Brake light switch

[Ricos54]

So for the under cab/floor brake assembly setup how are you setting up the brake light switch to go on when you apply the brakes? Please let me know where you bought it to? I'm stump on how to do this.
Thanks,
Rico

[OrrieG]

Stock or aftermarket brakes? Pedal ? Provisions for switch in MC or prop valve or mechanical required? More info required. On my under floor I kept the stock pedal and used the stock firewall switch.

[Ricos54]

Originally Posted by OrrieG

Stock or aftermarket brakes? Pedal ? Provisions for switch in MC or prop valve or mechanical required? More info required. On my under floor I kept the stock pedal and used the stock firewall switch.

Brakes new under cab 7" brake assembly For 54 chevy truck, brake pedal coming through the firewall in

[oldman3]

Mine is also under floor, used the stock pedal, but used this switch mounted to outside of bottom floor, right were the pivot of pedal starts, works great...Jim https://www.ronfrancis.com/prodinfo.asp?number=SW-42

[Ricos54]

Originally Posted by oldman3

Mine is also under floor, used the stock pedal, but used this switch mounted to outside of bottom floor, right were the pivot of pedal starts, works great...Jim https://www.ronfrancis.com/prodinfo.asp?number=SW-42

Thank you Jim

[Ricos54]

Is that the only item I need or do I also need to buy a relay? Or does it hook up to my fuse box?

[mr48chev]

You could use the switch like Oldman3 showed or mount a stock switch that is actuated by the pedal and fastens to the bottom of the toeboard.

A stock switch http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...128_0307130376 would be easy to mount close to the bottom of the toeboard in that section that is still white now so the pedal would work it right. I'm going back with one as they give very little trouble over the years.

[Ricos54]

I just read that the Ron Francis switch works with a halogen bulb. I just ordered the flush mounted LED lights for my roll pan. Don't know if it will work with that setup or if I need a relay for the LED's

[mr48chev]

Originally Posted by Ricos54

I just read that the Ron Francis switch works with a halogen bulb. I just ordered the flush mounted LED lights for my roll pan. Don't know if it will work with that setup or if I need a relay for the LED's

The Ron Francis switch is a high amp rated switch meaning that most stop light systems won't overload it even if you are pulling a trailer. That has nothing to do with if you run led lights or not. The Flasher is the issue with LED lights as it has to be rated for LED lights or it may not flash right.

In other words there is NO PROBLEM with that switch and led lights.

[Ricos54]

Originally Posted by mr48chev

You could use the switch like Oldman3 showed or mount a stock switch that is actuated by the pedal and fastens to the bottom of the toeboard.

A stock switch http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...128_0307130376 would be easy to mount close to the bottom of the toeboard in that section that is still white now so the pedal would work it right. I'm going back with one as they give very little trouble over the years.

What about this setup you mentioned?

[mr48chev]

It's just the stock switch that came with these trucks new. As you changed the whole brake pedal setup you would have to figure out how to mount it so that it worked like the stock switch is worked when you depress the pedal.

Here is where the stock switch is is located where the arm to the pedal hits the arm on it.

[Ricos54]

Question, what about mounting a modern switch on my brake pedal arm upside down so it compresses when I apply the brakes. Would that be possible?

[mr48chev]

Question; Have you got the steering column mounted or have you attempted to mount it?

That is because the original spot where your brake pedal came through the floorboard is where I havree the arrow marked 2. The original spot where the steering column came through the floorboard was where I have marked the arrow 1 and now the pedal comes through that spot.
How are you running the steering column or have you considered that yet?


It looks like the whole master cylinder booster setup was designed to bolt to the stock master cylinder bracket and be set a few inches off the frame so the pedal went though the floor closer to the stock location.

A bracket like this


Mounted like this, this one is viewed upside down as I have my frame upside down on sawhorses right now.


My pedal arm is right at 3-1/2 inches from the inside of the frame rail while it looks like yours is a little over an inch.

Just asking, but how are you going to do the steering column?

[Ricos54]

I ended up ordering the brake light switch Jim mentioned. I liked it.

[yossarian19]

I used a pressure switch. It's a 1/8 NPT screw-in switch that goes into a "T" fitting with inverted flares for the brake lines. I was skeptical but did some research, it seems that a 1/8 NPT is supposed to be good for 5,000 PSI. It is, after all, sold for brake hydraulic use. I wrapped it three times with plumber's tape & called it good.

[Ricos54]

Originally Posted by yossarian19

I used a pressure switch. It's a 1/8 NPT screw-in switch that goes into a "T" fitting with inverted flares for the brake lines. I was skeptical but did some research, it seems that a 1/8 NPT is supposed to be good for 5,000 PSI. It is, after all, sold for brake hydraulic use. I wrapped it three times with plumber's tape & called it good.

Where did you buy it and how much was it?

[yossarian19]

I bought them on Amazon for under $20. Allstar Performance part numbers 76251 (switch) and 50137 (tee). Part number for the tee might be wrong, bit of camera flash in the picture I took of the PN.

[oldman3]

Rico, nice hook up on the steering column, looks great...Jim

[mr48chev]

Yes that steering column looks great and I see that the earlier photos you showed didn't show enough of the firewall to show it and threw me off on it.

Good choice on the Ron Francis switch. I think I might go that way as it is weather and proof and should hold up a lot better.

The pressure switch that Yossarian19 mentioned is usually a Ford switch from the 50's and 60's and maybe some 70's rigs. I've had one on my 48 for years as they are inexpensive and fairly easy to hook up but it was almost an annual task to replace the switch as one went bad about every year or two. I've read where others had the same problem. They are as simple as it gets though and the hard part is figuring out what brass fittings you need to hook one up.

[Ricos54]

Thanks guy's, I've been working steadily on my project trying to get things done. My rolling chassis is almost done, I have all the parts to rebuild my drum brakes and run my brake lines which I should get done by the end of this week. I've impressed myself with some of things I've accomplished. I've installed the bear claw in the doors and even designed a tilt bed floor as well as cap off the ends on both sides of my bed rails and this is coming from a guy that never done anything like this before.. Lol

[whitedog76]

How far up does that pedal come off of the floorboard/toeboard?

I've been wanting to do a MC/booster swap, but don't want something that I have to lift my knee to my chin.

I was thinking of a firewall unit, but I like the looks of yours too.

Chris

[Ricos54]

Originally Posted by whitedog76

How far up does that pedal come off of the floorboard/toeboard?

I've been wanting to do a MC/booster swap, but don't want something that I have to lift my knee to my chin.

I was thinking of a firewall unit, but I like the looks of yours too.

Chris

I feel the same way as you. I know the one I have is adjustable, but if it's still to high I will cut and weld to make it perfect, whatever the case I will not know until I get my brake lines in and bled

[oldman3]

Hey Rico, finally got a moment to take a couple pics on the install of my switch. Pics aren't that good, but should work OK. First pic shows that I'm still using the original pedal on a newer frame bracket. Second pic shows how the switch comes in contact with the pedal arm at the pivot point. You depress the pedal the arm moves and releases the switch and the lights come on. It's mounted using their bracket thru the floor. Been in the truck for 10 yrs and no problems. Hope this helps...Jim

[Ricos54]

Thanks Jim

[mr48chev]

That's slick Jim, thanks for posting the photo.