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Old 10-06-2002, 08:39 PM   #1
Dandeluxe
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Question Stock Height Stance????

I PUT ALL NEW SPRINGS, KYB GAS SHOCKS, ALL NEW FRONT END PARTS, BUT NOW HAVE DECIDED I DONT LIKE THE FACTORY STANCE, TOO MUCH RAKE IN THE BACK. MY ? IS, WOULD ME CHANGING THE REAR SPRINGS IN THE REAR MAKE MY TRUCK SIT LEVEL. I LIKE THE FRONT STANCE BUT I WOULD LIKE TO MAKE IT THE SAME IN THE REAR. MAYBE 2 INCH LOWER SPRINGS IN THE REAR MIGHT MAKE IT SET THE WAY I WANT? ANY IDEAS?
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Old 10-06-2002, 10:15 PM   #2
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Hey I know you wanted advice but I just wanted to tell you that even with the absence of primer you got one nice looking truck
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Old 10-06-2002, 11:07 PM   #3
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You might try a 2" lowering block in the rear......I think it would get you pretty close. Pics can make it hard to say for sure, but it looks to be 2-2 1/2 " higher at the rear. Good luck......crazy AL
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Old 10-08-2002, 09:11 PM   #4
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Talking lower the rear

It would be best to use 2" lowering springs.

crazy AL- Can't use lowering block on coil rear suspension, you probably knew that already but I figure you were thinkin about 73-87's.
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Old 10-08-2002, 11:09 PM   #5
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As far as i know, you can buy lowering blocks for coil spring equipped trucks, they just go under the axle and above the control arm, and come with longer u-bolts. Someone correct me if I am wrong!
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Old 10-09-2002, 08:27 AM   #6
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Yes, you can use lowering blocks on coil spring trucks.......the axle is mounted above the trail arm from the factory. Alvin is right on, the kits come with longer U bolts. On the leaf spring trucks you cant use lowering blocks........they would be a lift block, as the axle sits under the spring.........Crazy AL
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Old 10-10-2002, 07:24 PM   #7
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i made my own lowering blocks and just bought longer u bolts
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Old 10-14-2002, 10:04 AM   #8
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Heavy,

Do you have any pinion angle issues like vibration or worn ujoints? That's the only possible downside I see to this method. How far down did you go?
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Old 10-18-2002, 02:18 AM   #9
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Drop

Chevy likes the 2 inch snow plow effect. Your truck (if at origianal stance) should be two inches higher in the rear. Lowering springs would be your best option. You have two others though. One is to cut the springs but a machine shop would have to reshape the coil because the top and bottom coils of the spring are smaller diameter than the rest (not a problem in the front however if you later decide you want to drop it too, in the front only the top has a smaller diameter so you can cut the bottom, then heat it up and pound the coil flat to sit on your control arm.) Back to the rear. They are also progressive coils so when you chop the top or bottom the new top or bottom coils will be closer. In essence it will be a little stiffer, in actuality you won't notice a thing. The other option is not suggested but fun to do, especially if you are going to get different springs anyway. Until you get them if you want it lower, just heat the coils to see what you are going to have. Do one side at a time and take it slow. It isn't as hard as everyone says to make it acuarate but just take it slow and measure off the tire to the fender. The bump stops may not be acurate. Warning: if you go to far there is no turning back. You may be chopping the front springs too. Best of luck.

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Old 10-19-2002, 10:36 AM   #10
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SPRINGS?

thanks to all you guys for all your suggestions, i think im gonna go with 2 inch lower springs from early classic, i think this would get me close to what i want , which is even stance front and back
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Old 10-20-2002, 12:24 PM   #11
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i did a 2 1/2'' drop w/ square tubing it helped straightend out the pinion angle and so far i have not seen any paprticular amounts of wear, i just need to put an adjustabe panhard bar on it.
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Old 10-26-2002, 08:26 PM   #12
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heres a pic
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    91 454 Edel Performer RPM Intake 750 cfm carb Comp Cam 268/.495 Hedman Headers Dual 3'' Exhaust
  • 71 Cheyenne 20 4x4 Fact. A/C PS PB Tilt Currently in the works...
Speak Softly and Carry A Big Block...
There is No replacement for Displacement...
"If everything seems under control, you're just not going fast enough."
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Old 05-05-2024, 10:18 PM   #13
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Re: Stock Height Stance????

is it made that way so when you load up the back you are now level?
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Old 05-06-2024, 09:20 AM   #14
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Re: Stock Height Stance????

I would go with the spring option. If you go blocks you could get into scrub line issues depending up on the block you are running and your tire/wheel combination. That is, if you have a flat the bottom of the trailing arm would drag the ground.

Super nice truck, by the way. More photos inside and out in this thread would not be a disappointment.
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Old 05-06-2024, 11:40 AM   #15
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Re: Stock Height Stance????

21 year old thread, but still a valid question.

If you look at old brochures you will see this is not the stock stance, they were much closer to level.
I'd guess someone sold OP springs from a heavy half/camper special longbox.

Chevelle / full size sedan springs will bolt right into trailing arm trucks. A set from a wagon will give you a couple inches drop and a softer ride. Add some air shocks if you occasionally need to carry a load.
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Old 05-15-2024, 11:13 AM   #16
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Re: Stock Height Stance????

Quote:
Originally Posted by leegreen View Post
21 year old thread, but still a valid question.

If you look at old brochures you will see this is not the stock stance, they were much closer to level.
I'd guess someone sold OP springs from a heavy half/camper special longbox.

Chevelle / full size sedan springs will bolt right into trailing arm trucks. A set from a wagon will give you a couple inches drop and a softer ride. Add some air shocks if you occasionally need to carry a load.
Very possible that the original owner or near to it was going for the 'Muscle Car' look. That was very popular in the early 70's.
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