Under hood Alarm System

[ol_skool_chevy]

Has anyone here installed a under hood Alarm System to their truck. I tend to park my truck in the Driveway not in my garage. ( I live in a Pretty safe area ) and I lock my doors. I have not had a problem in over 30 years but now I have a new motor I think a hood open alarm might be a good idea....
Anyone have a cleaver idea???

[joeydirt]

what about some kind of cable release lock that could go under the dash similar to a modern truck but maybe hidden

[AcampoDave]

I would like an underhood alarm too. What about a dome light plunger switch tied into the horn somehow. Since the horn wire to the steering wheel is only a ground, i wonder if diverting that same wire thru a plunger switch that is grounded in the truck body would sound the horn if the plunger can complete the ground. But would the horn still work at the steering wheel?

[kieth]

Originally Posted by AcampoDave

I would like an underhood alarm too. What about a dome light plunger switch tied into the horn somehow. Since the horn wire to the steering wheel is only a ground, i wonder if diverting that same wire thru a plunger switch that is grounded in the truck body would sound the horn if the plunger can complete the ground. But would the horn still work at the steering wheel?

It will work and the horn will work fine also, just put a switch on the ground wire so you can lift the hood to work on the truck......Keith

[AcampoDave]

I'm gonna go for it this winter when my work slows down. Should the hood switch run in line with the horn ground or on a seperate loop?

[AcampoDave]

Just to clarify, I should have said plunger switch, the deactivation switch I can configure. Seems if the plunger was in line on the horn ground, the button on the wheel wouldn't make the circuit because the continuity would be interupted at the plunger. Wouldn't it?

[19666Trucker]

You have to make hot with on/off switch (deactivate ) run the plunger in the same wire. I would a different horn so not easy to rip the wires off and place the plunger switch in hard to get place to. May get fancy get strobe light to blind.
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[BR3W CITY]

I just have a 3ft ultra heavy gauge wrapped strand cable that I put through the hood nostrils and the bumper, secure it with a weather-tite masterlock. Its kept the lq4 pretty safe so far, and it doubles as an excellent bludgeon or flailed weapon.

IMO its not a good idea to put any "active" electonics on these older cars. Things like alarms and 2 way remotes, even solenoid door actuators can be problematic on a car that doesn't get driven everyday, especially with the issue of parasitic drain (i.e. don't put a capacitor in your audio system, but thats another story)

I'm more on the K.I.S.S. train of thought.....and this is coming from someone who has by no means kep it simple (though often stupid)

[tincan1966]

I've run electronics in these old trucks for years, with no problems. I have had shaved door handles, modern stereo with amp and capacitor. alarms, keyless entry, EFI, etc.

The "old truck" syndrome doesn't always apply IF you build accordingly. Proper planning and upgrading of the vehicle with good charging system, updated wiring harness, proper circuit planning and assembly,grounding, etc makes these old trucks just like a new one.
Installation of a simple battery disconnect switch will solve any drainage concerns.

[ol_skool_chevy]

All nice ideas to consider guys Thanks.
I'm thinking power off the battery to a activation switch then to a plunger switch then to a horn then to a ground that might be a simple clean install maybe add a horn independent from my driving horn....But I am liking the strobe light idea just as a shock factor...Hhahahaha...

[BR3W CITY]

Originally Posted by tincan1966

I've run electronics in these old trucks for years, with no problems. I have had shaved door handles, modern stereo with amp and capacitor. alarms, keyless entry, EFI, etc.

The "old truck" syndrome doesn't always apply IF you build accordingly. Proper planning and upgrading of the vehicle with good charging system, updated wiring harness, proper circuit planning and assembly,grounding, etc makes these old trucks just like a new one.
Installation of a simple battery disconnect switch will solve any drainage concerns.

Id argue that proper planning of a build WOULD NOT include a capacitor, nor rely on a disconnect switch, especially if its efi.....but I digress.
While there is nothing wrong with installing an alarm etc, but most trucks, especially those that haven't been re-done entirely, naturally lack some of the supporting systems. This is for ACTIVE electronics, in other words, things that use power regardless of key on or calling for power...
Alarms will call for power under all circumstance, including running the battery dead to do so. Its fine for a daily that will get a full charge and not sit, or something that sits on a charger. Same goes for door actuators, air ride valves etc etc etc. If a component runs with key off, it can drain your battery, especially if it needs a maintenance voltage for a wireless antenna etc.


To the P.o. ; you can jack a bunch of plunger switches off junkyard cars and use them for the hood, doors etc. Run 1 toggle switch to "arm" aka 12v power, and a number of normally closed switches (so when depressed they are "off" and vice versa). Put that as the trigger voltage to a relay, and run the relay to a horn/lights etc. That way if the switch is armed, and the door opens, Sh!t hits the fan.

[tincan1966]

Originally Posted by BR3W CITY

Id argue that proper planning of a build WOULD NOT include a capacitor, nor rely on a disconnect switch, especially if its efi.....but I digress.
While there is nothing wrong with installing an alarm etc, but most trucks, especially those that haven't been re-done entirely, naturally lack some of the supporting systems. This is for ACTIVE electronics, in other words, things that use power regardless of key on or calling for power...
Alarms will call for power under all circumstance, including running the battery dead to do so. Its fine for a daily that will get a full charge and not sit, or something that sits on a charger. Same goes for door actuators, air ride valves etc etc etc. If a component runs with key off, it can drain your battery, especially if it needs a maintenance voltage for a wireless antenna etc.


To the P.o. ; you can jack a bunch of plunger switches off junkyard cars and use them for the hood, doors etc. Run 1 toggle switch to "arm" aka 12v power, and a number of normally closed switches (so when depressed they are "off" and vice versa). Put that as the trigger voltage to a relay, and run the relay to a horn/lights etc. That way if the switch is armed, and the door opens, Sh!t hits the fan.

As usual my point was misunderstood completely.

My point was IF you plan ahead while building, you can accommodate to such things as a capacitor, if you'll need one, and/or a disconnect switch.

The amount of amperage draw to keep an alarm system alive in very minimal, not like it's running a light bulb or something.


And for the PO- the simplest way to accomplish what you are wanting, without a bunch of ugly switches, is a simple relay.
Connect both the # 87 and 85 to Battery + (fused of coarse) with an "ON-OFF" switch
Terminal # 86 to your door jamb switch(use GM type-self grounding)
terminal #30 to the horn + GM horn is self grounding thru the mounting.
If you do not want a solid horn sound, you can install a 2 pole turn signal flasher inline in the BATT + wire to make it intermittent.
This will give good circuit protection and reliable usage.

[gofastnut]

I know this isn't an alarm, but check out what C 4 Metal works did with the hood latch.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=487701&page=2
Post 26 I think.
Obviously not as good as an alarm, but still a really good idea!
My $.02

[tincan1966]

Another point to ponder, tho. IF your truck has a stock steering column, and ignition, a hood lock will do absolutely nothing to keep the truck from being stolen, if that is your concern. One jimmied vent window and about 1 minute under the dash and it's gone.

Now if you're just worried about parts being stolen, then it might help a bit.

[Pop's C-10]

Adding a horn like a late madel caddy would be good..those things are super loud

[ol_skool_chevy]

Originally Posted by tincan1966

Another point to ponder, tho. IF your truck has a stock steering column, and ignition, a hood lock will do absolutely nothing to keep the truck from being stolen, if that is your concern. One jimmied vent window and about 1 minute under the dash and it's gone.

Now if you're just worried about parts being stolen, then it might help a bit.

I more worried about parts getting boosted...but you all have valued ideas to consider.
I'm liking all this input....Thanks

[Rich 5150 69]

When I built my own many years back, it used the battery but you could not access the wires from unerneather the truck, as they said used door plungers, doors and hood and wired in a mercury switch for motion such as jacking... worked great I used a simple bell so I knew it was mine if it would go off..they key was hidden in the C10 emblem on the cowl side.

[19666Trucker]

If you plan getting air bags you may wells get a train horn. The possibly of setting up booby traps. Just remember to remove before flight right lol. Picture this guys A thug is managed to open the hood flash from super bright strobe light and blast of 160dlbs. If they don't run then dam. Just make sure this on camera.
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[ol_skool_chevy]

Originally Posted by 19666Trucker

If you plan getting air bags you may wells get a train horn. The possibly of setting up booby traps. Just remember to remove before flight right lol. Picture this guys A thug is managed to open the hood flash from super bright strobe light and blast of 160dlbs. If they don't run then dam. Just make sure this on camera.
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