Wheel bearing question?

[mcbassin]

I finally got around to taking my son's 86 to get the alignment done. I put it off and then just forgot about it. Well his tires on the front are pretty worn on the inside (my stupidity). I never drive the truck so I never thought about it again. Anyway, the guy at the shop put it on the rack and jacked up the front. He checked the ball joints (pass. lower side is toast), the tie rods and wheel bearings. He said the wheel bearings are "bad" too.

On to my question. How can you tell if the wheel bearings are "bad" or just needs the spindle nut tightened a little? I had the rotors off to modify them for the boss wheels HERE. Is it possible maybe I didn't preload them properly? Is there a good way to tell if they are too worn? It's not a big deal to change them, I'm going to be changing the ball joints on the pass. side soon. The driver side looks to have been changed already and is tight.

[mcbassin]

No one?

[tubbedII]

The way I was told to check for bad bearings is to wiggle the wheel back and fort from top to bottom and the should be very little play. I don't really know how to look at them and tell.

As for proper tightening, I've heard several different ways now. I tighten while spinning the rotor until it's fairly hard to spin. Then back it off and re-tighen enough so there's a little bit of drag when spinning the rotor. I'm sure there's torque specs and such, but I've never used one for it...mainly because I don't own a socket that fits and I'm too cheap to buy one for this job.

[cableguy0]

The bearings being bad would mean they are blued from being overheated and loose or they are actually falling apart. The style bearings our trucks use normally can just be regreased and tightened a bit. If the bearings were truly bad the races would be torn up too and need to be replaced.

[ItsRandy]

The bearings can change to a straw color, they don't have to have turned blue to be bad. They can also "pit", small chips in the surface. Tightening wheel bearings until there is no clearance when cold will overheat the bearing when you drive. Everything expands when it gets hot and if the bearing is tight when cold it will be tighter when hot and you need a little clearance for lubrication.

[fastwillie 696969]

as cheap as they are i would just replace them

[grs]

I was taught to tighten the bearing tight while spinning the wheel. After it is tight you then loosen it up a little. Then use a screw driver to see if the big flat washer will move back and forth. This washer should not be too loose. Then put the cotter pin in. You may have to move the nut to get the pin in.

[lolife99]

Did he say why he thought the bearings were bad?
I would take it apart and check the bearings. (clean and repack)

[jasonhall]

Is their a torque spec for the bearings?

[mcbassin]

Originally Posted by tubbedII

The way I was told to check for bad bearings is to wiggle the wheel back and fort from top to bottom and the should be very little play. I don't really know how to look at them and tell.

As for proper tightening, I've heard several different ways now. I tighten while spinning the rotor until it's fairly hard to spin. Then back it off and re-tighen enough so there's a little bit of drag when spinning the rotor. I'm sure there's torque specs and such, but I've never used one for it...mainly because I don't own a socket that fits and I'm too cheap to buy one for this job.

This is the way I was taught way back in the day.

Originally Posted by cableguy0

The bearings being bad would mean they are blued from being overheated and loose or they are actually falling apart. The style bearings our trucks use normally can just be regreased and tightened a bit. If the bearings were truly bad the races would be torn up too and need to be replaced.

I agree and will look for any wear or evidence of overheating or lack of grease.

Originally Posted by ItsRandy

The bearings can change to a straw color, they don't have to have turned blue to be bad. They can also "pit", small chips in the surface. Tightening wheel bearings until there is no clearance when cold will overheat the bearing when you drive. Everything expands when it gets hot and if the bearing is tight when cold it will be tighter when hot and you need a little clearance for lubrication.

I agree with what you are saying. He checked them while they were hot. But I'm not sure I agree they are "bad". I never heard any grinding noise. He was able to move them a little by grabbing the wheel and shaking it up and down. My thinking, I'll probably pull it apart and check for excessive wear on the rollers.

Originally Posted by fastwillie 696969

as cheap as they are i would just replace them

I agree their cheap around $20 per side. I just don't want to go through this drill again in a few months because they are loose.

Originally Posted by grs

I was taught to tighten the bearing tight while spinning the wheel. After it is tight you then loosen it up a little. Then use a screw driver to see if the big flat washer will move back and forth. This washer should not be too loose. Then put the cotter pin in. You may have to move the nut to get the pin in.

Thanks, that's what I thought.

Originally Posted by lolife99

Did he say why he thought the bearings were bad?
I would take it apart and check the bearings. (clean and repack)

Just move them up and down and said there was excessive movement. I looked at it too, didn't seem too bad to me. I will pull it apart to confirm they are still good.

Originally Posted by jasonhall

Is their a torque spec for the bearings?

Not sure about this one?

Thanks guys for all the help. I have heard of very few of these bearings failing on these trucks. On trailers pretty often but not on these trucks.