1963 apache onto 81 k30 frame

[BigBlockBurby]

So for about 8 months I've had a totaled 63 pick up in my back yard waiting for a new lease on life. Ive been trying to find a frame for it (the rear end and bed are still mounted to the frame but its cut off after the bed, before the cab?) I havent been able to find anything decent, but then recently, an 81 k30 dually 4x4 fell into my lap. the beds gone, the cabs hacked, the hoods gone, fenders hacked, doors gone. but its dirt cheap, and I had an 85 cab laying around. Figured Id make it my new tow truck for my camper, flat bed n such. However, I dont fit very well in that cab, fit better in the 63. I was looking at the k30 frame and behind it i saw the 63. My question, what is needed to swap the 63 onto the k30 frame? the bed for the 63 is a long bed step side, and im told its kinda rare around here, so I don't want to hack the bed for the dually, so Im most likely gona run a custom flat bed. for now, Id like to just get the cab mounted on there, hook up steering and electricals, fire the truck up, if I can do laps around the block, ill be ecstatic. im still deciding whether or not to cut the floor for the 4 wheel shifter, looking into maybe some other sort of shift set up. The cab and doors are rust free, straight, and gona get a nice spray down with some satin black and my company logo on the side.

So, if anyone has the measurements, photo's, detailed instructionals, etc etc, Id greatly appreciate it. I mean, where I need to weld body mount plates on the frame, if it has to run a body lift, etc etc.

The trucks going to run a 454 TBI with a 4L80E full manual valve body matted to an NP205. im told the cab should clear the motor and trans easily. However, Im also planning later on down the road to maybe to a 6BT swap. Make it my ultimate pickemup, Stacks out the sides and up, beauty bar, etc etc.

I also have the complete front clip off anothe 63, so itd be great if you could provide the proper mounting for the front clip as well, with the radiator support and core support.

[LILRED66]

There are no "play-by-play" instructions on this swap, however, there may be someone, who has done this swap. Lots of testing fitting, measuring, cutting, test-fitting, etc., etc. Although not impossible, it will be quite an undertaking to do this swap. Good luck and perhaps, someone can offer some rough instructions on the process.

[jonzcustomshop]

check in the projects and builds section for joey~ap's K5 66
he used a modern frame.. the key to make the swap work is the slight body lift to get the cab to clear the 81's cross members.
I think you could fashion some sort of extention between the fenders and box to get the step fenders to work on a dually.
dont worry about the shifter, the whole tranny tunnel unscrews, so you could just find another one to cut up, and keep the original, or vise/versa.
looking forward to seeing the result!

[Captainfab]

I have done a similar swap before. I don't recommend it unless it's on a 4x4 since it requires a body lift. Back when I did this one (about 17 years ago), I didn't think to take many pics, so this is all I have right now. I intend to get a hold of the current owner to get more pics......someday.

[peterpan]

the wheel base is different the 80's chevy it is longer i have helped a buddy put a 65 cab and front clip on a 84 blazer frame but the wheel base was to short to put the bed on

and i have seen a nice 66 put on a shortened 80's short bed frame they are not really that hard to put on the newer frames

on my 63 i put it on a 70 4x4 frame and it was allmost a dirrect bolt on swap as the frames are very similar from 63 to 72 try finding one of those

[BigBlockBurby]

jonzcustomshop, I do expect to have to put a body lift in place, however I will keep it as small as possible, not a fan of them. I may look into the cummins swap to find out if a body lift is needed at all, if so, Ill knock it out now. Thank you, and Im hoping to get her started soon, depending on a few other bills, and some much needed repairs my daily driver 93 sub currently needs, I'll deffinately come back with photo's, details and measurements.

Captainfab, thank you for the photo's. That does give me an Idea of where abouts to start, is it possible (if you still have access to the truck) to maybe provide me with measurement from the core support mounts on the frame to the very front of the frame? Also, this truck will be a 4x4, I had a mis-hap last year, stuck in snow, closed road, miles from anything, no cell reception, from 8pm-7am. Had the truck I was in have had 4 wheel drive, I wouldn't have had a problem. I now purchase all 4 wheelers, unless Im planning on a rat rod (75 rat rod, finished and sold) Comfort issue.

peterpan, I know the wheel base is different, but I was told there was adjustments I could make, since I would have to cut off the frame mounts for the body mounts and relocate them anyways. I have sence decided not to use the bed, I will be having a friends shop fab a flat bed for me, I was planning on running stacks if i ever do the cummins swap, but something tells me I most likely will, and the bed is the best part of this truck, and I cant bare to just cut out the bed pan to run stacks, or modify the fenders to accept the dually rear end, so I think Ill keep it for a later project, maybe another rat rod. I actually can probably get a 1971 single cab long bed 4x4 chassis, 3/4 ton and everything, i believe the only thing missing is the front carrier and shafts, shes a roller, been sittin at a friends yard for a few months and hes been trying to get rid of it. Since Im going to go with a flat bed, All I have to worry about is mounting the cab and front clip, you say its almost a direct bolt on, do you know what kept it from being completely bolt on? cross members and frame mounts arent an issue, just lining it up is.

I have big hopes for this thing, once my tow trucks complete, I have to get everything that she needs to tow, my 71 monte's still sittin in storage up state, waiting for some love. Hehehehe.

Thank you to all your responses, please keep them coming!

[BigBlockBurby]

oops, forgot you LILRED66, thank you for the well wishes, and hopefully sooner wrather than later i'll be able to come back and give the rough instructions.

[Captainfab]

The '63 body will fit on that '71 K20 frame a whole lot better than the '81 K30 frame, and with less work. You could always switch the Dana 60 front and 14 bolt from the '81 to the '71 frame. The '67-'72 frames are only slightly different than the '63-'66 frames. The main differences are the front frame horns, the lower radiator mount crossmember, and the rear cab mount brackets. All of these can be transfered from the '63 frame easily. That would be my recommendation in light of the availability of the '71 rolling frame. If you decide to go with the '81 frame, I'll see if I can get some dimensions for you.

[BigBlockBurby]

Unfortunately, I don't have the front of the frame from the 63. It's cut off at the front of the bed, it was destroyed in the crash, the cab was luckily not disturbed by the collision.

[peterpan]

if you are not useing the bed you would not need to shorten the frame just build your bed to fit but if you can get a 67 to 72 it would be alot easier

its just the mount for the bumper that is different on the front of the frame you could find a junk 63 to 66 and cut the front frame horns off and weld them to the 67 to 72 frame pretty easy you only need about 3 to 4 inches of a 63 to 66 frame don't use a 60 to 62 cause they are different

change the rear cab mounts on the frame and the body will bolt right on the 67 to 72 frame

and the radiator for the 63 mounts to the cross member and in 67 to 72 trucks it mounts in the core suport you can swap the crossmember if you want to run the 63 radiator but it probably wont cool a cummins or a big block anyway

the bed will bolt right on as well as long as its the same bed length

i have a 63 on a 70 4x4 frame and i am putting another 63 on a 2x4 68 frame now

in 67 the frame was made for power steering so a power steering box from a 71 to 87 will bolt on (i was told that 67 and 68 trucks need a .025 shim between the frame and box but i can't say for sure on that yet)

the frames are pretty much the same from 63 to 72 just the above differences but it is real easy to swap bodies between 63 to 72 trucks

and 62 was the last year for the apache

[BigBlockBurby]

Im planning on either purchasing, or having a custom wincher bumper fabricated, would I be able to have build for the 67-72 frame and have the bumper sit flush still? Im looking to get the project rollin pretty quick. I'm gona be purchasing a 396 big block from a friend ( i believe ) along with a 4L80e with stand alone controller (so I can still tow my trailer for the better half of the summer time) plus im interested to see what a 750 edelbrock carb on a 396 pushes mpg wise with the overdrive.

[Captainfab]

If you're not going to use an original style bumper, the front frame horns won't matter. The winch bumper can be built to fit the '67-'72 frame horns, or you might be able to find one that someone builds for the '67-'72's. Seems like someone does, but I can't think of who at the moment. If I remember, I'll let you know.

[peterpan]

ya he is right it will only be a problem if you use the stock bumper with a winch bumper it wont matter
most winch bumpers i have seen bolt the the side of the frame

i put one off a 78 on my 63 that is on a 70 frame just drilled new holes

i would post pictures but i took it off and am going to put a stock bumper on it soon

your only problem will be the radiator and rear cab mounts

i would look at some dodge or ford truck radiators alot of them bolt to the core support and as long as the inlet and outlet are on the correct sides i think you could find a big enough radiator to cool a 396

and if you don't have the frame mounts off the 63 frame put your cab on bolt up the front get the cab sitting on and you might be able to modify the 67 to 72 ones to work or build your own

i have a camaro with a 396 it gets ok mileage but it still lets me know its a big block at the gas pump