 20 is what i did to my 2wd blazer. i big back half. and then the whole left and right side. a grand total of 3 pieces. most folks couldnt tell it had been replaced untill i pointed it out.

[jaros44sr]

Originally Posted by 6speed1972

I just realized you meant cab floor instead of bed floor. But in case any one was interested here is the diff that i was mentioning. Sorry guys

That differance is because someone didn't use the rite carriage bolts, square head are wrong. The bolt pattern is the same for P/U or Blazer/Jimmy to my knowledge...