'67 K20 Whats it Worth?

[RPIcka]

Found a '67 C10 cab on a K20 frame with an owner built wood bed. Frame is rust free and the cab is almost rust free too. The paint however is a mixed bag and the grey appears to have been brushed on. The straight 6 drips a bit of oil and might need a tune up. I'm looking for something to drive in the winter and its going to be a daily driver/work truck. What do you guys think its worth? Anything to look out for? The truck has power brakes and steering some someone upgraded those at one time, the brakes need a strong leg but I'm guessing thats just the drum brakes? It has a 4 speed manual. Opinions would be great. Thanks.

[Mister-B]

Well, it doesn't have a V8, and that bed is pretty home made looking, which means it'll wear on your nerves and you'll need to find a replacement bed.

I've noticed the value depends a lot on where in the world you're located. For around here, that truck would go for maybe a thousand- $1,500
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[msgross]

is it a drum brake front end?

Is it a 292 engine?

It it's in good running condition then I think a few thousand is fair, especially up north...

[RPIcka]

drum brakes and a 250 motor

[RPIcka]

the owner is asking $2,500

[msgross]

bench seat?

that's not a bad starting point on price... cash talks though

[ETsC10]

Originally Posted by RPIcka

the owner is asking $2,500

IMHO, for a work truck and if it's fairly mechanically sound, sounds pretty OK to me.
The fact that someone's added PS/PB would sell me alone plus if it's a 292, it would be a no-brainer.


.

[vectorit]

Looks like a SWB?
Brakes shouldn't require a lot of leg to get the truck to stop even if they are drum brakes, it probably has a bad power booster or the brakes need to be overhauled.

My K20 Suburban has 4 wheel drum brakes, and it doesn't take any more leg to stop than any other truck.

Like mentioned above, cash talks and I would try to get it as cheap as possible.
Since overhauling the brakes, and getting the engine sealed up and tuned will require time and money to get it on the road safely.

[71swb4x4]

If it's on a K20 frame it is a LWB.
I think $1,500 would be a good price. Then I would add or subtract based on various things. If the PS and PB were done right I would add. If it's a 292 I would add. If it's on a 67-72 frame I would add. If those are factory tow hooks I would add.

What is hiding under the brushed on paint? Maybe some poor repairs hiding the rust you think is missing? This could be a deal killer IMO.

How do you know it's a half ton cab and not the original cab? Are both the truck frame and frame VIN OK with the DMV? Would hate to see you try to register it only to find out the frame is stolen.

[vectorit]

Originally Posted by 71swb4x4

If it's on a K20 frame it is a LWB.

As put together as that rig is, I was thinking the 3/4 axles were swapped in place of 1/2 tons.

[69GWC]

Boy I dont see it, needs two fenders a bed and leaks oil, tires and wheels. I say $1500 as well.
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[71swb4x4]

Originally Posted by vectorit

As put together as that rig is, I was thinking the 3/4 axles were swapped in place of 1/2 tons.

It could be. He says in the first post its on a K20 frame, and the gap between the cab and rear axle looks like a LWB to me. Tough to conclusively determine that through photos though, especially with the angle.

[1972RedNeck]

Drum brakes require less effort on the pedal than disc brakes.

[msgross]

68 front fenders but the hooks do look original, that's $200 alone...

[RPIcka]

He told me that the Cab is from a C10 and the frame is a K20. The frame may have been shortened as the rear shackle hangers are within a couple inches from the end of the frame. Like I said I'm looking for something that I can rely on driving through the winter and was just wondering everyones thoughts as I don't know much about the 250 motor and drum brakes and just the '67 stuff. I do like the fact that it is power steering and power brakes I just don't want to buy something and have to worry about fixing stuff right off the bat or at least have an idea of how easy it would be.

[leddzepp]

Generally speaking, an inline 6 is VERY reliable. But you are buying a franken-truck that has been thrown together, so I would be very cautious in looking it over. It sounds like you are more concerned with reliability than looks, so I would focus on the condition of the drivetrain and worry less about what is hiding under that paint (I would venture that there is a lot of rust hiding given the age and appearance of the truck, and your location)

[RPIcka]

Surprisingly it seems like the body is in good shape regardless of the paint. But ya, I'm looking for a driver, nothing pretty.

[ChevLoRay]

Looks to me like you found it!

[RPIcka]

I'm thinking so, just like everyones thoughts