Watts link install.

[onebad65c10]

Installation of KP komponets Watts link in a 1965 Chevrolet C-10.
The truck this is being installed on is My 65 c10 that has been air bagged with firestone 2600's out back. The truck also features a Classic Performance bolt in c-notch that has been welded and smoothed.
This is a sight that I am sure many of you 60-72 owners are familiar with the stock two link with a panard bar.




Here is the kit laid out to check for all the parts. It is a nicely constructed piece that comes powder coated.



All the hardware is grade 8


First step was to install the center bell crank in to the rear pumpkin cage.



Next I had to remove the stock panard bar bracket by cutting the rivets and using an air hammer.





Next the cage was bolted to the rear differential using the supplied hardware.



Next the links were assembled and put in to test for articulation and placement of weld in plates.



The only welding was because I have the stock frame in the rear.


Here is a final install picture after the welds cool and ground down, and everything was undercoated.

This picture is at full lift.



This picture is full drop. Through the whole range of motion the rear end only moves about a quarter inch.



I don't know if I have posted a pic with the new wheels, so here it is. The are the full size 4 wheel drive Gm rallies and chrome center caps. I do have the trim rings on them now. The tires are 245/60/R15 Bf Goodrich Radial T/A.

[shortbed70]

Do you have any problems with pumpkin hitting bed floor? I am also going to do 2600 in the rear on my 65

[onebad65c10]

Originally Posted by shortbed70

Do you have any problems with pumpkin hitting bed floor? I am also going to do 2600 in the rear on my 65

It did when it was first installed. I had to grind a little bit out of my wood. Also my bed floor is raised an inch and a half. if there is someone standing in the bed when lowered it just barley lifts the floor. Something I was thinking about doing is getting a rear cover and use it for the extra space. Something like a S10 rear.

[daverod]

Sweet I'm just posting so I'll be able to find it again. I'm just getting ready to mess with mine.

[daverod]

I thought I got it. Now I'm confussed again. How does a watts link work? Anyone, anyone, You said It only move 1/4" thought the whole range of motion. What motion? The axle in relation to what? I'm lost Please someone beat this into my head. I want to know. Never mind I learned somthing new today.

[daverod]

If you did'nt have a watts link and were just using a pan bar how much would it move your axle over? What would it hit?

[onebad65c10]

Originally Posted by daverod

If you did'nt have a watts link and were just using a pan bar how much would it move your axle over? What would it hit?

I think it was over 2 inches. My tire would hit my stock rear wheel well.

[daverod]

Well, I guess I better start looking for a watts link. Thanks

[onebad65c10]

Originally Posted by daverod

Well, I guess I better start looking for a watts link. Thanks

Here you go.


http://www.kplinks.com/product.php?p...5&cat=5&page=1

[daverod]

And another side job. I'm getting it.

[onebad65c10]

know that feeling. I bought mine with my tax money. Money well spent.

[hotrodhomi]

I have the same one on my 2wd blazer.

[blue64]

speedway has one for 69.99 not exactly the same but should work. its a universal so it will need modification to the rods.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by onebad65c10

I think it was over 2 inches. My tire would hit my stock rear wheel well.

No disrespect intended, but 2" of side shift seems excessive even for an OE Panhard set-up within 'normal' limits of suspension travel (Bag @ ride height vs. fully compressed/extended). A better comparison would be the Watt's vs. a long/full chassis width Panhard bar.

[62gmc910]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

No disrespect intended, but 2" of side shift seems excessive even for an OE Panhard set-up within 'normal' limits of suspension travel (Bag @ ride height vs. fully compressed/extended). A better comparison would be the Watt's vs. a long/full chassis width Panhard bar.

YEP the grumpy old chassis builder would have to agree
When is some body (capt'n) gonna fab up a jacobs ladder???

[CSoliz]

Jacobs ladder? What would that look like?

[62gmc910]

[SCOTI]

I've heard references of the Jacobs ladder but have never seen one installed in a vehicle. Any pics post installation?

[62gmc910]

The only thing I have is in old chassis books
Both of these installs have too steep of angles

[low79fx]

Do you have any problems with this wheels in the back as far as rubbing on the quarter panels.I'm going to run a set on some BFG 255/60-15.Was just wondering.

[Hottrucks]

hey one bad any rattling going on with the watts link?? I know from the past that heim joint tend to get noisey......my old duece was terible till I change to rubber ends....

and what happens to the lip around the stock cover??

[lakeroadster]

I would agree with Hottrucks as far as using steel rod ends in a street application. I have them on my Model A triangulated 4 bar set-up. MIne don't rattle but they do transmit a lot of noise through the bars and up into the frame. Urethane or rubber works better in a street application.

Educate me on this: For a street driven truck what is the advantage of the watts link over the standard panhard bar? I know the watts link keeps the rear end "perfectly" centered but is that really needed for a street driven truck? Wouldn't an adjustable panhard bar be "good enough".

Thanks,

[Hottrucks]

Lake my consern is the wheels rubbing the fender somewhere either inside or out not only that but with air your never in the same place twice so a watts will keep it centered all the time...if it was static then a P bar is great.....If I don't do a watts I'm going to move the Pbar to the back of the trailing arm..the longer the less side travel

[lakeroadster]

Hottrucks.. I may see the wisdom of the watts link myself here when I get my bomber on the highway this spring.

The rear tires on my truck are 33x12.5x15 and they are so close to the inner fender lip that I plan to cut the lip in half and then weld in some solid round bar to gain some additional space. This should provide for a solid smooth surface if I do have any rubbing when pulling into uneven driveways or other steep approach angled attack areas.

I like the look of almost no fender hanging out past the tire but it does come with it's "opportunities".

I have a static drop and a stock panhard bar. We'll see how things pan out once all the pieces finally come together.

[Hottrucks]

Lake theres a post about rolling your fenders a bit ..I don't know where but I may have to do it myself I had my stock rallies cut and added 4" to the back space but with the 30X18.5x15 tire I think it will be close so I may have to roll the fender lip a bit.....