Need help with dash pad removal 1980 c10 and fuel tank issue.

[paximus]

Hello fellow square body lovers, newbie here first post so go easy on the hazing! I have recently rejoined your ranks after kicking myself in the butt for 15 years for selling my first square body because I needed the money to get through my last semester of Law School. Well now that that is done and accomplished and I have a nice little criminal defense practice working for myself, I tend to have some free time here and there to devote to bringing back to life yet another square body. Picked up a 1980 short bed for 900 from a good friend, it runs like new but the interior is trashed except the bench seats which are strangely is perfect order, the 80 short bed has always been my favorite year and style of the squares, it is an Arizona truck BUT it spent two years up north so there is some rust but nothing I cant handle.



The dash pad is trashed from sun rot and I want to remove it, as I understand, under that pad is a complete all metal frame/dash, IS THIS CORRECT AND CAN ANYONE POST A PIC OF WHAT THAT METAL LOOKS LIKE WITHOUT THE PAD ON IT PLEASE, I would like to just keep it that way, all metal and not put another dash pad on it.



My question is I just bought a real nice instrument panel bezel with a billet oveerlay, set me bck a considerable amount of coin so I need this to work, so here is my question, when I took the old bezel off I noticed at least TWO SCREWS AT THE TOP holding it in screwed directly in to DASH PAD and not the metal, the rest seemed to screw in in to metal without any dash pad involvement, so finally my question to all you experts, if I tke off dash pad and just want to do with the metal dash frame that is UNDER THE PAD, can I still installl my bezel or is that going to be a problem?


One other issue, it has dual fuel tanks and the drivers side is full but there is no gas getting to the feul pump line from that tank, the pass side tank works fine, what would be the problem with the other tank is there something I need to replace,I hve checked all lines for clogs and there is none, is there some sort of electrical thingy that canm go out rendering the tank unusable until replaced?


I think that is enough for this post i willl have more questions later and will post some pics tomorrow for yalll to drool over lol.



Thanks guys, I sincerely appreciate any and all help/suggestions you have to offer wrt to these two matters.





I WOULD ALSO LIKE TO ADD THAT IT NEEDS A NEW BED AS THE RUST I MENTIONED IS IN THE BED SO IF THERE IS ANYONE IN TUCSON ARIZONA THAT HAS A SHORT BED for the 80 c10 WITH DUAL TANKS PM ME I WILL PAY TOP DOLLAR.

[paximus]

No one has any suggestions?

[C15_Sierra]

This is the dash on my '80 with the pad removed. There's a metal panel that the pad sits on, which itself is metal-backed. I replaced mine with a urethane repop from Classic Industries. Fit is ok, I've only mocked it up and there are some corners that need to be cut down, but its light years ahead where it used to be



Dash pad that came out -

[C15_Sierra]

On the fuel tank, you might want to check your switching valve. Sounds like you may need a new one, I don't think they're that expensive, correct me if I'm wrong..I only have a plain jane single tank truck

[paximus]

Originally Posted by C15_Sierra

This is the dash on my '80 with the pad removed. There's a metal panel that the pad sits on, which itself is metal-backed. I replaced mine with a urethane repop from Classic Industries. Fit is ok, I've only mocked it up and there are some corners that need to be cut down, but its light years ahead where it used to be



Dash pad that came out -

Thank you! That is the EXACT picture I wanted to see, so now I know whats under there and what I have to work with, thank you so much for taking the time to post that very helpful picture.



Also, good thinking on the switching valve wrt the fuel issue, I will look in to that next, may have to end up dropping the tank, lets hope not.


Thanks again man, that pic really helps me a lot.

[C15_Sierra]

No prob. I actually had those photos from my build thread, so no extra work other than finding 'em.

Dropping the tank is no biggie - disconnect the filler hose and fuel lines, and undo the 8 bracket bolts. It's harder with a full tank (obviously), but I was able to do mine myself with about 1/4 tank (I have a 20 gal.).

Also, I'm not sure you have to drop the tank to test the fuel selector valve. Someone w/ dual tanks might be of more use here, but I think its located somewhere on the frame

Good luck!

[vegas80step]

glad someone had a dash picture for ya, I just covered mine up last weekend... I can't see it looking that nice with out some sort of cover or pad..

well I guess it depends on what your going for... welcome to the site.. tons of great info here...

[jhngardner367]

The fuel tank selector valves cost from $70 to $135,depending on where you get them. I bypassed mine,to put a compressor unit in,since the tank on the right side was completely rotted out. The switches aren't cheap,either.the valve is mounted inside the right frame rail,near the rear cab mount crossmember.
Some have 3 tubes,while others will have 6,so look closely.