Surface Rust removal

[Nachos82]

I got a 67 that is pretty covered with a coat of surface rust. I was wondering what the best way to get it back down to clean bare metal is. I have heard of using 80 grit paper and just take it all down as far as you can and put on some of the metal prep acid solution that stops the rust and coats it to be painted. I thought I saw where someone said you could get a wire wheel cup to run on an angle grinder. I am wondering if anyone out there has a good idea or a certain item that seemed to work good for them. So far I used a metal prep on the hood and scrubbed with Scotch Bright pads and had it turn out pretty good. I was just looking for alternatives to this.

[Peter82]

sand/media blasting is awesome but you hsve to know what grit and it costs a bit to do it. a whire wheel is awsome but it might take u a while and u will go through a few wheels, it also takes some time but it looks good. down side to the wheel is that if its really pitted then the wheel might not get down in the pits. midia blasting will. and scotch bright is a good finish after all is said and done but if you just try and use scotch bright it will take forever and you'll spend a bunch of money on it. what i would do is

sand blast the big areas with the most rust... sand the paint and light surface rust with 80-120 grit sandpaper... use a rust conversion coating from like rustolium when bondo, sand, primer, and paint. maybe $500 worth of work and supplyes before paint???

[bent]

well what if the surface is really pitted what is the best way to do that i dont have a sand blaster and people want to much to do a truck


Peter 82 is right wire wheels r awsome but it will take a few wheels and it also heats the metal so you have to be kina carefull as well i know the rust removial wheels do a number on paint and you wont use as many as u would apposed to paint removal wheels i have spent 35.00 on wire wheels and i have only gotten 1 fender and a partial hood dun wich i sent to scrap yard

[special-K]

You have to watch warping panels in larger areas with sandblasting.If someone`s real careless,smaller areas can be warped.The wheel and sanding are great and can be used along with blasting in sensitive areas.That rust treatment (I like Permatex) takes care of the pits if you don`t blast at all.I don`t use the type that forms a white crust that is just another oxidation.What TSC sells is one example of that type.The type that Permatex is turns the metal black and is like a glaze over it that,alone,will keep the metal protected for about 6 months outside.You can paint right over it,too.You`re supposed to sand that other white stuff off if it forms.Then,where`s your protection?

[special-K]

I forgot to say...the first thing I do is use stripper to strip the paint.Then,start on the rust.

[OhNoJoe]

what kind of primer would you use to drive around on before you got the cash or time to paint your truck?

[prg machine]

Go to Roadsters.com and read about Gibbs..www.gibbslubricant.com has a link to roadsters. Do what they did to the coupe.

[Peter82]

also u can get rustolium (however its spelled) in a gallon can. roll it on and forget about it.

[streetstar]

DP-90 sprayed over with clear and a flattening agent is what the hard core black primer guys do

[bighorse]

Treat it with Picklex.

[special-K]

Rustoleum and TSC(Valspar) red oxide seals and holds up for a long time(years).

[prg machine]

Originally Posted by Nacho82

I got a 67 that is pretty covered with a coat of surface rust. I was wondering what the best way to get it back down to clean bare metal is. I have heard of using 80 grit paper and just take it all down as far as you can and put on some of the metal prep acid solution that stops the rust and coats it to be painted. I thought I saw where someone said you could get a wire wheel cup to run on an angle grinder. I am wondering if anyone out there has a good idea or a certain item that seemed to work good for them. So far I used a metal prep on the hood and scrubbed with Scotch Bright pads and had it turn out pretty good. I was just looking for alternatives to this.

Since your topic of concern seems to be about rust "removal" not covering it up............I advise going to www.roadsters.com and reading the experience they had with Gibbs..........www.gibbslubricant .com.

[Sport/Truck]

Originally Posted by prg machine

Since your topic of concern seems to be about rust "removal" not covering it up............I advise going to www.roadsters.com and reading the experience they had with Gibbs..........www.gibbslubricant .com.

That stuff is very impressive!! I'm going to order some now. I have a small amount of rust on my fire wall, but don't want to paint just yet. So I'll coat the frame and fire wall with gibbs.
s/t

[Riveted1]

Originally Posted by Sport/Truck

That stuff is very impressive!! I'm going to order some now. I have a small amount of rust on my fire wall, but don't want to paint just yet. So I'll coat the frame and fire wall with gibbs.
s/t

S/T, let us know how that stuff works. I was afraid that it might just be "snake oil."

[Nachos82]

Sorry for the long delay. I moved back to PA and ended up putting the truck in storage for winter. I am interested in that Gibb's stuff you guys mentioned. I also am looking for a report from Sport/Truck to see how well it works. My plan is to tear the truck completely appart and do a full restoration as I usually do with most of my projects I end up in. I am going with original as in not changing the truck, but making it look like the factory should have when it rolled off the line with shiney paint on everything that can be painted. I will wait for Sport/Truck to let us all know how this Gibb's stuff is, or if he does not get any, next year I will purchase some and try it and let you all know how it was.

[jfalesi]

Mine's in a drawer in my nightstand...

Originally Posted by special-K

You have to watch warping panels in larger areas with sandblasting.If someone`s real careless,smaller areas can be warped.The wheel and sanding are great and can be used along with blasting in sensitive areas.That rust treatment (I like Permatex) takes care of the pits if you don`t blast at all.I don`t use the type that forms a white crust that is just another oxidation.What TSC sells is one example of that type.The type that Permatex is turns the metal black and is like a glaze over it that,alone,will keep the metal protected for about 6 months outside.You can paint right over it,too.You`re supposed to sand that other white stuff off if it forms.Then,where`s your protection?

[prg machine]

Originally Posted by Riveted1

S/T, let us know how that stuff works. I was afraid that it might just be "snake oil."

The best I can say is you will have to try it. It may sound like "snake oil" but if 2 drops of snake or even lizard can break free that one fastener that is gonna break off down inside your head or manifold when trying to get an old water pump off ( Or something) then hail the "snake" You just payed for a whole case of the stuff by keeping your engine outa the machine shop. Ever broke a brake bleeder????

Now, if it turns surface rust to a condition that it describes ( and it does!) then ..........................................well.................................................. ............................darn.................................






End of story.

[Riveted1]

By reading your posts PRG Machine, it seems like you might be affiliated in some way with Gibbs. You can't blame me or any of the others for being a little skeptical. I just wanted S/T to let us know what his experience was if he ever got around to using it.

And btw, please stop winking... It's creeping me out!

[Sport/Truck]

I mustered up 4 guys at work to go in on an order of Gibbs oil. I got 2 cans for myself and 6 cans brings the price down pretty reasonable too. Should be here in a few days.
When I get it, I’m going to coat the entire frame area around the engine, and the fire wall. The frame area is degreased and clean metal with some bare metal areas with some new surface rust. The fire wall is pretty nice except for the area around the master cylinder. My suspicion is the brake oil leaked over the years and caused the rust.
My goal is to convert it to a patina that wont take away from the looks of the new motor going in.

I’ll have plenty of pictures to show everything, and how this stuff works.
s/t

[Riveted1]

Sweet, S/T.... I'm eagerly awaiting the results!

[mrein3]

I've used the following process with good results. Good = no rust has come back yet.

First get a 3M clean 'n strip quick change disc for your angle grinder. While wearing a respirator, remove all the paint, primer, filler, and as much of the rust as you can.

Then use PPG DX520 "Metal Conditioner". I've used this and DuPont's version called Kwik Prep or something like that. Follow the directions for this product. And of course follow the safety tips to protect yourself.

After the metal conditioner I apply epoxy primer. I've used PPG DP50LF and MP 170. I'm not 100% positive but I believe MP170 is the same as DP50LF except that LF is lead free. Both are good products.

Then do any filler work over the epoxy.

Once you're happy with the filler, seal it all then top coat.

The attached picture is of the 3M disc I used. I took the picture off the 3M website. On the roof of my truck, while using the above process, I also took out all the dried seam sealer then re-sealed it. I put the seam sealer on top of the epoxy.

Disclaimer: I do NOT work for 3M or PPG, I'm just a backyarder like most of us.

[DavesRide]

Just how bad is the rust? If it just surface without pitting use the finest grain of sand paper the you can and make it go away. Then use the filler primer to correct for the heavily sanded area. One area or the entire surface.
You got pitted areas? grind it, blast it, just get the rust completely gone. Then work it back smooth. Rust comes from oxygen eating away at the metal. once the oxidation (rust) The metal now has the oxygen molecules in it. Paint over rust and you will get it back because the oxygen is still there.
Making it fast and easy now might make for even more work in the future. Rust Never sleeps. Take your time.

[jfalesi]

How is your wood-fired engine working out?

Originally Posted by Sport/Truck

I mustered up 4 guys at work to go in on an order of Gibbs oil. I got 2 cans for myself and 6 cans brings the price down pretty reasonable too. Should be here in a few days.
When I get it, I’m going to coat the entire frame area around the engine, and the fire wall. The frame area is degreased and clean metal with some bare metal areas with some new surface rust. The fire wall is pretty nice except for the area around the master cylinder. My suspicion is the brake oil leaked over the years and caused the rust.
My goal is to convert it to a patina that wont take away from the looks of the new motor going in.

I’ll have plenty of pictures to show everything, and how this stuff works.
s/t

[67shortie]

My whole hood was a mess with surface rust when I bought it (PO stripped the hood and left it outside), all I did was DA with 80 grit and coat with epoxy primer.

If any bodywork is needed, do that next and use a fill prime and block/paint.

[jeffnohio]

That Gibbs stuff sounds awesome..

On my hood I had some pretty bad pitting and surface rust.. I hit it with a large wire cup wheel, then on the bad stuff I went to a flap wheel on a angle grinder.. This did the job fine.. Coated with rust tuff.. and red oxide primer