Anti-roll bar????

[rattleon]

OK, I need advice....I'm in the middle of setting up the rear suspension in my '70 short/step box. I'll be runnin' a rather mild 460 for starters w/built turbo 400 and a brake w/3500 stall. I'm installing a slightly narrowed 9" with a QA1 coil over setup and my stock, but beefed up trailing arms. I have installed an 8 point cage and will be running a 29.5/11.5 slick w/456 gears for starters.

I have no idea what this thing will run, but with the weight and mild motor I don't think I'll be pissin' my pants. This is a starting point and will be built/improved upon with time, but some things are better/easier to do now rather than latter... so without rattling on any further my question is for those that have ran or run an anti-roll bar setup or know how they do or don't work on our trucks.

"Overkill" do I need it? I know it's dang near impossible to answer, but what can I expect to gain on my 60ft. times with it vs. w/o? Is it street friendly? Recommendations on brand?

Thanks for any input

[Marv D]

The biggest reason I put a anti-roll in my 'car' was to correct a poorly set up suspension. I was getting body roll on a rather NARROW rear chassis (19" wide frame rails, 17" coilover mount to coilover mount) and had issues with the 4link being too high in the chassis. It did not really help the 60' time to go from...

http://www.small-block-chevy.com/casanova.jpg

to...

http://www.small-block-chevy.com/images/nova10.jpg

but it helped with hooking consistantly on a questionable track. When your doing the anti-roll it's like everything else. I bought 3 of the Jeggs antiroll kits, then one of the Alston kits, and only thing I didn't tear up the end links after one season was the MarkWilliams antiroll package. Get the SPLINED ENDS, not the bolt through. The bolt through is a joke if you 'need' a antiroll fixture.

[Super73]

I have a home made one.. Found 1 3/4" RV bushings and got some 1 3/4 .180" wall tubing. Cut some leverage arms from some 1/4" flat stock and welded it together. It attached to the frame with 5/8 rod ends. Cheap and functional but heavy.

I really leveled the truck out on launch. With the stocker from a 70's truck, the rearend wanted to rotate on a hard launch. When that happened I got a touch of tire spin putting me slightly cocked since the trailing arms are theoretically changing length.

[vin63]

If you ever step up in horsepower, it would be better to have installed it earlier...especially if you are doing other modifications now. I run an anti-roll bar in my Super Gas car, mainly for consistency at marginal race tracks since I was running a long instant center. But, you can always disconnect, or remove the links if you do not want to use the anti roll device, or if you go with the type I run, you can unbolt it and remove it from the chassis as a unit. Here is my anti roll device and my car...but, you can get similar ones from other manufacturers. At some of the national event tracks, I would sometimes remove my anti roll device.http://www.jerrybickel.com/rear-susp...-jbrc1038.html

[kpeztruck]

I would install an anti-roll bar. My truck resembled an old 409 with a four speed on launch, before the anti-roll bar. I was never able to leave on nitrous before, and no problem now. Paul

[rattleon]

Thanks for the input. It's helped me decide to go with it now rather than later. I did do the search thing and didn't find much on the anti-roll....so with that said the closest track to me is an outlaw 1/8th mile almost 2hrs. away with 2 more tracks 3+ hrs. away, so I want to stay somewhat streetable for now for the occasional weekend thing.
I've learned what to stay away from, but Is there a good, better, best setup for a duel application on these trucks? or are they all the same? I've seen over and under applications, but only over apps. on trucks.... Any pics?

[vin63]

Originally Posted by rattleon

I've seen over and under applications, but only over apps. on trucks.... Any pics?

Are you planning on not modifying your frame rails? If not, here is what I did on my stock width frame rails and 55-inch wide rearend housing. I used a left over splined torsion bar and aluminum arms (I did some work on dirt track modified cars in a previous life). I doubled the torsion bar housing as a crossmember.



You can get larger torsion bars and arms for heavier applications.

[68 C-10 KID]

rattleon,
You have one of the best track in your back yard. Fire Bird is a blast and there track prep is always on point!

[rattleon]

Originally Posted by 68 C-10 KID

rattleon,
You have one of the best track in your back yard. Fire Bird is a blast and there track prep is always on point!

Unfortunately it's in Boise which is on the other side of the state from us. There's quite the hot rodding community over there which is one of the reasons why I/we want to relocate to that area..The wife just wants to be closer to the kids and family