Found New Truck

[1971ChevyTruck]

I found a 1975 4x4 Shortbed w/ factory 3/4 ton axles. I never knew they made a factory 4x4 3/4 ton 4x4. The sticker in the glovebox says that they did. My only question is the transfer case is not shifting...as the truck had been sitting awhile...Any ideas on how to loosen it up?? Is there a factory greese fitting?? Not bad for a $600 truck...mew front fenders, new doors, floor is in good shape, nice flat bed and runs pretty good.

[mod58]

You might want measure the wheel base,From the pictures it looks like a long bed truck to me,but maby I need glasses??? Looks real good for the money though !!!!!!!

[CNC]

Are the new fenders and doors on the truck? Those look like they faded with the cab....

[1LoC10]

looks real nice, but looks like a longbed to me

[71swb4x4]

It looks like a longbed frame to me too.

[1971ChevyTruck]

Its only a 6' bed. The reason it looks faded is becasue it only has epoxy primer on it right now. I just drove it home and it averaged 11 mpg at 60mph...for 110 miles. I checked it out more when I got home and the motor has too of been rebuilt not too long ago. It has all new gaskets and seals, new fuel pump, new intake, chrome valve covers and chrome oil pan. It maintains 40 pounds of oil pressure. It also has all new rear brakes, drums, lines and everything. Not a bad buy at all.

[old Rusty C10]

as to your question to this try liquid wrench on the linkage from underneath then wd40 and see if that helps

it is a nice looking truck tho

[1971ChevyTruck]

Thanks I'll try that...This thing needs some wheels and tires...maybe a 4" lift kit...

[abebummy26]

Nvm

[joe231]

the bed that is on it is 6 feet?
the distance from the back of the cab to the rear axle screams longbed.
the flat bed could be shorter because it doesn't hang out back as far as a factory beds do

from the pics those hubs lead me to believe your truck might be full time 4wd.
I saw a mid 70's 3/4 ton full time 4wd, pretty cool, you can't shift them out of 4wd.
there is a differential built into the t-case to work on dry roads/ground so the drivetrain doesn't bind from the front and rear axles turning at different speeds

[f.monroe]

That is a nice truck , especially at that price but it is a long wheel base truck . I think you are measuring the bed and confusing it with the wheelbase . The trucks are measured in wheelbase and that one is a long wheel base truck . The bed may be short , but the wheelbase is long . Nice truck either way .
Frank

[1971ChevyTruck]

Your all right...wheel base is 133"...Longbed with a 6' flat bed. It just looks odd...the spring hangers are so close to the back of the frame.

[1971ChevyTruck]

Yes it's full time 4wd...now a question...can you put lock outs on these to change that??

[72BlckButy]

Looks like a nice score!

[joe231]

Originally Posted by 1971ChevyTruck

Yes it's full time 4wd...now a question...can you put lock outs on these to change that??

sorry, no you can't.
here is the story on the one I worked on. it belonged to my shop manager's friend's dad in Anchorage. Anchorage has emission tests. some one got the idea that the truck had a souped up engine in it and wanted the truck put on a dyno before they would pass it, problem was that the only dyno available was a 2wd dyno. couldn't very well check it on that seeing how you can't take it out of 4wd. so I had the idea to just disconnect the front drive shaft. well with the front shaft out it wouldn't move. it is truly like there is an open rear differential in the t-case, if you get one wheel off the ground with an open rear end what happens, nothing but the wheel in the air spins, so with the front shaft disengaged all the power goes to the front output on the t-case and the truck goes no where. so you would have to change out the t-case and hubs to have a selectable 2wd to 4wd.
dunno what ever happened with the one in Ak.

[Jtrux]

I think the name of the "hubs" on your truck are actually called drive flanges. Just an FYI I guess.

[joe231]

Originally Posted by Jtrux

The hubs on that thing look strange, like dust covers on a 2wd. I've never heard of a 3/4ton 1/2ton. Some things just don't make sense to me.

huh?

[Jonboy]

There is a conversion to make the 203 a part time 4wd transfer case. The kit is not hard to install, but it's been years since I have done one. They used to be about $200 or so with the lockouts.

[mod58]

I found out the hard way on how a full time 203 case works!! My older brother had a 76 Blazer with full time 4-wheel drive,He told me to take off the front drive shaft,So me being only 14 at the time,I pulled the truck up on the ramp that went into the our packing house on the farm.I removed the straps on the front yoke and then wacked it with a hammer!!!!!Well the next thing I know I'm under the truck on a creeper and the truck takes off down the ramp with me in tow!!!!! Well I road it out and luckilly it didn't hit me or any thing when it came to a stop!!!But you can put locking hubs on the front,you will just have to run the t-case in hi-lock.The last part time kit I saw for that t-case was about $80.00 with the hubs,Good luck with your ride !!!!!!!

[1971ChevyTruck]

Ouch...I found a conversion kit for $80 so I think I'm going that route

[Jtrux]

Originally Posted by joe231

huh?

Yeah I edited my post cuz I realized the error. I was under the impression that it was a SWB then reread all the posts and realized it wasn't. My bad.

[LONGHAIR]

You can indeed put a conversion kit in these transfer cases as previously stated. In fact it is fairly rare to see one that has not already been converted.
But to address your question, the shifter:
The conversion kit has nothing to do with the shifter at all as far as the install.
The shifer is a very complicated "box" of levers and springs. It does not take much in the way of contamination (mud/water/grit) to make one stick.
It is a pretty simple thing to remove it from the front of the transfer case and "go through it".
When you get it out, clamp the mounting bracket in a vise laying on it's side.
Remove the shift lever, this makes it far easire to "balance" the parts when you take the cover off. There are only 2 bolts and a "bend tab" that hold it together. Inside are the shift levers and a few spacers/plates. A simple clean-up with some solvent, a light coat of some grease, and re-assemble are all it should need. The "gunk" stops the "kicker" from moving the second lever.
When you put it back into the truck, be sure to test the adjustment of the linkage. When the shifter is "centered", the linkage should slide in easily. If not loosen the jamb nuts and adjust them so that they do.
As I said before, it is pretty complicated in there, so be sure to put it back just like it was. Some pics of the disassembly might be a good idea?

If I had one, I could do a step by step photo guide for this......Anybody have one that they want fixed? or a junker to give for the cause?