starting problems

[awitate]

I have a weird problem with my 63. Whenever I go out on a drive longer than let's 30 minutes and turn it off, she won't start, she doesn't even turn. This happened yesterday so I told my wife to bring the jumper cables but we should go eat first. We took about an hour and when we came back she started right up. Keep in mind this never happens 1st thing in the morning. Its got a 350 that came off of a 71 impala with no mods that I can see.
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[PAPA KENT]

i am again dealing with the exact same problem.i had the starter checked by a outfit that's been rebuilding starters for years,installed two hi temp selenoids, new battery cables,battery and my generator is putting out 14.2. i found lastnight that i did'nt have any ground straps so i mounted one from block to frame and block to cab so i'll find out today if that helps.if not i'll get the starter rebuilt.maybe some of this will help.

kent.

[poncho_villa]

I had the same issues. I solved it by doing what this guy did. Check out this link.
http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...ight=Heat+soak

[bama63]

and i always use this also http://www.summitracing.com/search/P...-Shield-Wraps/

[awitate]

This is sounds like it will fix it. Just need to figure out how to ask for a "ford solenoid"
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[doobiebro]

I know your fustration... In the past I had a 62 with a 283 and in the summer months I had the same problem. I changed out starters, rewire, added extra groung strap and installed a heat shield. I found out the problem was the starter was getting to hot because they are mounted to close to the exhaust manifolds. On my current truck 60 with a 283 engine...I purchased a small racing Hitatchi starter from summit and never had this problem again..hope this helps..

[Budman56]

Your problem is called (heart soaking the starter) the cure is a remote solenoid see photos I have attached. I just did this to mine yesterday for the same problems your having with your starter.
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[Budman56]

He are photos of it installed in my truck it works great.

[McCoyAZ]

Originally Posted by Budman56

He are photos of it installed in my truck it works great.

Is that one of those dry cell batteries?

[Budman56]

Originally Posted by McCoyAZ

Is that one of those dry cell batteries?

Yes
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[McCoyAZ]

http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/st-1.shtml

Someone posted this for the exact same question I asked in another forum.

[Budman56]

Originally Posted by McCoyAZ

http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/st-1.shtml

Someone posted this for the exact same question I asked in another forum.

Yes I got the same add, the only problem with this add is if your in a hurry you won't be able to order it. I tried to call for three days with no results. I seen on their web site they have limited hours to answer their phones. No one ever answered when I called and you can't leave a message and they don't have website ordering. So it was easier to go to autozone and get the solenoid.
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[FreakyMalo]

Good grounds will make a difference but that solenoid is just added mess. Go down to your local welding supply, get some welding cable (for a stick welder) and make new battery cables and grounds from it. I did this years ago and it completely solved my hot-start issue without adding a bunch of unsightly F*rd parts.

What's the saying around here? Chevy only!

When electrons travel down the cable, they travel along the surface of the copper filaments, not through the middle of them. Welding cable has a zillion little tiny filaments which gives more surface area than your standard battery cable with fat filaments. More surface area = more amperage capacity. Amperage is what your starter needs when it's hot. That's all the solenoid is doing; giving the starter more amperage through the extra cable. Heck you could just double up the stock positive cable without the solenoid kit and it would do the same thing.

[MARTYZ]

I have to agree that using F--- parts to fix a chevy is not right!! Check all connections ect. Make yourself a heat shield or find one from newer model chev starter to sheild the solinoid at the starter and drive on. Some times if you take the cap off the soliniod you will find the contacts burnt and you can turn them 1/2 turn and get new contact points.

[fleetsidelarry]

Originally Posted by FreakyMalo

That's all the solenoid is doing; giving the starter more amperage through the extra cable.

that makes it sound as if the remote solenoid is providing extra amperage to the starter MOTOR, enabling it to spin, which is not why it works. it works because it allows sufficient amperage to the starter SOLENOID. that may be what you meant, sorry to nitpick. Here's one explanation:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...07&postcount=7

[FreakyMalo]

Semantics. The remote solenoid is providing extra amperage to the GM solenoid which in turn, provides power to the starter MOTOR which suffers the same increased-resistance issue as the solenoid. So more amperage for the solenoid means more amperage for the starter motor.

Mine would turn the engine over slowly for a second when I had this problem; enough amps to actuate the solenoid but not enough to spin the engine.

What was your experience, Larry? Besides using the search engine?

Either way that remote is unnecessary if you use welding cable. It's not too difficult to solder on the terminals; a propane torch, rosin-core solder (it's acid-free, no corrosion) and a vise or a brave helper.

[fleetsidelarry]

Originally Posted by FreakyMalo

What was your experience, Larry? Besides using the search engine?

come on, FreakyMalo, that's not necessary.

I have no doubt that a set of cables made like you describe would help dump more amps to the starter when asked to do so, compared to stock cables.

the simple point is that the solenoid has to switch in order for the starter motor to ask for the amperage thru the big cable.

it's not a matter of semantics. if the wire to the "s" post can't provide the necessary current to trigger the relay switch, due to heat-related resistance in it and the solenoid, then the big power cable isn't asked to deliver it's juice. with the remote solenoid, the "s" post gets it's current from the big power cable, thus no problem getting the needed 25 amps or so to trigger the solenoid.

those are my own words, not some search engine quote.

[PAPA KENT]

Originally Posted by awitate

I have a weird problem with my 63. Whenever I go out on a drive longer than let's 30 minutes and turn it off, she won't start, she doesn't even turn. This happened yesterday so I told my wife to bring the jumper cables but we should go eat first. We took about an hour and when we came back she started right up. Keep in mind this never happens 1st thing in the morning. Its got a 350 that came off of a 71 impala with no mods that I can see.
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well oh well,i found my problem and hopefully this might help yours.while this has been going on i have tested charging voltage many times and i've had 13.8-14.2 everytime with a cold test.this time i was lucky enough to have it act up in the driveway so i checked my charging output again and i was only putting 12.2 v to the battery, my generator is putting out 14-14.2 but going thru the the regulator it was down to 12.2.the regulator was acting up only when it was warm so i replaced it and i have a good 13.8-14.2 again.

good luck!

[FreakyMalo]

Yep, I'm cranky in the morning and get annoyed when someone would rather nitpick a minor point than help a guy solve his problem. The search engine reference related to the link you posted, not your explanation. Hence the sarcasm. Here's a smiley I hope it helps.

Back on subject; I don't believe it has as much to do with the 'S' terminal as it does the battery cable. When I converted to the welding cable, it was the only change I made (didn't touch the 'S' wire) and it solved the problem completely for the next 5-6 years til I wore out the trans and parked it for a newer dd. But then again, I had rewired the car with a modern harness so perhaps it is an issue with old factory wiring..
btw, I'm in the central valley of CA and it regularly goes over 100 degrees in the summer and I had zero hot-start issues after I made the swap. This was with a factory high-torque starter on a mild 350. (10:1)

[Budman56]

Originally Posted by FreakyMalo

Yep, I'm cranky in the morning and get annoyed when someone would rather nitpick a minor point than help a guy solve his problem. The search engine reference related to the link you posted, not your explanation. Hence the sarcasm. Here's a smiley I hope it helps.

Back on subject; I don't believe it has as much to do with the 'S' terminal as it does the battery cable. When I converted to the welding cable, it was the only change I made (didn't touch the 'S' wire) and it solved the problem completely for the next 5-6 years til I wore out the trans and parked it for a newer dd. But then again, I had rewired the car with a modern harness so perhaps it is an issue with old factory wiring..
btw, I'm in the central valley of CA and it regularly goes over 100 degrees in the summer and I had zero hot-start issues after I made the swap. This was with a factory high-torque starter on a mild 350. (10:1)

Thank you all but no one came up with this ideal when I needed it as a matter of fact the only answer I got was from the electrical section of this forum and I was told this was the only fix for my problem. So having said that this is the reason we all come hear is to get help from more experienced people. I would have tried the cable but I have already spent the money on the solenoid, and yes I don't like the fact that it is a ford part but what the hell it worked.
Maybe you should go to the electrical section and set them straight.
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