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06-11-2003, 10:40 AM | #1 |
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Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: CRESTVIEW,FL,US
Posts: 355
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brake pedal adjustment?
Is there such a thing? I want to get some of the mechanical slop out of my pedal. Is there any kind of adjustment that can be made. o yea there power, if thats a need to know thing. I have alread bleed the begezus out of them. any ideas?
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70 SWB, 4/6" DROP,20X8 & 20X9.5. BOYD TIMELESS 5,93 BURB POWER SEATS, BILLET SPECIALTIES STEERING WHEELS. SOON TO BE VOTECH AND TBI POWERED. O YEA AND WAL-MART IS THE DEVIL!!! |
06-11-2003, 03:32 PM | #2 |
its all about the +6 inches
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Hilliard Ohio
Posts: 2,690
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I had gone through all this on my old 3/4 ton and these were my observations.
Not sure on the 1/2 tons, but I know the 3/4 and one tons have a linkage that is adjustable. Remove the master cylinder, and gently pull it out of the way, no need to undo any lines, they will give enough to clear the studs on the booster. Inside the hole is a chrome rod that is adjustable. One end screws into the other. Unscrew it a little, and then reinstal your M/C to the booster and with no vac in the booster, depress the pedal with your hand. You will want a little freeplay in there, but not much. Once you feen satisfied with that, take it around the block and see if the brakes are binding. (if you make it too long, the brakes will drag.) Once you are happy with that adjustment, then take it down the freeway 10 or so miles, and see if they are dragging. Heat will make the shoes drag if they are too tight. I would have the 9/16 socket and 10 inch extention with me on the test drives so you can pop the M/S off on the side of the road if need be. Before doing any of this, pop off the drums, and ensure that yous self adjusters are not frozen, they are normally responsible for the slack you are describing. About the only way your master cylinder's push rod can be out of adjustmen, is if it was just replaced, or assembled from odd parts. (i.e., parts not from the same truck) |
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