My brakes and suspension are garbage!!

[Daniel 61 Apache]

Hello. Before I go spending a butt load of money I thought I'd have you guys critique my choices since I'm new to these trucks. Here's where I'm at with the truck right now.

Right now my truck is falling apart.
When I bought my truck the rear shocks were converted to a coilover shock and the coil spring was scrapped to achieve a low stance. But, the coilover shock was a little too short. So they drilled a hole in the frame, welded a bolt to the frame rail, and attached the coilover. Crappy craftsmanship, results in crappy performance. Now the driverside rear coilover has ripped out of the framerail and the trucks leans like a rapper trying to look cool..... Sometime ago, someone also cut and ripped out the rear brakeline. No rear brakes at all. The front brakes feel like they're a couple of pencil erasers rubbing on the drums so I'd like to fix that as well. I don't want to be ghetto so I'm going to try to do this the way it should have been done the first time.....Right.

Here's what I plan to do with it.
I'd planned on going with a front disc conversion kit and rear drum rebuild kit from www.earlyclassic.com. The front kit, here, is $995 and comes with "Master Cylinder, Proportioning Valve, Brake Lines, Brake Hoses, Calipers, Pads, Rotors, Bearings, Seals, Dust Shields, Dust Caps, Castle Nuts, Slotted Washers, Banjo Bolts, and All necessary Hardware and Brackets" according to their website. I'll also be getting a rear drum rebuild kit from them also. Next I was going to buy an airbag kit from www.*****************. I was going to use the "build your own custom kit" option. The parts I chose were the following:

KP 200 PSI Single Needle
9 Port 5 Gallon Slim and Skinny
Slam Specialties 7" RE 200 PSI Single Port (Front and Rear Bags)
SMC 3/8" Fill Valve
Viair 380 150 PSI Compressor
50ft of 1/4" DOT Reinforced Air Line
KP 200 PSI Dual Needle
AVS ARC-T7 Trans Polished 7 Toggle Switch
Viair Pressure Switch 110/145 PSI
SMC 3/8" Dump Valve
50ft of 3/8" DOT Reinforced Air Line

Is there anything that I might be missing or anyone have any advice? My truck is a 61 and I can't find any kind of bolt in air ride system. And early classic is the only place that I found offering a "bolt in" setup for discs. I'm looking to purchase this all in the next few weeks so any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Daniel

[ChiefRocka]

Definately repair the brakes...As far as the air, I would run Dual 200 psi Viairs, and use 1/2 Fill valves w/ the 3/8 dump valves.

Also run 1/2 lines instead of the 3/8.

The bags are perfect....also you will need two Dual needle guages.

You can run the bolt on plates from them as well, to make it easier on you. I looked at SlepySals truck frame, and it is super easy to bag...and get rid of the torsions. You can modify the plates to work on your frame.

(see the second link below)

Later,

[Daniel 61 Apache]

Thanks for the link. That definitely helps out a lot, I'm sure I'll be referring to it in the future. Since you've obviously plumbed a few air kits before, is this the best/easiest way to go about it?

[img]http://www.*****************/how_to/wire-diagrams/8valve.gif[/img]

[CAP11]

I'm looking into doing the same brake upgrade to my '65. I would assume that in addition to the earlyclassic conversion we would also need a brake booster? That doesn't appear to be a part of the conversion kit.

[Daniel 61 Apache]

I am waiting on an email back from them regarding your question CAP11. I figured I should ask them if there was anything else I may have needed to complete the swap. I'll let you know what they say.

[ChiefRocka]

That is the typcal set-up for the airride.

That is the most efficient way to run the valves....near the wheels. By doing it this way, you actually 'extend' the tank volume slightly, and make the suspension respond faster. (due to the fact that the valves are closer to the air-springs)

An even easier install, would be to mount the valves right to the tank, and just run lines to the bags. This would be the easier way...because all the valve, pressure switch, and compressor wiring are all located in one general location. This make the wiring concentrated in one location.

With the valves elsewhere, you would have to run wires along your frame-rails to their location from a wiring block from your switch box.

Not a big deal, but just giving you some info.

[s15project]

I just put in the early classic kit on a 60 pickup. It's an easy to bolt in kit. Don't know if it's supposed to come with instructions but I didn't get any. And it was Sunday so I didn't have anyone to call and ask about it either. But I got everything figured out and installed. Hardest part was holding up the brake lines to figure what went where. And my pedal rod was a smaller diameter then the opening in the master so I made a spacer to take up the difference.

When I ordered my kit the booster was an option. I chose to go without since I've driven it with the manual brakes and been okay with the way it feels. Pedal feel with the discs are the same butit stops great compared to before. If you're used to the power brake pedal feel you may want to add on the booster. And I think you may also have to fab a bracket to mount the booster to the firewall. At least on my 60 I would have to if I wanted to add a booster.

[Daniel 61 Apache]

s15project is right. They don't offer the booster with the kit. But if you want one it's $290 and comes with a firewall block off plate. I'll stick with what I have.

You got any pics s15project?

[slepysal]

Is it a stick or an automatic. If it's an auto no problem with the swap, if it is a m/t then you have to come up with clutch master as well as a brake master cylinder. S15 Pics would be great. I have the kit just no time .
Hey Chief thanks again sorry I couldnt make it .We'll see you soon

[Daniel 61 Apache]

My truck is a manual converted to auto. I doubt it should change much for me.

[slepysal]

Originally Posted by Daniel 61 Apache

My truck is a manual converted to auto. I doubt it should change much for me.

then it should be no problem! What type of trans?

[Daniel 61 Apache]

It's a TH350 3 speed. But I just pulled a 700r4 on saturday from a 91 Chevy Van to put in it. I've got a lot of work coming up this winter!!

[slepysal]

What did you use for a trans cross member?

[Daniel 61 Apache]

It was in the truck when I bought it. I can take some pictures of it tonight if you'd like.

[slepysal]

Originally Posted by Daniel 61 Apache

It was in the truck when I bought it. I can take some pictures of it tonight if you'd like.

That would be cool thanks !

[Daniel 61 Apache]

Hopefully you didn't need that pic today. It's 12:30AM and I just got home. I'll try tomorrow.

[Daniel 61 Apache]

Here's the crossmember thats in it right now.

[slepysal]

thanks !!! looks nice and low

[Daniel 61 Apache]

Not low enough.

[Tomsriv]

Originally Posted by Daniel 61 Apache

s15project is right. They don't offer the booster with the kit. But if you want one it's $290 and comes with a firewall block off plate. I'll stick with what I have.

You got any pics s15project?

Keep in mind that drum brakes are self-energizing. In other words when you apply the brake the shoes grab the drum and rotate slighly inside the drum to a point where they are pressed against the drum harder. They use the rotation of the drum to allow the brake to apply harder, in other words, self-energizing. Disc brakes do not do anything like that. That is why all cars with stock disc brakes also have stock power brakes. I chose to add the booster because if I am towing a load I want to be able to use all of my braking power without killing my leg.

[apache18]

I have a 60 and used a complete front end suspention out of a 73 chev. It bolted right in. Same with the booster, although i had to make a bracket for the booster. It was very staight forward.

[nickster1]

Originally Posted by apache18

I have a 60 and used a complete front end suspention out of a 73 chev. It bolted right in. Same with the booster, although i had to make a bracket for the booster. It was very staight forward.

will the 73 bolt right in with a 62 chevy c10?
front clip suspenion??
trying to lower my 62 but crappy torsion bars.
any tips.

[nickster1]

Originally Posted by Daniel 61 Apache

Not low enough.

any tips on how to slam my 62??
replace the whole front suspenion clip??

[502tripower]

Originally Posted by nickster1

will the 73 bolt right in with a 62 chevy c10?
front clip suspenion??
trying to lower my 62 but crappy torsion bars.
any tips.

Yes, with very little effort you can swap the 73-87 front crossmember in. You may have to drill a few holes for the crossmember as well as mount the steering box.