4l80e info needed.

[85burb]

I was wondering how many hp a stock 4l80e will handle. Also what are the transfercase options. I have a cammed lq4 and my "stage 2" trans slips if i get on it hard. I am going to use the tci trans controller if i decide to use a 4l80. Just need to see if a built one is what i need or stock will work. Thanks.

[usmcchevy]

I think a stock 4l80e will hold just fine for you. Go to this link, I think he is still running a stock 4L80E with a shift kit.

http://neufamily.org/truck.html

[85burb]

Thanks for the link. I have been trying to do some resurch but you get a lot of different opinions from all the sites.

[clinebarger]

A stock 4L80E will handle about 450-500 HP, Now thats IF the transmission is in good shape, A worn used one will be lucky to live behind a stock engine.

[85burb]

Is that at flywheel or wheels? Also pm'ed you.

[BR3W CITY]

cline out of curiosity, where do you get those figures?

Its hard to say at what point a trans will die, since its not usually the sheer amount of horsepower that kills a trans...tho it will smoke a converter nicely.
Stockish i would agree with Cline, a decent runner should hold 500 or so ponies.

Now above that it gets a bit different. There are BUILT 4l80e holding near 2000hp, like FLT level 5 or I think Rossler makes one too...these are mostly full race units with full manual valve bodies, but there is variation. Then there are "built" units, those that are stock 4l80e's with new more aggressive servo, hd clutches and springs etc...essentially more "performance re-built" than true race built units. These are 80% of what most folks have and can afford (myself included). With the right converter, my trans should be good for in the neighborhood of 8-900 without running the risk of leaving parts on the road.


There ARE guys running stock 80's with 700hp+, but usually its temporary.

[clinebarger]

Originally Posted by BR3W CITY

cline out of curiosity, where do you get those figures?

Experiance, I build transmissions, Do LS/LT conversions, People think a 200,000 mile 4L80E with a high dollar Yank, Hughes, etc. etc. stall converter will last, It doesnt.

[harnalien]

Cline, I've been trying to get in contact with you, but I lost your number. Please help!

[clinebarger]

Originally Posted by harnalien

Cline, I've been trying to get in contact with you, but I lost your number. Please help!

Sent you a PM.

[harnalien]

Thanks! Burb, so you're thinking of giving up the 700? I have been kicking around the idea of getting mine rebuilt (again), but I think it may be a waste of money in the long run. If I do go with the 4L80, I want to use that TCI controller as well. Seems like a pretty slick little unit. During my research, I have also read that a stock 4l80 can handle decent power. However, as has been stated, it should be a good unit to begin with, not a bomb looking for somewhere to detonate.

[Mr. 250r]

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GM_4L80-E_transmission

they hold alot just like the th350/400 but power hogs, as far as transfer case options you have the 205, 208, 241 and possibly a 203. I'd personally go with a 205 but as the 1991 adapter is not easy to get a hold of luckily i found a source for brand new ones and im pretty sure you can put the newer driver side drops on if you so desire

[85burb]

Originally Posted by harnalien

Thanks! Burb, so you're thinking of giving up the 700? I have been kicking around the idea of getting mine rebuilt (again), but I think it may be a waste of money in the long run. If I do go with the 4L80, I want to use that TCI controller as well. Seems like a pretty slick little unit. During my research, I have also read that a stock 4l80 can handle decent power. However, as has been stated, it should be a good unit to begin with, not a bomb looking for somewhere to detonate.

I am not giving it up it seems to be on the loosing end of the battle between the engine and it. If i get past 1/2-3/4 throttle in 4th something lets loose and rpms shoot up. It is mostlikily the converter but if i hammer on it threw all the gears they all slip when shifting. The fluid is still nice and red tho. I just want to have confidance that when i hammer it i will not bounc off rev limiter and go no ware. I will prob run the 700 tell it gives up.

[85burb]

Originally Posted by Mr. 250r

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GM_4L80-E_transmission

they hold alot just like the th350/400 but power hogs, as far as transfer case options you have the 205, 208, 241 and possibly a 203. I'd personally go with a 205 but as the 1991 adapter is not easy to get a hold of luckily i found a source for brand new ones and im pretty sure you can put the newer driver side drops on if you so desire

WIll a 208 bolt right up? That is what i have now and dont want to chunck it yet.

[Mr. 250r]

Originally Posted by 85burb

WIll a 208 bolt right up? That is what i have now and dont want to chunck it yet.

Pm sent
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[BR3W CITY]

Originally Posted by clinebarger

Experiance, I build transmissions, Do LS/LT conversions, People think a 200,000 mile 4L80E with a high dollar Yank, Hughes, etc. etc. stall converter will last, It doesnt.

good deal.
There are also people who think buying a new converter is enough to call a trans "custom built" lol.....gotta love craigslist

[noonzor]

while on the 80e subject, if a guy is looking to rebuild his and have it handle more than stock power, who makes a good kit?

[BR3W CITY]

Monster sells "Monster in a box" transmission kits. Never used it, but I've heard their pre-built transmissions are pretty good.

[noonzor]

Haha, sorry, do a quick "monster transmission reviews" search in google. Theres an entire website dedicated to pissed off monster transmission consumers. What i didnt notice was a date, maybe theyve gotten better. But theres a whole lotta negative reviews out there on them.

Has anyone here used them? Maybe im wrong, id like to be wrong cause they have good prices.
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[85burb]

I have one of there monster stage 2 700R4s. I have been pretty happy with it so far. I am over the tq rating i beleve. With the old 350 it shifted solid. With the cammed lq4 it cant really handle it. I have had great coustomer service. The next transmission i buy i want it to be localy built just for ease of warrenty stuff that may come up?

[clinebarger]

Originally Posted by noonzor

while on the 80e subject, if a guy is looking to rebuild his and have it handle more than stock power, who makes a good kit?

A quality rebuild with a shift kit with STOCK frictions can handle 600-700 HP with a well-built converter.

Its not the money you spend on high dollar parts that make a good transmission......Setting clutch clearance, No torn Lip-seals/sealing rings, Replacing bushings, Inspecting parts for wear, Checking end-play-Trust washers, Lapping valves, Cleaning valve bodies & overall attention to detail is what makes a transmission.

[RanchFlyer]

85 Burb I have had several trans built by Jimmy Hayes on the west side of Tyler. Always been very satisfied. He is building my 400 for my truck next week. I just thought I would though that out since you previously said you were going local.

[85burb]

Thanks i will keep that in mind.

[harnalien]

Not trying to hijack, but I have a question about shifting with a 4l80e. When going from park to drive, is there anything the computer will need to "see" from the tranny to know its in drive?
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[clinebarger]

Originally Posted by harnalien

Not trying to hijack, but I have a question about shifting with a 4l80e. When going from park to drive, is there anything the computer will need to "see" from the tranny to know its in drive?
Posted via Mobile Device

The Neutral safety switch/range switch on the selector shaft tells the PCM what range your in, Easy to wire up.

Will, Having this hooked up will not fix your P0345/cam-crank correlation code problem.

[harnalien]

Originally Posted by clinebarger

The Neutral safety switch/range switch on the selector shaft tells the PCM what range your in, Easy to wire up.

Will, Having this hooked up will not fix your P0345/cam-crank correlation code problem.

Ok thanks! I know it won't fix the relearn. I need to ground a couple of pins for that apparently. As soon as I get it driveable again I'll get that taken care of.