Tweaked Frame

[arturo7]

Any ideas on how to address this?

[robin58]

The assembly manual has the dimensions at a ton of points:

http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com...51ctsm0202.htm

See what it needs and where. Heat, BFH, pipe clamps should get you straight.

[dsl30263]

I had some issues like that with my 52 3100 frame, at the rear. I used C-clamps, a Big (4 ft.) bar, BFH, pretty much everything I could think of that I had in my possession. I don't have a torch setup, but it would've been handy.
Patience and ingenuity...

[Wheelie]

First you need to check if the frame is diamond. Which means if you cross measure from left front to right rear and vice versa the measurments should be same or damn close. Robin is correct that the assembly manual does contain the information of all those measurements. From just looking at it though it had been hit in the front at one time and probably just bent the frame rail there. Heat and BFH or even better, a come along and a big ass tree will get you there. Just dont pull too far!!

[oldcouple]

MAAP gas, its the yellow one, with a propane head will get hotter if you don't have a welding torch.

[mknittle]

Originally Posted by Wheelie

First you need to check if the frame is diamond. Which means if you cross measure from left front to right rear and vice versa the measurments should be same or damn close. Robin is correct that the assembly manual does contain the information of all those measurements. From just looking at it though it had been hit in the front at one time and probably just bent the frame rail there. Heat and BFH or even better, a come along and a big ass tree will get you there. Just dont pull too far!!

That won't work with the frame bent like that. the bent side will be longer!
measurements will have to be made back from the bend.
Don't try to pull it back using the good side as an ancor or you could end up with both bent.
I would cut small pie shaped notches in the top and bottom to weaken it enough to bend then weld it up when it is straight! The front crossmember is where the bend starts.
I avoid big hammers if possable! every action has a equal reaction!often where you don't want it!

[Chevette]

Originally Posted by mknittle

That won't work with the frame bent like that. the bent side will be longer!
measurements will have to be made back from the bend.
Don't try to pull it back using the good side as an ancor or you could end up with both bent.
I would cut small pie shaped notches in the top and bottom to weaken it enough to bend then weld it up when it is straight! The front crossmember is where the bend starts.
I avoid big hammers if possable! every action has a equal reaction!often where you don't want it!

Newton here is correct. That's the way I would tackle it too. BTW, Newton, it's "equal and opposite reaction"

[mr48chev]

Is that on the panel?

First I'd do as Wheelie suggested and make sure that the frame it's self is square.

If the rest of it is square a few licks with a BIG sledge hammer might move that frame horn back in place. I'd somehow fasten a piece of steel plate to the side of the end of the frame horn to have a place to hit and not tweak up the horn with the hammer.

Heat in the right spot where it was bent or a cut or two there to relieve it a bit won't hurt any but may not be necessary.

Best case is if someone with a 58 or 59 that has the nose off can take a couple of straight on photos along with a few measurements to help you get it back square.

[mknittle]

Originally Posted by Chevette

Newton here is correct. That's the way I would tackle it too. BTW, Newton, it's "equal and opposite reaction"

Yeah I am just lazy todayi spent the last two days promoting our bonsai club.

however when you hit your thumb with a hammer there is a multyplied reaction!

[arturo7]

Thanks for the ideas, fellas. Y'all got me thinking...

Once the suspension is removed, I wonder if I could place a couple 4x4s against the outside of the frame horns extending back to the cab mounts, then squeeze it back into shape with a come along? I'm guessing this would not compromise the crossmember?

[Chevette]

If you remove the rad support bracket, then "V notch" the frame rail (top and bottom), clamp a bit of leverage to it, heat the rail, bend it into place and weld it like Sir Isaac wrote, you'll find it much easier and you won't damage any other areas by creating too much stress. Also, you won't buckle the upper and lower returns. In fact, you might not need to heat it. Just sayin'. PS; Don't make your "V" cuts any wider than you need. What ever route you go, Good luck.

[Chevette]

Originally Posted by mknittle

Yeah I am just lazy todayi spent the last two days promoting our bonsai club.

however when you hit your thumb with a hammer there is a multyplied reaction!

Yes Isaac. And the "multiplied reaction" is mostly verbal.

[beanyard]

Originally Posted by mknittle

Yeah I am just lazy todayi spent the last two days promoting our bonsai club.

however when you hit your thumb with a hammer there is a multyplied reaction!

My bonsai was 14 years old when we got it and is now 17+ years old.
Posted via Mobile Device

[mknittle]

Originally Posted by beanyard

My bonsai was 14 years old when we got it and is now 17+ years old.
Posted via Mobile Device

Thats great! What is it?

[mknittle]

Originally Posted by Chevette

Yes Isaac. And the "multiplied reaction" is mostly verbal.

Yes It does work that way doesn't it!

[mknittle]

Originally Posted by arturo7

Thanks for the ideas, fellas. Y'all got me thinking...

Once the suspension is removed, I wonder if I could place a couple 4x4s against the outside of the frame horns extending back to the cab mounts, then squeeze it back into shape with a come along? I'm guessing this would not compromise the crossmember?

The problem is that the metal on the frame flanges{top and bottom} are stretched where the frame is bent out.Trying to correct it by pushing or hitting it Will likely stretch it in another place. That is my reasoning on the pie cuts.That relieves the the brace effect of the flanges and allows the side of the frame to be easily bent. where YOU want it and not at the weakest spot.

4X4s are flexable enough that you may end

[OrrieG]

Lots of good advice, I'll add by 2 cents. When I learned my bodywork the old timers first lesson was to just sit back and reconstruct what happened and where the metal had been modified and had tension. Then figure out how to release the tension and move the metal back into shape.

The other posters are right the metal stretch on the inside upper and lower flanges and that is where the tension is. If you just try and pull or bang it in the upper and lower horizontal flanges will buckle unless you shrink them by heating and heavy dolly work or the pie cuts and welding. Do not use the other parts of the truck for bracing, these are riveted together and designed to flex, you will just pull something else out of square. You also want to keep track of the spring shackle in that location so you do not pull the front axle out of square too.

[arturo7]

So, how do I make the cuts? Will I need a torch?

[rgunlock]

I'm not the expert these other guys are, but if it were me, I'd use a cutoff wheel. You'd get a straight cut where the edges should line back up for welding when you straighten the rail.

[OrrieG]

Originally Posted by arturo7

So, how do I make the cuts? Will I need a torch?

NO, cutoff wheel, hack saw, die grinder with this wheel, goal is to make a small cut, move, measure and if not enough, a little bigger, repeat as necessary. Also gives you a narrower weld to fill. I do not even own a torch to avoid such temptations.

[mknittle]

Thanks Orrie and rick for Your input.
Orrie is right about the torch! the only time I use one is for making bends in parts that i am making.

I would use a cutoff wheel just because it makes a bit wider cut.

[1project2many]

Reversing the damage, is that frame primarily bent toward the LH side of the truck, or is it bent up away from pavement? If it's bent up then the twist is a result of the upward displacement, a reaction if you will, and will reverse itself to some extent if the frame horn is forced down again. If the primary bend was in the direction of the LH side then you've got a bit more work ahead.

A well controlled sawzall or jigsaw with metal blades might get through that frame faster than a cutoff wheel if you end up at that point.

[mknittle]

A cutoff wheel in a die gainder maybe. but one in a 4" grinder is way faster than a sawzall and dosen't hammer you to death.
I got out my sawzall a couple weeks ago I gave up after sawing/beating about an inch. Now I remember why it was in back on a bottom shelf.

[1project2many]

A cutoff wheel in a die gainder maybe. but one in a 4" grinder is way faster than a sawzall and dosen't hammer you to death.

Ok, I'll give you this one because I haven't tried a big wheel in a 4" grinder. But now that you mention it I'll have to give it a try. After shooting a 7" grinding disc across the shop years ago due to inappropriate use, then having to spend a week fixing collateral damage around the shop, I tend to have a lot of respect for spinning things.

I got out my sawzall a couple weeks ago I gave up after sawing/beating about an inch. Now I remember why it was in back on a bottom shelf.

If the big cutoff wheel works well maybe I can retire mine to a shelf in the back, too. Along with the big work gloves I wear when I use it.

[Chevette]

Originally Posted by 1project2many

Ok, I'll give you this one because I haven't tried a big wheel in a 4" grinder. But now that you mention it I'll have to give it a try. After shooting a 7" grinding disc across the shop years ago due to inappropriate use, then having to spend a week fixing collateral damage around the shop, I tend to have a lot of respect for spinning things.



If the big cutoff wheel works well maybe I can retire mine to a shelf in the back, too. Along with the big work gloves I wear when I use it.

Caution: Cutoff wheels are for cutting ONLY! Do not grind with a cut off wheel! It makes them thin and then they blow apart. Take the time to change to a grinding wheel or buy an extra grinder and use one for cutting wheels and the other for grinding wheels. Sometimes when they blow apart, they lodge in the plastic bumper of your wife's brand new Lexus. If you're really having a bad day, parts of the wheels will need to be removed from your armpit. Also, even though we all do it, removing the guard when using a cutoff wheel is a bad idea. I should practice what I preach.