Suggestions before going all the way...??? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

BaggedC10 · 05-29-2003, 05:15 PM

Down to a bare frame that is.

Right now, I have to remove the cab, radiator support, f/r suspension setups, fuel tanks, brake/fuel lines, and other miscellaneous parts. Aside from labeling everything and taking pictures, any other things I should do?

bigblock73 · 05-29-2003, 05:25 PM

Keep all parts together (build or buy some standing shelves) and bag every component and all its accessories (screws, bolts, etc...) together and label the bags with perm marker. Also, do not throw anything away no matter how it looks or no matter if you think you won't need it...YOU WILL for whatever reason.

Good luck - Jeff

**old Rusty C10** · 05-29-2003, 05:54 PM

take LOTS of pictures both overviews and CLOSEUPS

**Captkaos** · 05-29-2003, 05:55 PM

Amen to what Jeff said. The only other this I can say is if you are anal about perfection, DON'T DO IT!!!!

BaggedC10 · 05-29-2003, 06:22 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Captkaos
Amen to what Jeff said. The only other this I can say is if you are anal about perfection, DON'T DO IT!!!!

I am and that is why I am doing this. Mainly to have the frame sandblasted/protected and replace everything.

SCOTI · 05-29-2003, 06:39 PM

If I had it to do over again . . .... buy a separate frame & perform all the work to it . . . . . then just swap the parts over when it's complete. This does several different things @ once. It gives you another frame for reference w/mods, it allows you to easily move & store the body w/o worry, & it's alot easier to just unbolt stuff from one & swap it over to the other right away so you remember how it was done.

When all is said & done, you can sell your frame for whatever the 'swap' frame cost so your only temporarily out of pocket.

I took my 67 all the way down, blasted everything, then epoxy primer & painted it only to keep doing more/different mods that required more grinding, welding, & drilling which kind of 'ruined' the whole strip-n-paint philosophy. Besides the problem of no workspace because I've got a disassembled truck scattered about, after having to move the body back & forth out of the way when making mods, I finally went out & just bought another rolling chassis, turbo400 w/yoke, & driveshaft for $300. Now I'll 're-do' the mods I did to the other frame so the whole thing looks like it wasn't one afterthought after another. I know all my future projects will be done this way as well.
Scot

**Captkaos** · 05-30-2003, 10:00 AM

I will agree with SCOTI's philosopy. There are things I just "forgot" that I don't want to go back and do now. Then next one will just have a frame made for it and I will get the running/driving body like I want it while still able to drive. When it comes time to paint everything, I will just swap it over to the new frame.

*1FaastC10* · 05-30-2003, 11:05 AM

i'm going to build my chassis, then disasemble it, and paint it. no worries for me about something not matching. i'll probably end up doing the whole truck like that.

Ziplock bags and sharpie markers are your BEST friend. i bet i've got 100 different bags in a box from my C10. everything is marked, so no worries about where the hardware went or how it goes together.

bigblock73 · 05-30-2003, 11:24 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by 1FaastC10
everything is marked, so no worries about where the hardware went or how it goes together.

I will bet you a case of beer you will forget some things...and it will only get worse the longer it is apart!

been there...hell...I am STILL there! I wonder how Chris will ever remember...we might be flying spaceships by the time his is back together!

j/k Chris, I am in the same boat you are.

...Jeff

SCOTI · 05-30-2003, 12:30 PM

I'll contest Chris' throne for 'how long does it take'. . . ....

I took my 67 down to the frame around 92.

solidaxel · 05-30-2003, 04:35 PM

Has anybody used POR-15? Does it work Is it worth the money?

**Captkaos** · 05-30-2003, 05:25 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by SCOTI
I'll contest Chris' throne for 'how long does it take'. . . ....
I took my 67 down to the frame around 92.

Believe you me, I feel ALOT better now.

solidaxel
I have used POR15 on everything I have painted that is black. I did topcoat the frame with Gloss Black.

phantom dually · 05-30-2003, 10:48 PM

I would strongly suggest you get all your suspension and frame mods done first then pull it back apart again to have it painted or coated. I started with a powder coated frame and rear axle only to have to cut brackets off and re weld. I changed my mind from a leaf set up to a 4 link and from stock arms to tubular. Its been a pain beecause I am scared to F up the powder coating

**N2TRUX** · 05-30-2003, 11:38 PM

Hmmm? Ahh never mind. I don't need to get going on taking forever...

SCOTI · 05-30-2003, 11:59 PM

N2TRUX,
I know you've got nothing BRAND but good things to say SPANKING about the time NEW Captkaos & myself GM have invested in our REAR BURB various ongoing BUMPER and current projects. So W/YOUR NAME ON IT play nice.

Wink, wink.

bigblock73 · 05-31-2003, 12:04 AM

Call me crazy but do i see a hidden message there somewhere??

...Jeff

*mike reeh* · 06-01-2003, 04:21 AM

it aint that hard.. I didnt find it necessary to label that much stuff (read: anything) ... the frame and its components are pretty self explanitory...

i recommend having the frame powder coated.. thats what I did.. you should have seen what i dropped off and what I picked up. it was worth every penny and then some. just the fact that I wasnt sanding/scraping/etc was worth it to me. the finish product is A+

mike

bagged81 · 06-01-2003, 11:16 AM

Has making sure that the frame is square been suggested yet?

slammedLT1 · 06-01-2003, 04:49 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by 1FaastC10
Ziplock bags and sharpie markers are your BEST friend. i bet i've got 100 different bags in a box from my C10. everything is marked, so no worries about where the hardware went or how it goes together.

i swear you must be my twin haha
i got the same thing!

*1FaastC10* · 06-01-2003, 06:23 PM

Mike, i dont think i NEEDED to either, as i've torn apart several of these trucks. however, it is a good idea, just in cast you do happen to forget something.

**N2TRUX** · 06-01-2003, 09:35 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by SCOTI
N2TRUX,
I know you've got nothing BRAND but good things to say SPANKING about the time NEW Captkaos & myself GM have invested in our REAR BURB various ongoing BUMPER and current projects. So W/YOUR NAME ON IT play nice.Wink, wink.

Why yes, my good friend Scoti. I'm quit proud of the progress you, and my old buddy Chris have made. I realize it may seem like you guys are taking foreeeeever to get your trucks going, but that's not important.
What's important is hmmm? Let me think? What's important to me right now...:p

**Captkaos** · 06-02-2003, 02:31 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by N2TRUX
Hmmm? Ahh never mind. I don't need to get going on taking forever...

Ken,
Do you have a project going? hmmm, I thought you just had a place holder?

SCOTI · 06-02-2003, 06:19 PM

N2TRUX, did I mention it was still in the GM box. Don't worry, it's safely put up until I see you again

.

**N2TRUX** · 06-03-2003, 09:27 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Captkaos
Ken,
Do you have a project going? hmmm, I thought you just had a place holder?

I beg your pardon! It is not a place holder, or even a cup holder. It's a very expensive cat bed....

**N2TRUX** · 06-03-2003, 09:31 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by SCOTI
N2TRUX, did I mention it was still in the GM box. Don't worry, it's safely put up until I see you again .

Well my good friend Scoti. I hope to see you soon then. Maybe I'll get up that way when we get back from Florida.
Did I mention that is a really nice shirt you have on? Have you been working out?....

05-29-2003, 05:15 PM	#1
BaggedC10 Under construction! Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: NorCal Posts: 1,065	Suggestions before going all the way...??? Down to a bare frame that is. Right now, I have to remove the cab, radiator support, f/r suspension setups, fuel tanks, brake/fuel lines, and other miscellaneous parts. Aside from labeling everything and taking pictures, any other things I should do? __________________ 2001 Silverado bagged on 22's. Sold

05-29-2003, 05:54 PM	#3
old Rusty C10 Robert Olson Transport Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: recent transplant to NC USA Posts: 20,310	take LOTS of pictures both overviews and CLOSEUPS __________________ Bob 1951 International running on a squarebody chassis "If a man's worth is judged by the people he associates himself with, then i am the richest man in the world knowing some of the fine people of this board" http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...t.php?f=25&a=9 (you can review the site rules here!) PM Me for your vehicle/parts hauling needs in the North East US or see my Facebook page Robert Olson Transport Live each day to the fullest.. you never know when fate is going to pull the rug out from under you... I hate cancer!!

05-29-2003, 05:55 PM	#4
Captkaos www.73-87chevytrucks.com Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Birmingham, AL Posts: 6,935	Amen to what Jeff said. The only other this I can say is if you are anal about perfection, DON'T DO IT!!!! __________________ Chris Lucas 1973 Chevy C-10 1978 GMC Jimmy (2WD) - SOLD 1987 R10 twin turbo LS 1991 R3500 SRW CrewCab 1985 K5 diesel swapped project 1989 K5 2WD conversion w/ Vette susp Project Captkaos Customs 73-87chevytrucks.com

05-29-2003, 06:39 PM	#6
SCOTI Registered User Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: DALLAS,TX Posts: 22,066	A brief novel?? If I had it to do over again . . .... buy a separate frame & perform all the work to it . . . . . then just swap the parts over when it's complete. This does several different things @ once. It gives you another frame for reference w/mods, it allows you to easily move & store the body w/o worry, & it's alot easier to just unbolt stuff from one & swap it over to the other right away so you remember how it was done. When all is said & done, you can sell your frame for whatever the 'swap' frame cost so your only temporarily out of pocket. I took my 67 all the way down, blasted everything, then epoxy primer & painted it only to keep doing more/different mods that required more grinding, welding, & drilling which kind of 'ruined' the whole strip-n-paint philosophy. Besides the problem of no workspace because I've got a disassembled truck scattered about, after having to move the body back & forth out of the way when making mods, I finally went out & just bought another rolling chassis, turbo400 w/yoke, & driveshaft for $300. Now I'll 're-do' the mods I did to the other frame so the whole thing looks like it wasn't one afterthought after another. I know all my future projects will be done this way as well. Scot __________________ 67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... *Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.*

05-30-2003, 10:00 AM	#7
Captkaos www.73-87chevytrucks.com Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Birmingham, AL Posts: 6,935	I will agree with SCOTI's philosopy. There are things I just "forgot" that I don't want to go back and do now. Then next one will just have a frame made for it and I will get the running/driving body like I want it while still able to drive. When it comes time to paint everything, I will just swap it over to the new frame. __________________ Chris Lucas 1973 Chevy C-10 1978 GMC Jimmy (2WD) - SOLD 1987 R10 twin turbo LS 1991 R3500 SRW CrewCab 1985 K5 diesel swapped project 1989 K5 2WD conversion w/ Vette susp Project Captkaos Customs 73-87chevytrucks.com

05-29-2003, 05:25 PM	#2
bigblock73 yeller Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Twin Cities Posts: 13,824	Keep all parts together (build or buy some standing shelves) and bag every component and all its accessories (screws, bolts, etc...) together and label the bags with perm marker. Also, do not throw anything away no matter how it looks or no matter if you think you won't need it...YOU WILL for whatever reason. Good luck - Jeff

05-30-2003, 11:05 AM	#8
1FaastC10 Account Suspended Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Elkhart, IN Posts: 6,399	i'm going to build my chassis, then disasemble it, and paint it. no worries for me about something not matching. i'll probably end up doing the whole truck like that. Ziplock bags and sharpie markers are your BEST friend. i bet i've got 100 different bags in a box from my C10. everything is marked, so no worries about where the hardware went or how it goes together.

05-30-2003, 12:30 PM	#10
SCOTI Registered User Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: DALLAS,TX Posts: 22,066	I'll contest Chris' throne for 'how long does it take'. . . .... I took my 67 down to the frame around 92. __________________ 67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... *Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.*

05-30-2003, 04:35 PM	#11
solidaxel Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Cactus Patch So. Az Posts: 4,749	Has anybody used POR-15? Does it work Is it worth the money? __________________ 53 TuTone Extended Cab 350 4-Spd 3:08 (SOLD) 53 Chevy Moldy pearl green ZZ-4 4L60E 9" 3:25 55 GMC 1st Black Mll (ZZ4) ZZ6 TKO 600 5 sp 3:73 62 Solidaxle Corvette Roman Red (327 340hp 4spd 3:36) C4 & C5 suspension tube chassis LS 3 4L70E 65 Corvette Coupe 327 350hp 4spd 4:11 78 Black Silverado SWB (350/350) 5.3 & 4L60E 3:42 2000 S-Type 3.0 (wife cruiser) 2003 GMC SCSB 5.3 4L60E 3:42

05-30-2003, 10:48 PM	#13
phantom dually Project92 SWB stepside Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Louisville KY Posts: 4,792	I would strongly suggest you get all your suspension and frame mods done first then pull it back apart again to have it painted or coated. I started with a powder coated frame and rear axle only to have to cut brackets off and re weld. I changed my mind from a leaf set up to a 4 link and from stock arms to tubular. Its been a pain beecause I am scared to F up the powder coating __________________ 92 C1500 stepside 496 Stroker Competiton Engineering Ladder bars/QA1 coilovers. Dana 60 rear with 4.10 gear and posi. Bonspeed Palisade 20x12 in rear w/335/30/20 and 20x8.5 front w/245/40/20. 5/8 drop with Belltech springs/DJM spindles/drop shocks. WWS Progress thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=140448

05-30-2003, 11:38 PM	#14
N2TRUX Happy to be here Join Date: Mar 2000 Location: Cypress, TX Posts: 39,021	Hmmm? Ahh never mind. I don't need to get going on taking forever... __________________ Follow me on Facebook and Instagram @N2trux.com Articles- "Jake" the 84 to 74 crewcab "Elwood" the77_Remix 85 GMC Sierra "Scarlett" "Refining Sierra"

05-30-2003, 11:59 PM	#15
SCOTI Registered User Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: DALLAS,TX Posts: 22,066	'sub'liminal msg N2TRUX, I know you've got nothing BRAND but good things to say SPANKING about the time NEW Captkaos & myself GM have invested in our REAR BURB various ongoing BUMPER and current projects. So W/YOUR NAME ON IT play nice. Wink, wink. __________________ 67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... *Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.*

05-31-2003, 12:04 AM	#16
bigblock73 yeller Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Twin Cities Posts: 13,824	Call me crazy but do i see a hidden message there somewhere?? ...Jeff

06-01-2003, 04:21 AM	#17
mike reeh 5 day ban, learn to behave. Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: san diego, ca Posts: 683	it aint that hard.. I didnt find it necessary to label that much stuff (read: anything) ... the frame and its components are pretty self explanitory... i recommend having the frame powder coated.. thats what I did.. you should have seen what i dropped off and what I picked up. it was worth every penny and then some. just the fact that I wasnt sanding/scraping/etc was worth it to me. the finish product is A+ mike

06-01-2003, 11:16 AM	#18
bagged81 Signals in the bumper. Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: East TN Posts: 856	Has making sure that the frame is square been suggested yet? __________________ Jeff C. 1981 Chevrolet Silverado - Under major construction...again. link 1962 Chevrolet Impala 4D Sedan moredoorclassics.com 1936 Ford Pickup - Frame-off in progress link 1979 Chevrolet Camper Special Flatbed link



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06-01-2003, 06:23 PM	#20
1FaastC10 Account Suspended Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Elkhart, IN Posts: 6,399	Mike, i dont think i NEEDED to either, as i've torn apart several of these trucks. however, it is a good idea, just in cast you do happen to forget something.

06-02-2003, 06:19 PM	#23
SCOTI Registered User Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: DALLAS,TX Posts: 22,066	N2TRUX, did I mention it was still in the GM box. Don't worry, it's safely put up until I see you again . __________________ 67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... *Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.*

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