Rear Brake Drum Questions

[MN Rooky]

I have tried to do my homework but have come up with nothing. I have a 1971 3/4 ton and I am trying to check the back brakes. I apply the brake and nothing happens to the back brakes. No parking brake either. When I took the tires off I wasn't sure on how to take apart this type of drum. I looked it up in my books and search the thread history's. I came up with nothing to help me know what I will get myself into.

I started to take the 8 hex bolts off and it looked like gear oil coming out of the holes. Do I need to take off that end and then the wheel stud portion come off. Then I can get to the drum? Is the a seal of some type between the drum and the wheel studs that I will need to replace when I rip it apart. Or is it easier then I imagine.
Thanks for helping me out with all my beginner questions.

[Blue_71]

first you take out the 8 3/4" head bolts.. gear oil will come out. i suggest getting new seals. autozone has some pretty nice outer seals for these (rubber with metal insert). they list as being for a dana 60, but it is a direct fit. i can get you the part number tomarow

you then will see an odd looking nut in there, it seems like from memory it has 4 or 6 slots in it for a special tool. i believe a 4wd front wheel bearing socket fits it, but im not positive. after taking off that nut, there will be a small plate (lock plate) remove it. there will then be another of the odd nuts with the 4 or 6 slots, remove that and the entire drum will pull right off, assuming your shoes arent stuck against it


now for my question to you-- what kind of trans do you have? i have a SM465 in mine with 3" blocks, and it seems to want to wheel hop everytime i let out on the clutch. do youi have any problems with your 4" blocks?

[MN Rooky]

I wish I knew if it hopped too I haven't had it on the road yet. I have a 205 trans and 4.10 gears. The lift kit was last months project. I have had it in the shop for 2 years working on it. I want it to be on the road in 3 months. Thanks for the info. I figured it would be something like that. If you come up with the number on the part that would be great. Tomorrow will be brake disassembly.

[Blue_71]

sounds like yours is alot like mine-- its also a NP205 with 4.10s. mines been on the road a 2 months. i only drove it once on blacktop with no blocks, and that was 5 years ago, so i have no idea if it did it before or not

[OldCreek]

looks like an H052 rear end.. I would have guessed a 14blt for that year. Anyways, the spindle nuts should be 6 prong... you could always loosen them with a screwdriver/hammer. But, buy the socket to tighten them. The hub/drum should come off together. Try not to damage the lug studs... they don't make the exact size anymore and it's hard to find them. But, you could buy the same size lug in a longer length...shouldn't be a problem.

[OldCreek]

oops... it's a 71.... i thought it read as a 73...that's the right axle.

also, don't damage the spindle lock ring tabs.

[68K20 x Drill]

http://pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/14b_bible/14b.pdf
nobody describes it quite like the army. Yours is a little different, but generally similar.

[bomar]

where did you get those u bolts at

[MN Rooky]

The U bolts came with the Rough Country lift kit. I know at Fastenal they can make any size Square u bolt. Not sure what it would cast. Sorry I'm not any more help on this one.

[Blue_71]

here ya go if you still need it:

http://www.autozone.com/N,11201948//...eResultSet.htm

felpro rear axle flange gasket P/N 55350

[MN Rooky]

Cover me I'm going in....
I got the bolts off and pulled the cap off. To my surprise, it is attached to the shaft. Only about a 1/2 cup of oil came out of the axle. I got the socket to remove the spanner nuts. The hole stud assembly and brake drum came off together. The brake pads look like the have enough like in them but the cylinder ends are cracked and the adjustment wheel is in rough shape. I nee to clean it up and see what I need.
Thanks for everyone's help. I'm sure I'll be asking more questions.

[Yukon Jack]

Thanks for taking the great pics. I'll store this link for reference - I'll need it some day I bet.

[va_tlc]

yep that is a great picture, how are your drums? hopefully they will be ok, i belive those wheels cylinders are pretty high if i remeber right, good luck.

[MN Rooky]

From what I know the drums look okay and the bearings look pretty new. I'll get a picture up tomorrow of the drum. I looked in LMC at the cylinders and they were asking $30. If you know of anyone cheaper let me know.

[MN Rooky]

A few more pictures. One of the inner nut and one of the drum.

[va_tlc]

i belive thats about what i payed for the wheel cylinders locally parts store, its hard to see the drum is it good and smooth? and after you get the whole thing back toghther, remeber that oil that came out when you took your axle out? you need to get more back in there for the bearings, so when you first drive it drive on a incline a hill or such to get oil back out there, do that one each side, good luck.

[doctrouble]

Originally Posted by va_tlc

i belive thats about what i payed for the wheel cylinders locally parts store, its hard to see the drum is it good and smooth? and after you get the whole thing back toghther, remeber that oil that came out when you took your axle out? you need to get more back in there for the bearings, so when you first drive it drive on a incline a hill or such to get oil back out there, do that one each side, good luck.

Does this mean you have to take the drums off again after you find an incline?

[Stocker]

Originally Posted by doctrouble

Does this mean you have to take the drums off again after you find an incline?

What? No....he said that since a small amount of oil has drained out, you may need to add a little to make sure the differential is full. Always a good idea.

I think what he was saying is next is to find a sidehill or something so the oil will run down to each axle end, left and right sides. This is not necessary. The oil will reach the axle bearings just fine in normal driving.

[doctrouble]

Sorry, duh huh.. that makes sense. But as for that special socket, where would i find one and how much?

Many thanks

[Stocker]

Originally Posted by doctrouble

But as for that special socket, where would i find one and how much?

Originally Posted by MN Rooky

The spanner socket has 6 posts on it. I got it at Napa, part number KD2770.

[akubovic]

MN Rooky, Thank you for this thread, your pictures are a godsent for me, I have a '66 3/4 ton 2wd and thanks to your pics I think I know how to tackle the rear brakes on my chev.

[akubovic]

By the way do you know what size the socket for the spanner nuts?

[MN Rooky]

I don't know what size it is off hand. I will check tomorrow for you and let you know. Little update. The brake drums on mine were shot and at the cost of $240 each drum I couldn't afford to replace them. I ended up swapping the rear end out for a 14 bolt for $100.

[onlyifihadachevy]

Yea when i ended up putting brakes on The first set was wrong, and cheap like a 100 bucks and 50 for the clyinder, then we got the right one, then the bill came 300 for the drums and shoes and 88 for a cylinder and that was a discount, no labor i did it myself. Next time i'm getting a disc brake kit.

[MN Rooky]

The spanner socket has 6 posts on it. I got it at Napa, part number KD2770.