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01-29-2013, 12:48 AM | #1 |
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Location: San Antonio, Tx
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Master Cylinder mc replacement
How can i tell what kind of Master cylinder to get
mine on my 74 c10, manual brakes(disk front drum rear), it leaks from the gasket top area I read somewhere that they have different push rods, compared to power brakes The ones i pulled up at autozone says jb1 or jb3 jb5 systems(something like that) I dont want to get the wrong one, also to replace it do i just got to undo it from the engine area, undo the brake lines and put the new one in, or do i got to mess with the brakes inside? Thanks Frog210
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San Antonio, TEXAS -Frog -I'm a valet and well I've driven BMWs, Mercedes, Porsche,Bentlys, fiats, Hondas, etc and well even do I like a few features, I love my shortbed, it dosent bore me out, just press on the gas and you'll remember why you love it. |
01-29-2013, 07:39 AM | #2 |
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Re: Master Cylinder mc replacement
Here's the brake system chart showing the apply system for a '74 C10:
You can see the JB1, JB3, JB5 systems across the top, based on GVW of the truck. The fact that yours is manual immediately makes it a JB1 system. K
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Chevrolet Flint Assembly 1979-1986 GM Full Size Truck Engineering 1986 - 2019 Intro from an Old Assembly Guy: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=342926 My Pontiac story: http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=560524 Chevelle intro: http://www.superchevy.com/features/s...hevy-chevelle/ |
01-29-2013, 10:58 AM | #3 |
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Re: Master Cylinder mc replacement
"it leaks from the gasket top area"
some people add fluid to a low level,then get new pads/shoes on, and the level goes up,overflowing it leaking from the lid? replaceable seal on it your gona need to bleed all four wheels if you crack it
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01-29-2013, 11:58 AM | #4 |
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Re: Master Cylinder mc replacement
It leaks around the gasket area,
i took it to my brake class at school and the teacher told me it would be ideal to replace it, i guess where the seal contacts it has some rust and grooves(plus autozone, oreilys, napa, advance didnt have the gasket) if im reading this picture right i got a JB1 system correct Are these the correct ones i can use http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par..._0_2867%2C3311 http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par..._0_2867%2C3311 TIA!!!
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San Antonio, TEXAS -Frog -I'm a valet and well I've driven BMWs, Mercedes, Porsche,Bentlys, fiats, Hondas, etc and well even do I like a few features, I love my shortbed, it dosent bore me out, just press on the gas and you'll remember why you love it. |
01-29-2013, 03:46 PM | #5 |
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Re: Master Cylinder mc replacement
I just replaced the mc on my 83 C20. A local brake shop used a Raybestos MC as a replacement a couple years ago and after my truck sat for 2 months waiting for a dump hoist rebuild, I very little braking power. So, I discovered a leak around the top cover and replaced the gasket under it with one from NAPA (about $6). After a lot of fiddling with it I got the leak to stop, but there was a lot of rust on the cover and around the top edge of the mc (and this is in AZ.)
So, I bought a new AC Delco MC online (lots of places to get Delco for cheap online.) I had my mechanic replace the master cylinder and he said there was a lot of air in the lines. Braking is AOK now. Bottom line, the gasket under the cover can be replaced, but you should probably check to make sure there is no rust in the cylinder and drain/refill the fluid. Don't buy a Raybestos MC. |
01-29-2013, 04:05 PM | #6 |
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Re: Master Cylinder mc replacement
I typed my info into autozone and those are the two that look like the they might work, are master cylinder pretty easy to install?
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San Antonio, TEXAS -Frog -I'm a valet and well I've driven BMWs, Mercedes, Porsche,Bentlys, fiats, Hondas, etc and well even do I like a few features, I love my shortbed, it dosent bore me out, just press on the gas and you'll remember why you love it. |
01-29-2013, 05:05 PM | #7 |
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Re: Master Cylinder mc replacement
Yeah, they are a breeze to install. Might take 30 minutes if even that. I recommend bench bleeding it before putting it on the truck.
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77 C10, 6.0LS/4L80E, 3:73 12 bolt. Boss 338's 20" x 10" w/ 285/50/20 rear. 20" x 8.5" w/ 245/40/20 front. Vintage Air. Full Autometer gauges recessed in factory bezel (Thanks bigblock73!) Gm Storm Grey Metallic paint "Cool ain't ever cheap and cheap ain't ever cool" |
01-29-2013, 10:25 PM | #8 |
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Re: Master Cylinder mc replacement
just so i think of it
just remove the brake lines, remove the 2 bolts from the firewall, take the old mc off, then replace and repeat the steps backwards Correct
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San Antonio, TEXAS -Frog -I'm a valet and well I've driven BMWs, Mercedes, Porsche,Bentlys, fiats, Hondas, etc and well even do I like a few features, I love my shortbed, it dosent bore me out, just press on the gas and you'll remember why you love it. |
01-29-2013, 10:34 PM | #9 |
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Re: Master Cylinder mc replacement
I would bench bleed the new one and get it ready to go before you do anything. Once that is done, remove the two nuts holding it on and then unhook the brake lines. Bolt the new one to the booster and hook your brake lines back up. You will need to bleed it at all 4 wheels after that. Make sure you have plenty of fresh brake fluid on hand. I just re-read your last post and realized that you may not have a brake booster so ignore my comment about bolting it to the booster.
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77 C10, 6.0LS/4L80E, 3:73 12 bolt. Boss 338's 20" x 10" w/ 285/50/20 rear. 20" x 8.5" w/ 245/40/20 front. Vintage Air. Full Autometer gauges recessed in factory bezel (Thanks bigblock73!) Gm Storm Grey Metallic paint "Cool ain't ever cheap and cheap ain't ever cool" |
01-29-2013, 10:38 PM | #10 |
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Re: Master Cylinder mc replacement
I may be wrong but if you have manual brakes you may have to climb under thedash and unhook the rod from the brake pedal that pushed the master cylinder. IIRC when I converted from manual to power my old MC had the rod built into it.
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77 C10, 6.0LS/4L80E, 3:73 12 bolt. Boss 338's 20" x 10" w/ 285/50/20 rear. 20" x 8.5" w/ 245/40/20 front. Vintage Air. Full Autometer gauges recessed in factory bezel (Thanks bigblock73!) Gm Storm Grey Metallic paint "Cool ain't ever cheap and cheap ain't ever cool" |
01-30-2013, 03:46 AM | #11 |
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Re: Master Cylinder mc replacement
I'm sorry but I have to ask, you are currently in a brake class and you don't know how to do something so basic as replace a master cylinder? What school are you attending?
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01-30-2013, 10:42 AM | #12 |
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Re: Master Cylinder mc replacement
now i just got into brakes class, right now where doing all that fun stuff brakes, rotors, pads, cutting, etc...
i just had questions about the master cylinder, cus its something so important and often over looked I just wanted to make sure i was gonna do it right by asking a few question here...
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San Antonio, TEXAS -Frog -I'm a valet and well I've driven BMWs, Mercedes, Porsche,Bentlys, fiats, Hondas, etc and well even do I like a few features, I love my shortbed, it dosent bore me out, just press on the gas and you'll remember why you love it. |
02-05-2013, 12:02 AM | #13 |
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Re: Master Cylinder mc replacement
I believe jb1, jb3, or jb5 has something to do with the power booster. Some boosters are single diaphragm, and some are two. And don't get a Cardon master cyl. I am on my third one. I have an 87. Mine has a plastic reservoir. I don't know if 87 had an all metal master or not.
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02-05-2013, 08:00 AM | #14 | |
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Re: Master Cylinder mc replacement
Quote:
For '87 the master cylinder was aluminum with a plastic reservoir (for vacuum boost trucks). Hydro boost was cast iron. K
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Chevrolet Flint Assembly 1979-1986 GM Full Size Truck Engineering 1986 - 2019 Intro from an Old Assembly Guy: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=342926 My Pontiac story: http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=560524 Chevelle intro: http://www.superchevy.com/features/s...hevy-chevelle/ |
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02-05-2013, 09:22 AM | #15 |
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Re: Master Cylinder mc replacement
my 87 looked like that
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02-05-2013, 02:37 PM | #16 | |
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Re: Master Cylinder mc replacement
Quote:
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02-05-2013, 04:02 PM | #17 | |
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Re: Master Cylinder mc replacement
Quote:
You can revert back to a cast iron unit from a previous model year but it might take some trickery. I've had some cast iron m/c where the front chamber goes to the rear brakes and the rear chamber to the front system and aluminum units where it's the opposite (front==>front; rear==>rear) ...or vice versa... In that case you would have to swap the brake lines. Not as straightforward as keeping your current style. K
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Chevrolet Flint Assembly 1979-1986 GM Full Size Truck Engineering 1986 - 2019 Intro from an Old Assembly Guy: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=342926 My Pontiac story: http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=560524 Chevelle intro: http://www.superchevy.com/features/s...hevy-chevelle/ |
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02-05-2013, 11:19 PM | #18 |
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Re: Master Cylinder mc replacement
Search MC on Amazon, then try:
oewarehouse.com oehq.com autopartstomorrow.com rockauto.com gmpartsdirect.com Rock Auto can be used to get the correct GM or AC Delco part number, then use that part number to search the sources cited above. |
02-06-2013, 12:43 PM | #19 |
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Re: Master Cylinder mc replacement
Had a bit of a fiasco getting the correct master cylinder for my truck locally a few weeks ago, went to O'Reiley, did the typical rundown and went home with what should have been a new master cylinder for my 75 with manual brakes, got home only to discover i had actually been given a mc for the 75 with power brakes, took it back and explained to the clerk what was wrong, turns out they didnt even have the option of power or manual brakes in their system so be careful they were very insistent that they had given me the right part! They ended up having to pull info up on a 70' pickup i believe, I for one will never go back to an O'Reiley after this experience.
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02-06-2013, 03:32 PM | #20 | |
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Re: Master Cylinder mc replacement
Quote:
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02-07-2013, 02:08 AM | #21 |
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Re: Master Cylinder mc replacement
yes they are different, on the manual brakes the master cylinder has a sort of socket female type piece that the brake rod sinks into about 4 inches, on the power brake master cylinder there was only a small divet where the rod should have gone in a couple inches, not positive but if i remember right the front and rear lined from the proportioning valve may have been reversed as well.
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