Clear Redwood Planks...for a bed-floor ??

[ChiefRocka]

We just removed this 30-40 yr old one-piece tilt style garage door. The entire thing is painted with several coats of paint on the outside...but look at the inside.....

It was built out of clear redwood 1x6 planks....it looks nice on the inside.

What you think about a bed floor out of this ??

It's free, and gonna get dumped (all of our old garage doors get trucked down to Mexico)

Redwood is not the tuffest wood...but clear, virually knot free stuff is expensive these days...

I got 16'X7' feet of it too....mabey enough to do two long-beds.... Just gonna use my sawsall, and cut along the nails to remove it off the frame...

Think it'll work ??
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Here's a pic of the bottom of it (inside) still sitting on my work-truck:
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another:
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Hell of lot better than this:
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Opinions ?? Either this, or I would try that composite deck stuff...but you have to pay for that...this is free !!

[SCOTI]

Free is the best price when trying something out. If it doesn't work as well as you hoped, you're only out your effort.

[ChiefRocka]

Thats what I was thinking.....

Anyone else ??

I have nothing going on in the morning, so I'll take my cordless sawzall, new blade, and a couple of batterys and I'm going to town...

Anyone know what the width is of the stock stuff ??

[Captainfab]

I say do it. Yeah redwood is kind of soft, but is that really going to be an issue with the intended use of your '63? Like Scot said if you don't like way it turns out you're only out your time.

[terd ferguson]

You can make that look really nice. And if you're concerned about it being too soft, you can just lay down a sheet of plywood when hauling stuff.

[monolith]

It's beautiful, I wouldn't hesitate at all to build a bed out of that.
Rough cut a few of the planks- lay them down the middle to see if you like the look, maybe. If you go with the planks, you can always get one of those plastic hallway carpet protectors to roll out to protect the bed- might be less cumbersome and damaging to the finish than sliding a hunk of plywood in and out.

[retodd7711]

Go for it!
Try out some different finishes on scrap pieces first.
A honey/polyeurethane would really bring out that grain.
If you could find a cheap area rug, cut it to fit for hauling.

[Byronic]

You can't beat FREE That will be the first garage door bed I've heard of. I use indoor/outdoor carpet for the inside of my panel. The rubber backing can withstand moisture and abuse.

[62 short step]

I say do it, that will be one fine bed floor! Best of all FREE!!

[ChiefRocka]

Cool guys...it's about 5:30 am and I'm off to do that !!!

[4dranch]

with all the coats of paint on the other side I would say that should be enough to protect it from the water on the under side..A Buddy of mine uses an old peice of conveyor belt when he hauls stuff. Nice score John..

[apachedaddy]

I say go for it, it cant be any softer than the yellow pine i got from M-KAY gave me (well that i paid for lol). I think that would look great cleaned up and clear coated.

[rickf]

Originally Posted by apachedaddy

I say go for it, it cant be any softer than the yellow pine i got from M-KAY gave me (well that i paid for lol). I think that would look great cleaned up and clear coated.

Actually redwood is quite a bit softer than yellow pine, though how much softer depends on which yellow pine since there are several wood varieties all called yellow pine.

But go for it anyway, use a sheet of plywood (or whatever, as several have suggested) to protect it for "real hauling". I'd put four of those metal thread inserts (large wood thread on outside, machine screw thread on inside) in suitable places so the plywood could be attached with, say 1/4 or 5/16 flathead screws so it doesn't get airborne on the road, but still easy to put in and take out.

Here is a link to a page with a wood harness scale.
http://www.woodsthebest.com/wood/jan...dnessScale.htm

[Chevy Fleetside]

As said it is a soft wood but it is also a springy wood. I only see it being a problem by the wheel wells if you were to haul something, and of course it will gouge real easy. Also some of the boards on the bed are wider then what you have but you might be able to get it to work. They also crack and break real easy because they are soft.

[mbgmike]

I love red wood. Splinters come out easy. The only thing is red wood turns real dark if the finish gets damaged. Turns like black. If you use a rubber mat or something itshould work. Clear knotfree redwood is really expensive. Use it for something else if it doesn't work out.

[ChiefRocka]

Thanks guys for the info...

I knew about the softness....but you can't beat FREE...and it'll probably be temporary anyway.

We get these redwood doors everyonce and a while....Some of the planks are turning a little black....Although it doesn't rot.

Not planning on haul'n engine blocks, gravel, etc. in this truck....if I do, I could always cover with something.


Here's some pics of what I did this morning....Current bed...(btw, the hubcap is free, just pay for shipping !! )
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Taken apart the old 16X7:
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I came up with plenty of material...for being nailed up for years, it came apart pretty easy...some of it split, but I have enough...
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Not shown, is another stack of about 10 pieces...some shorter ones for around the tubs...
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When the time comes, I'll prep the planks, and throw them in.

Thanks guys

[63 & 64 Bowties]

Wow, that's beauuuuuuuuuuutiful.

[4dranch]

That's gonna look slick John...

[ChiefRocka]

Originally Posted by 63 & 64 Bowties

Wow, that's beauuuuuuuuuuutiful.

Originally Posted by 4dranch

That's gonna look slick John...

Thanks...

Now just gotta sand it all down..fill in some nail holes, and mabey stain ??

It can't be that hard.....or can it ??

Pops and his brother are old-school wood workers, so they'll be able so shoot me in the right direction.

Not sure if the metal strip are under the plywood or not...I'm assuming not.

Probalby wont need them anyway ?

[63 & 64 Bowties]

Originally Posted by ChiefRocka

Thanks...

Pops and his brother are old-school wood workers, so they'll be able so shoot me in the right direction.

Hey John, I'm not a wood worker, but I'd highly recommend (from personal experience) using Marine Spar Varnish as your last two coats. Home Depot and Lowes don't sell it, you have to go to a professional paint store to get it. It's what they used on wood boats years ago. So, it's gotta be the best outdoor protection. I used it on my 63 and 64, it's tough as nails.

[4dranch]

John,
You need something between the planks, it helps with any swelling. Just a thought.

[steverino66]

Originally Posted by ChiefRocka

Thanks...
Now just gotta sand it all down..fill in some nail holes, and mabey stain ??

Chief-
I just did a hardwood kitchen floor last year, and every time the dog takes a hard corner I touch it up with a yellow magic marker type thing sold by Minwax at the home stores - draw it on and wipe it off; different shades available, maybe $5, works great mixing it with putty to fill holes also. Worth a try on a scrap of that gorgeous wood for the nail holes. Good luck!

[ChiefRocka]

Originally Posted by 63 & 64 Bowties

Hey John, I'm not a wood worker, but I'd highly recommend (from personal experience) using Marine Spar Varnish as your last two coats. Home Depot and Lowes don't sell it, you have to go to a professional paint store to get it. It's what they used on wood boats years ago. So, it's gotta be the best outdoor protection. I used it on my 63 and 64, it's tough as nails.

Cool man...Defiantely gonna look into that...

Originally Posted by 4dranch

John,
You need something between the planks, it helps with any swelling. Just a thought.

These planks are shiplap...so I was planning on getting them in there tite...

Originally Posted by steverino66

Chief-
I just did a hardwood kitchen floor last year, and every time the dog takes a hard corner I touch it up with a yellow magic marker type thing sold by Minwax at the home stores - draw it on and wipe it off; different shades available, maybe $5, works great mixing it with putty to fill holes also. Worth a try on a scrap of that gorgeous wood for the nail holes. Good luck!

Hmm, sound good man, thanks for the info.

[padresag]

"""These planks are shiplap...so I was planning on getting them in there tite...""""---- you don't want them in there tight as if the pick up moisture they will hump, leave clearance.
Shiplap is meant to go on with clearance so it can expand and contract
ron

[monolith]

Save some sawdust and mix it in with your glue to fill the nailholes for an almost invisible repair.

I can't wait to see the finished bed, glad you're gonna give it a shot!