What makes more sense?

[StevieC]

I got a 65 C10 Long Fleet, Big Window, 283, auto on the column.
It runs good but the body in general is in rough shape, just about every panel needs some work and some would be easier to replace.


I was looking for some bed panels but instead I found a whole 66 Long Fleet C10, Small Window, Stick on the floor, less motor, and no interior. The body on that is in good shape and has already been prepped and primed.
I can get it for less money than the bed panels alone for my truck.
What would make more sense?
Putting my drive train and interior in that truck or putting the body panels and bed I need from that one on mine?

What do you think?

[Indian113]

The quick fix is use your drive train,you can put your big window in that cab if you want.

[markeb01]

I agree, use the new truck with your drivetrain. Rust and body repair can cost more money and labor than everything else combined. Start with the best body and sheet metal you can get. Mechanical repairs are easy by comparison.

[iehotrod]

I agree it all make sense. It really comes down to what is easiest for you really. Big back window is the most desireable of the two. How is that cab? If that cab has less rust I would use that one. Thats a good starting point.

[Allensracing]

take the best condition and most desirable parts from both trucks, and make a really nice truck. the other truck can be sold or used as a beater work truck

[onequickchevy]

I agree with the mechanical swap, as long as the truck has a title. That can be more difficult than fixing the body, and sometimes as costly.

[StevieC]

Thanks guys

if I use my cab, interior and drive train on the new frame, front end and bed, can I use my existing pink slip and registation?

[67chevy1series]

yes

[gulffishin]

Sounds good, but do you know what's under that primer?...I bought my truck from someone who said it was "paint ready". I drove it for a while (runs good), then I decided I would start working on the body.I started sanding the primer off and found out the PO had bondo'd over a huge dent in the door, then the rust started... I started sanding everything and found the PO had bondo'ed over rust holes in the hood, cab corners, rocker panels, front fenders, rear fenders, tailgate...etc. then sprayed primer over what was left of the original paint, primer, surface rust etc.

Several hundred hours and hundreds of $ later I can say that my truck is officially rust free with the exception of the hood and tailgate.

My words of advice: Beware of primer or shiny paint.... there are some really good "sculpters" out there looking for a quick sale.