ditching dual tank selector valve & all unneeded wiring

[SYCOTIK]

Hey guys. Lookin for a little advice so I'm gonna try to explain best I can without the help of pics. I'm putting all the wiring back in my truck now, and tryin to get rid of things I don't need. Its an '87 tbi that had dual tanks. I put in a fuel cell a while back, but just ran one of the tank lines from the selector valve to the cell. Now I want to ditch that valve along with all wiring/ switches that have to do with it. I tried to figure out the wiring diagram from the chiltons manual, but wanted some extra input before I start removing wires I may need later. So from the firewall plug, there's 7 wires, 4 going to taillights, 3 for fuel system (2- tan/white, 1 pink). 1 of the tan/whites plugs into another small harness that goes to the tank selector switch on the dash, which I want to do away with. The other tan/white and pink wires go back to a plug. The other end of the plug, the wires go into the valve selctor harness with a couple other wires. I know the pink wire goes the sending unit, and I think the tan/white is fuel pump?
So now my question. Can I just run the pink directly to the sending unit on the fuel cell and the tan/white to the fuel pump (if that's what that wire goes to)? And then I could remove all the othere unneeded wires that connect anywhere within those?
Sorry if that just confused anybody lol. If any of that isn't correct or if anyone needs some more info to help lemme know and ill try and get it. Thanks guys
Posted via Mobile Device

[pig rig]

just a heads up if you haven't figured it out already but the dash switch not only does it select the tank but it also turns the pump on and off for the selected tank

[maskale]

They only way to be sure is test it.

Make estensions or pull all ur wires to the driver door. Figure which wire does what and label them. And get a note pad also to write your test results down.

Now buy testing make sure all ur labels are correct. U need a test light and a sending unit. Use the test light to make sure ur fuel pump gets 12v when u put the key in ON. Also hook up the sending unit and make sure it works correctly, even move the float and watch ur gauge to make sure it moves, sending unit needs a ground during test.

If u want to remove the switch u just need to to figure which wires to connect together. After u splice those wires run ur test again to make sure everything is right.
Posted via Mobile Device

[hatzie]

Yes. You read the diagram correctly. The solid pink wire is the main sender wire and tan/white is the tank switch power feed.

Attached is a 1989 GM TBI dual tank wiring diagram. I believe the dashed lines indicate the wiring and plug for a single tank TBI setup.

[SYCOTIK]

Thanks for the responses guys. Testing the wires isn't really an option at this point since I'm just starting to put all the wiring back in, so there's zero power to the truck and half of the harnesses aren't even in. I was just hoping to do away with things at this point instead of going back thru again later, but I guess that's what ill have to do or just deal with extra wires...
Hatzie, I'm havin trouble getting ur attachment to open for some reason. Could u try emailing it to me? Layedout87@comcast.net
Posted via Mobile Device

[hatzie]

Vehicle power isn't needed to chase wires. You need a good wiring diagram set and a volt ohm meter with a continuity buzzer mode.
You can use a self-powered continuity test light but they cost more than a volt ohm meter.

Buzz or ohm the pink wire to the fuel gauge signal wire in the dash.
Buzz or ohm the tan/wht wire to the IGN connection on the fuse panel.