1/2 ton frame -vs- 3/4 ton frame

[1959 Apache 3600]

Is there a frame difference between the 1/2 and 3/4 frames such as thickness and rigidity or is the difference just in the suspension?

I've got a 3/4 and am wondering if I need to box it while I have most of it apart.

Thanks!

[Larry Lindley]

that is up to you, Ive ran them both ways,full box or part.

[Larry Lindley]

what are you using the truck for?Drive train change?never had any problem with mine.someone will chime in .there are alot of good views on this forum.

[mknittle]

I would box it now these frames are pretty flexy .

[OrrieG]

The literature link in my signatue has a page that shows all the frame specs.

The frames were designed to be flexible and straighten out because back then they were used to cross fields, ditches, streams, and go off road. I have had mine with the axles at opposite extremes with the cab and bed twisted. I once popped the weld were the A pillar meets the cab and thought for sure I was going to blow out the windshield.

If you are upgrading the suspension and plan on just driving it on the street and highway then boxing is an option to strengthen the connection points. I have not boxed any of my frame, or welded on any of the suspension, engine, etc. mounts and have not had any problems.

[_Ogre]

not sure what the difference is, but i know they are different.
you can't get a mustII for a 3/4 or 1 ton frame.
a factory assembly manual will tell you everything you need to know
they are also handy for reassembling your truck, a worthy $29 purchase

it will flex, i like the look of a boxed frame.
i also welded all 3000+ holes in my frame (slight exaggeration, maybe)

[1959 Apache 3600]

Great! Thanks for the replies.
I'm moving up to a big block C454 and TH400. I also plan on flatbedding and putting dualies on the rear end.

[MrTucker]

the only difference is the length. I dont think any 3/4 tons were made in short beds.

[Larry Lindley]

with the drive train up grade I would box frame.

[mknittle]

Originally Posted by OrrieG

The literature link in my signatue has a page that shows all the frame specs.

The frames were designed to be flexible and straighten out because back then they were used to cross fields, ditches, streams, and go off road. I have had mine with the axles at opposite extremes with the cab and bed twisted. I once popped the weld were the A pillar meets the cab and thought for sure I was going to blow out the windshield.

If you are upgrading the suspension and plan on just driving it on the street and highway then boxing is an option to strengthen the connection points. I have not boxed any of my frame, or welded on any of the suspension, engine, etc. mounts and have not had any problems.

I agree for off road I would not box it my 42 willys jeep is not boxed and flexes better than the boxed ones.

[OrrieG]

Originally Posted by mknittle

I agree for off road I would not box it my 42 willys jeep is not boxed and flexes better than the boxed ones.

Those were the other rigs I learned to drive and wrench on. Our favorite was a M38A1 with PTO winch. They were the ones used for Communications and came with 24 volt electrical system, sealed so you could literally run water up to the bottom of the windshield. Worked really good in Western Oregon, were its wet all the time. Thing would climb a tree in low range. Back then you could get them at govt auctions for a couple hundred dollars, slap a paint job, chrome rims and a roll bar on them and sell for $600.