65 Fuel Gauge - No workie!

[69MPG]

Does any one know if the stock fuel gauge can be fixed? Or is it cheaper to put in an after-market one? Mine seems to be stuck on "F" (won't that be nice). I checked out the sending unit and it's working, I also checked it to the gauge and it has voltage and resistance.

Also, what is the stock color of the dash, can I match it?

Thanks Guys

[vin63]

You may have something simple as a loose wire, or connector right behind the gauge. If you pull the instrument cluster, check to make sure the needle isn't hanging up on something. If it's not, check all of the connectors at the gauge. It just could be something got loose, or some corrosion is not permitting current.

[billydonn]

Here is some advice I would follow. Look at the second one first:

First, does the gauge go to empty when you turn off the key? If no, the gauge is bad. If yes, ground the sender terminal of the dash gauge. If it goes to empty, the gauge is good. If it doesn't the gauge is bad.

If the gauge is good, run a separate ground wire to the tank (clean a spot down to bright metal). If the gauge goes down, you found the problem. If no change, ground the tank end of the sender lead. If the gauge goes down now, the sender is suspect and you will have to pull it out of the tank for a test. If no change, you have a break in the wire between the dash gauge and the tank.

Source= Ray from another board


Open circuit - gauge will read full.
Grounded circuit - the gauge will read empty.

THe most common reason for a gauge to read full is the sensor wire gets unplugged at the fuse panel. At the very bottom of the fuse panel, you will see a place marked fuel. There is a brown wire somewhere nearby (possibly under the floor mat) that plugs into the space on the fuse panel. That will normally fix it.

If it isn't that - then the wire is broken somewhere between the fuse panel and the tank or the ground came off the tank. Replace the wire or ground the sensor.

Source= Vaughn on another board

[greg64]

Great list of ideas, billydonn. You saved me typing all that stuff out myself! If I were a betting man, I'd bet the wire between the gauge and tank is shot long before I'd bet on the gauge itself being bad.

[1966-Suburban-V-8]

Great work on the troubleshooting ideas, guys. Hope it's easy to fix.
Regarding the paint - Color is Fawn, it's available at an automotive paint supplier, or can be ordered online.
If you pull the dash cluster, I bet your tach could be mounted in the panel on the right side.

Dan

[69MPG]

Great information!, I did check the wires at the gauge and it is not shorted, it has about 25 ohms, which should be about 1/4 tank.


1966-Suburban-V-8: Thanks for the paint info and the Tack idea.


You guys Rock! I love this site....

[protrash64]

My 'burb has the same issue.........thanx for the info billydonn.

[greg64]

Originally Posted by 69MPG

Great information!, I did check the wires at the gauge and it is not shorted, it has about 25 ohms, which should be about 1/4 tank.


1966-Suburban-V-8: Thanks for the paint info and the Tack idea.


You guys Rock! I love this site....

Wait a sec... the senders in these trucks were 0-30 ohms, so 25 ohms may read nearly full. The 0-90 ohm ones came later, but I'm not sure which year they changed.

[NF65Fleetside]

not to thread jack but I got a 30ohm Autometer guage and when the tanks full it only goes to about right under half way....anybody know how to fix that?

[Tomsriv]

The fuel gauge has a resistor that runs across the back. Over time the white resistance stuff disintigrates. I got lucky and found one that is still decent. I restored all my original gauges and got them working again. I added a couple other gauges to the dummy gauge holes. Its not perfect, but its a truck. I like the clean look, without gauges hanging everywhere.

[64chevkev]

Originally Posted by Tomsriv

The fuel gauge has a resistor that runs across the back. Over time the white resistance stuff disintigrates. I got lucky and found one that is still decent. I restored all my original gauges and got them working again. I added a couple other gauges to the dummy gauge holes. Its not perfect, but its a truck. I like the clean look, without gauges hanging everywhere.

Wow I never new there was that much difference between the 64 and 65 instrument clusters. I like how you put the tach in as well. Looks awesome.

Anyway I was wondering if anyone has ever heard of a sender working properly out of the tank but as soon as it is in fuel/tank it reads full. I have tried some checks from another board but cant get it to work once it is in the tank. The ground is hooked up in the same place with a wire to one of the mounting screws to the frame just like when I tried it outside the tank (and it worked). Is it possible the sender/rheostat might be faulty?? All the wiring is new and the sender is as well. I just cant figure it out why it works properly out of the tank but not in it? I did find out that the sender is a 240-33 ohm would this make a difference whether it works properly in or out of the tank?? This has me baffled.

[SkylineNXS]

Hey i just did the same thing Tom did today, very nice. Did u have to cut out part of the back plate for the right hand side? Nice job....i used a tach that only sweeps like 100 degrees to avoid cutting...ill have to get some pics...

BRAD

[LILRED66]

You can't beat the look of a factory tach in the 4-5-6 Chevy trucks. I have had several of them and they look cool.

[joe231]

Originally Posted by 64chevkev

Wow I never new there was that much difference between the 64 and 65 instrument clusters.

As far as i know the 4-5-6 dashes are the same. difference is between the the gauges and idiot lights

[jonzcustomshop]

so if you ae running a modern 0-90 ohm sender with an old 0-30 ohm guage, would the tank just read full until it was almost empty...?
I have a rear mounted tank out of an 1985, and a guage from a 60-63 that just reads full right now, the tank is about 3/4 full, but the guage stays at full all the time, and the needle just moves about a millimeter when you turn the ignition on and off.

[jesseo]

Originally Posted by Tomsriv

The fuel gauge has a resistor that runs across the back. Over time the white resistance stuff disintigrates. I got lucky and found one that is still decent. I restored all my original gauges and got them working again. I added a couple other gauges to the dummy gauge holes. Its not perfect, but its a truck. I like the clean look, without gauges hanging everywhere.

Do you know where I can get a stock tach or stock reman or remake tach?

[Rich 5150 69]

Originally Posted by jesseo

Do you know where I can get a stock tach or stock reman or remake tach?

Early Classic Enterprises sells them..
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