Laying frame 68 C10 need help

[ls1chevy]

hey guys i need some help!!!! im new to this site and im starting my new build its a 68 c10 swb and im planning on laying fame on 20s in front and 22s in the rear. im gonna be doing all the work myself in the drive way i have all the tools. but the thing is ive never bagged a truck before and feel like its going to be a head ache ive searched around and tryed to gather all the information i could find but im still not sure on a few things. i know that im going to need a dropmember up front because i dont want to have to z the frame. im going to keep the stock control arms up front for now and im doing a 5 lug conversion with 2.5 drop spindles. i have the slam specialties Re-7s 7inch for the front and the bag plates on the way from suicide doors im also going to buy there step notch for the rear.

Questions:

am i going to be able to lay frame with the stock trailing arms in the rear?
and should i use a 7 inch bag in the rear or 8?

and getitng that low what about the pinion angle?

i have many more questions but its late so ill ask later

anyhelp on this would be great. thanks

[PBFAB.COM]

Originally Posted by ls1chevy

Questions:

am i going to be able to lay frame with the stock trailing arms in the rear?
and should i use a 7 inch bag in the rear or 8?

and getitng that low what about the pinion angle?

i have many more questions but its late so ill ask later

anyhelp on this would be great. thanks

The factory trailing arms will not allow you to fully lay out with a 22" wheel (or a 15" wheel)... without modifying the frame-rails (they will contact the frame leaving the rails several inches off the ground).

I would recommend using the 7" bag in the rear IF you intend to keep your trailing arms. If you go with afour-link type suspension I am a fan of the tapered sleeved bags for the rear (Forestone F9000).

The pinion angle may need some adjustment, but another issue you may want to think about is the axle and wheel centerline being sucked forward due to the angle of the trailing arms.

You may want to look into some type of four link set-up for the rear... it might make it easier to accomplish the end results you are after.

[N2TRUX]

ls1chevy-Post pics if you have any...

[ls1chevy]

What 4 link kits are you guys running?

[ls1chevy]

heres some pictures i just pulled it out of storage its been sitting for the last 3 years.

idk if this is a dumb question or not but im about to pull the trailing arms and every thing of the rear end and ill be welding in my notch and boxing the frame next week but ive read around and im setting the fame 7 inches of the ground for ride height. whats the easyiest way to get the rear end centered were it should be when i place it on jackstands when i start setting up the Triangulated 4 link. and how hard is it to install one of theses like i said in my first post ive never done this kind of setup and i dont have any other help with this truck.

[RunninLo]

For my 72 burb I went with the Porterbuilt piece to match the front. It's solid and basically bolt in. Nate is a class act too but his sense of time only reads in "two weeks"
I have used ART,art Morrison, FBI, and even *gasp* Chassis Tech 4 links all with good results. It's just like anything else. do you want out of the box bolt on or something generic you'll need to modify for your needs?

I do also like the KP 6 link canti but sadly to my knowlege they haven't gotten the kinks worked out on the 67-72 kit yet. I do like the fact that you can change out the links on the cantilever for different rim sizes in case you ever upgraded.

One trick I used to use in my minitruck days was to take an old u-bolt slung under the axle on each side and then tacked to the frame. The axle would "hang" in the u blots and you could shift side to side as well as adjust pinion angle

Josh