10-15-2013, 05:07 PM | #1 |
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89 Jimmy Stumbling
'89 Jimmy, 5.7 TBI, rust on the fender, flames on the hood, worn out tie rod ends
I know the last few details weren't germane to the topic and the picture was totally unnecessary, but everybody likes to look at pictures. So I did something really stupid...I ran my '89 Jimmy pretty much out of gas last weekend. Ever since then it has been running a bit rough and stumbling under load. Seems to be much worse when the engine is warm. I've changed the fuel filter already, and it sounds to me like a fuel delivery issue, but I'm not looking forward to dropping the tank and replacing the fuel pump (I'm assuming pump got some crap in it and is going bad). Just wondering if anyone out there has any troubleshooting tips before I drop cash on a new fuel pump. Thanks in advance for your help. |
10-15-2013, 05:09 PM | #2 |
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Re: 89 Jimmy Stumbling
Oh yah...another detail that doesn't matter is that I'm about to trade up to some 33x9.50 BFGs. I don't like wide tires for winter driving and the 33's will fill the fender wells a little better.
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10-16-2013, 01:31 PM | #3 |
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Re: 89 Jimmy Stumbling
Not even a comment how stupid it was...?
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10-16-2013, 02:05 PM | #4 |
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Re: 89 Jimmy Stumbling
Do the tbi's have a filter right at the inlet like the carbed engines or is it just the one on the frame ? Also what size tires and lift in your pic ?
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10-17-2013, 09:26 AM | #5 |
78K & 79C Jimmys
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Re: 89 Jimmy Stumbling
frame rail that i've seen,but check they can be added
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10-17-2013, 05:06 PM | #6 |
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Re: 89 Jimmy Stumbling
It's a 4" Pro Comp lift and 32x11.50 15 tires. I'm going with 33x9.50 as soon as these wear out. Wide tires and worn out steering components don't mix well, but I'm fixing all tie rod pieces this weekend. I tried to do it today, but the nuts need a torch wrench to get them off.
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10-17-2013, 05:40 PM | #7 | |
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Re: 89 Jimmy Stumbling
Quote:
Check out Autozone as a lot of their tie rod ends are Moogs. Also, new ball joints will help tighten things up too if you are in there.
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- Jeff 89' K5 Blazer, 2.5" lift, 35" tires 04' GMC Yukon XL, 3/4 ton, 8.1L |
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10-17-2013, 11:53 PM | #8 |
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Re: 89 Jimmy Stumbling
Thanks Ski-me. Problem was getting the nut off. I have a pickle fork to pound with but I gotta get the nut off first. I'm replacing the tie rod stuff first, and will do the upper and lower ball joints only if I have to. I hate having to get them pressed in. I checked autozone to get all the moog part #'s, then bought them from amazon.com much much much much much cheaper. For my '97 silverado they wanted $250 for pitman arm, idler arm, and idler arm bracket. I bought it all from amazon for $140, free 2nd day shipping.
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10-18-2013, 01:59 PM | #9 | |
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Re: 89 Jimmy Stumbling
Quote:
Try getting the fork in there and applying a bunch of downward pressure and then try impacting the nut off. Just trying to keep the bolt from spinning. And of course, WD-40 or penetrating oil.
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- Jeff 89' K5 Blazer, 2.5" lift, 35" tires 04' GMC Yukon XL, 3/4 ton, 8.1L |
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10-18-2013, 05:09 PM | #10 |
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Re: 89 Jimmy Stumbling
I am willing to bet when you drop the tank, you will find a piece of rubber hose between the fuel pump and sending unit. That hose will be split, slit, or have a hole in it.
If you want to know if its fuel pump or not, do a fuel pressure test. 9-13 PSI is normal. If you're lower than that, go ahead and drop the tank. It isn't that bad. At least you don't have dual tanks and aren't having to fight with too high of fuel pressure and installing a new fuel tank selector valve like I am right now... Saddle bag tanks suck. |
10-18-2013, 05:53 PM | #11 | |
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Re: 89 Jimmy Stumbling
Quote:
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10-18-2013, 05:55 PM | #12 | |
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Re: 89 Jimmy Stumbling
Quote:
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