Question on stock gauge types

[BR3W CITY]

So I'm about to go ahead and order my new set of gauges, but I am not 100% sure on the correct gauge types. I.E. mechanical or electric. Its like -10wc in WI right now, and my garage is unheated......so investigative disassembly isn't happing.

So the stock gauges are:
Fuel level - electric
Volts - electric
Water temp - electric?
Oil psi - mechanical
Speedo - mechanical

Am I right or wrong? (Trucks a 66, non tach, non clock)

[BMSJaX]

I'm not sure but I would go with electric either way. It is easier in the long run, though initially it may require rewiring and installing the sensors.

[LILRED66]

Are you ordering new reproduction factory gauges or are you trying to decide on aftermarket electric or mechanical gauges?

[BR3W CITY]

Ordering after market oens; the main one im worried about is water temp.
I already have the tubing inthe truck for oil psi, so ill keep that one mech.
All of my previous vehicles have had electric water temp, and I think that would be better that running hot coolant into the truck

[BMSJaX]

Originally Posted by BR3W CITY

Ordering after market oens; the main one im worried about is water temp.
I already have the tubing inthe truck for oil psi, so ill keep that one mech.
All of my previous vehicles have had electric water temp, and I think that would be better that running hot coolant into the truck

I recommend NOT running tubing for oil into the cab! My buddy had it that way in his '65 Mustang and the fitting on the back of the gauge came loose and suddenly there was hot oil shooting into the car. All that was needed was for him to have been smokin at the time, freak out, drop the cig and we'd have been toasty critters. He was wearing shorts and burned his legs which also almost made us crash... just not worth the possible outcome to use mechanical oil OR fuel press. gauges in the cab

[65Custom]

I agree with BMSJax you don't want to run the mechanical gauges inside with out eh proper equipment.

Auto meter has the proper part to run mechanical gauges inside the cabin of your ride, basically it is sort of an isolator that keeps the hot oil out side. The Temp gauge can be mechanical because they use a capillary tube which is safe unless you kink it or crack it open but then your gauge will stop working properly anyway the rest would be electrical

http://www.autometer.com/cat_accessories.aspx?sid=56

[Captainfab]

If you use the copper line instead of the plastic line with a mechanical oil pressure gauge, you shouldn't have any issues.

[blackedoutharley]

Originally Posted by BMSJaX

I recommend NOT running tubing for oil into the cab! My buddy had it that way in his '65 Mustang and the fitting on the back of the gauge came loose and suddenly there was hot oil shooting into the car. All that was needed was for him to have been smokin at the time, freak out, drop the cig and we'd have been toasty critters. He was wearing shorts and burned his legs which also almost made us crash... just not worth the possible outcome to use mechanical oil OR fuel press. gauges in the cab

Ummmmm? Unless he was smoking something the size of a tree that had been soaked in gas I think (actually I know for a fact) that this is a huge exaggeration.

Originally Posted by 65Custom

I agree with BMSJax you don't want to run the mechanical gauges inside with out eh proper equipment.

Auto meter has the proper part to run mechanical gauges inside the cabin of your ride, basically it is sort of an isolator that keeps the hot oil out side. The Temp gauge can be mechanical because they use a capillary tube which is safe unless you kink it or crack it open but then your gauge will stop working properly anyway the rest would be electrical

http://www.autometer.com/cat_accessories.aspx?sid=56

That isolator is for fuel pressure gauges mounted inside the vehicle as they rely upon "wet" fuel for a proper pressure reading (yes they work for oil and antifreeze as well but in our applications they are highly unneeded). The isolator keeps the fuel out of the drivers compartment.

Guys, on the factory gauge package in our trucks that have actual gauges the oil pressure is mechanical.... which means that the "firebomb" you have described has always been there.

As far as a mechanical temp gauge having a "capillary tube".... wrong. There is no coolant running from the engine to the gauge. There is a mechanical probe that is threaded into either the head or intake and it measures the coolant temp and tranfers that reading to the gauge.

?

I prefer mechanical gauges when possible because there are no electrical sensors which can fail and send an incorrect reading.

[BR3W CITY]

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUN-CP7975/

one gauge I saw; on the description it says "includes 6ft capilary tubing"

[Chevy Fleetside]

If you are going to go with aftermarket gauges, I would probably go with an electronic speedo. It can cost extra to get it sincronized to your tranny and stuff. One guy here wants $55 just to put the truck on the dyno. It would probably run up to $300 just to get the speedo sincronized up. http://www.tpigauges.com/products.htm and they are made in USA...

[protrash64]

I would have to agree with blackedoutharley; I love mechanical gauges 'cuz you thread in the sensors and your done. Period. Hook up the lighting; very easy 'cuz you usually have 3-6 gauges.....pigtail it all together and have one feed and one good ground. Voltmeter is the only electrical and its simple with any keyed feed.

[BMSJaX]

Originally Posted by blackedoutharley

Guys, on the factory gauge package in our trucks that have actual gauges the oil pressure is mechanical.... which means that the "firebomb" you have described has always been there.

Just cause it was stock doesnt mean its safest or that its not a better idea to go electrical.

Originally Posted by protrash64

I would have to agree with blackedoutharley; I love mechanical gauges 'cuz you thread in the sensors and your done. Period. Hook up the lighting; very easy 'cuz you usually have 3-6 gauges.....pigtail it all together and have one feed and one good ground. Voltmeter is the only electrical and its simple with any keyed feed.

This is true mechanical gauges are easy/cheaper/more accurate. I have electric gauges in my cab and I have a set of mechanical gauges under the hood(volt/oil press/water temp) That way I can see whats going on accurately while I'm under the hood workin or if I think one of my guages in the cab is giving a false reading.

Simple and safe

[BMSJaX]

And sorry I did not mean to imply that if you run mechanical gauges your car will explode into a big ball of fire. Just meant to show that with the right circumstances there is a chance of damage and injury if you are not careful. I prefer the thought that 'safest is better than safe enough'. In fact I have a fire extinguisher mounted in my cab as well, which I get alot of crap for for some reason. But if I ever need it its there, which is much better than wishin I had had one after I needed it.

[Rich 5150 69]

I carry a fire extinguisher in mine as well, 20 some odd years ago I did save a f**d truck from burning up on the highway from a stuck float.....the owner was very happy..

[62gmc910]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

If you use the copper line instead of the plastic line with a mechanical oil pressure gauge, you shouldn't have any issues.

I am not trying to be a pain but the stock or for that matter any oil guage line is not made from copper tubing , the steel lines had a brass type coating on them to prevent corosion. Copper is prone to fatigue failure in this type of application , I learned this little bit of trivia the messy way. As for there being any danger from PROPPERLY installed mechanical feed line failures I think meteor strikes are more likely, but if you just slopp the line in, any thing is possible but so is fire from impropperly installed wires

[Captainfab]

I agree that the stock type steel line is superior to a copper line. However I guess I should have elaborated more. I was mainly referring to using the copper line on aftermarket gauges as opposed to the plastic/nylon line that comes with the pressure gauges. I've had the plastic/nylon lines get brittle from underhood heat and fail. I'm not aware of a source for a steel line that small, just the copper line kits from gauge manufacturers such as Autometer

Originally Posted by 62gmc910

I am not trying to be a pain but the stock or for that matter any oil guage line is not made from copper tubing , the steel lines had a brass type coating on them to prevent corosion. Copper is prone to fatigue failure in this type of application , I learned this little bit of trivia the messy way. As for there being any danger from PROPPERLY installed mechanical feed line failures I think meteor strikes are more likely, but if you just slopp the line in, any thing is possible but so is fire from impropperly installed wires

[62gmc910]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

I agree that the stock type steel line is superior to a copper line. However I guess I should have elaborated more. I was mainly referring to using the copper line on aftermarket gauges as opposed to the plastic/nylon line that comes with the pressure gauges. I've had the plastic/nylon lines get brittle from underhood heat and fail. I'm not aware of a source for a steel line that small, just the copper line kits from gauge manufacturers such as Autometer

I guess some one in the guage industry has found a workable alloy ergo I change my statement to .only use line provided by a reputable guage manufacturer . emphasis on reputable.

[wrench_65]

are the fuel sending units for the 65 30ohm or 90 ohm...gonna buy a fuel gauge since my dosnt work..

[LILRED66]

The factory fuel sending unit is 0-30 ohms. Most of the aftermarket fuel gauges and sending units are 0-90 ohms.

[Captainfab]

Are you sure it's the gauge and not the sending unit?

Originally Posted by wrench_65

are the fuel sending units for the 65 30ohm or 90 ohm...gonna buy a fuel gauge since my dosnt work..

[markeb01]

I've been running an Autometer mechanical oil pressure gauge in the dash for years. I also accidentally fractured the plastic line at the back of the block during a manifold swap, and pumped several quarts of oil all over the engine in a matter of seconds. That was a learning experience, and soon after added the braided stainless hose they offer.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ATM-3227/?rtype=10