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02-04-2013, 04:30 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Elk Grove, CA.
Posts: 29
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Cut springs to lower...
I've got a 70 chevy that was already lowered with 2.5 spindles & shackles along with a leaf taken out. I want to drop the front another inch atleast! I'm thinking a half a coil cut will drop the front an inch...My question is if I cut the spring, (half coil) the spring obviously won't sit in the pockets rights? Or just set it in the lower pocket & where ever the top ends up it is what it is? I assume it's no big deal...just thought I'd ask!
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02-07-2013, 08:45 AM | #2 |
67-72 parts collector,…
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Mid-MO
Posts: 22,700
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Re: Cut springs to lower...
Align the TOP of the spring.
There is a "D" shape up in the spring pocket,... that must be "clocked" correctly with the upper part of the spring. Let the bottom go whereever it goes.
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Keith Convert to disc brakes. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=444823 |
02-07-2013, 09:23 AM | #3 |
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Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Elk Grove, CA.
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Re: Cut springs to lower...
I just realized this...thanks for the info though! Just wasn't sure if the pocket was like that or not & wanted an idea before I did it. Appreciate it!
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02-07-2013, 10:33 AM | #4 |
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Location: phoenix
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Re: Cut springs to lower...
I'm going through the same thing, but was worried that if I cut the bottom of the spring, the contact on the A arm will go from a full circumference to just a small pressure point - any issues on the A arm holding up under this pin-point stress?
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02-07-2013, 10:39 AM | #5 | |
67-72 parts collector,…
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Mid-MO
Posts: 22,700
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Re: Cut springs to lower...
Quote:
I've been cutting 1/2 coils or 1-1/2 coils for a LONG time. It's not a precison fit by any means. Even in the stock configuration.
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Keith Convert to disc brakes. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=444823 |
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02-07-2013, 02:04 PM | #6 |
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Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Temple City
Posts: 3,629
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Re: Cut springs to lower...
The only thing I will add is I like to cut springs in a bucket of water that way the heat is pulled out fast so the spring doesn't de-temper. I also like to use a angle grinder with the thin blades "1/16", but some people prefer the 1/8" version.
I have probably cut 50 pairs of springs, and quite a few of those were trimmed again too. We cut a pair of C20 springs for a friends C10, and even though I cut through it in like 30 seconds it de-tempered. Where as the other spring was fine, but ones I cut in a bucket have never failed me. Out of the 10 I did with no bucket of water I had 2 failures. So I went to the bucket. The first failure I had was complete inexperience of a 17 year old gear head, and the second I don't know. |
02-07-2013, 02:16 PM | #7 | |
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Re: Cut springs to lower...
Quote:
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1972 C/10 Cheyenne Super SWB. Restored, loaded, slammed. 1968 C/10 50th Anniversary LWB. Unrestored, stock, daily driver/work truck. RIP ElJay RIP 67ChevyRedneck RIP Grumpy Old Man RIP FleetsidePaul |
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02-10-2013, 05:06 PM | #8 |
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Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Bertram, TX
Posts: 103
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Re: Cut springs to lower...
I 100% agree. Heat kills springs & a bucket of water & a thin grinder wheel is the way to go. The only way I've ever done it & I've never bad a bad spring afterwards.
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02-10-2013, 09:00 PM | #9 |
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Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Elk Grove, CA.
Posts: 29
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Re: Cut springs to lower...
Well I just got done cutting 5/8 of a coil off each spring...drove around for a bit & it settled at 1.5 inches lower than it was, just need the rear leaf stuff to show up now! I also put the c-notch plates in today. Sure looks like the top plate of the leaf pack that slides over the u-bolts is gonna hit the frame where the c-notch is...maybe just trim as much off as I can.
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