Power discs with manual trans in an AD

[Old Crow]

So, I'm looking for a front power disc kit for the '54 3100 I'm building for a customer.
The owner desires to keep the stock 235 and 4 speed trans, but wants power disc brakes.
So far all the kits I've found(Brother's, Master Power Brakes, CPP)say they won't work with manual transmission trucks, but none of the suppliers can tell me what the problem is. I suspect there's a conflict with the clutch pedal or linkage, but the truck isn't far enough along to test this.
Anyone out there tried to put a power booster on an AD truck while keeping the stock trans? If so, what did you have to go through to make it work, and which booster kit did you use?

[MARTINSR]

It would simply take some clever linkage design, not a big deal. You would mount the mc and booster under the floor and run linkage off the stock pedal back to it.

I still don't see the big deal with driving an otherwise stock truck with drums, I just don't get it. I drove mine for years with a 401 Buick and ran 95 mph in the quarter. I put a power brake booster on it and drove it. I drive a drum brake car now, every single day. Of course if the guy is going down some long hills the discs are REALLY needed.

So I am just talking about MY needs for brakes but honestly, people are freaked out about something they don't need to be. Good drums driving reasonably work just fine.

Brian

[nvrdone]

Old crow - I don't see a problem
I have a No limit kit (PBF -48 ) with a 74 - 90 Mustang m/c & booster in my '49 - 3100.
I have a 327 / M21 & there is lots of clearance. I did have to make a new trans mount to clear the under side of the m/c.
Ive got drums front & rear with a 10 # residual valve in the front line.
It stops better with power than with the original non power m/c but not as good as my new cars
Discs will be a future up grade

[wolffcub]

This is the kit i used.

http://www.classicparts.com/1947-54-...ctinfo/71-904/

You can keep your stock pedal assembly for both brake and clutch and run power brakes. Im running a 3 speed with a hurst shifter setup and have no issues. The only issue is the master cylinder is kinda located a bit under the seat riser so forming a proper hole to access the master cyl is a bit awkward.

[wolffcub]

Old pictures but you get the idea.

[MARTINSR]

Awesome info and the photo is great. What I am interested in Wolfcub is the pink accessory by the right front wheel.

Brian

[wolffcub]

Originally Posted by MARTINSR

Awesome info and the photo is great. What I am interested in Wolfcub is the pink accessory by the right front wheel.

Brian

That's my backup ride when all else fails with my build.

[wolffcub]

Originally Posted by wolffcub

This is the kit i used.

http://www.classicparts.com/1947-54-...ctinfo/71-904/

You can keep your stock pedal assembly for both brake and clutch and run power brakes. Im running a 3 speed with a hurst shifter setup and have no issues. The only issue is the master cylinder is kinda located a bit under the seat riser so forming a proper hole to access the master cyl is a bit awkward.

Now that i think about it I lied. The stock chassis cross member had to be removed and replaced. Thats what you see the newer tubular style installed. The stock member will hit the brake booster.

[Old Crow]

Ok, then, shouldn't be a problem. This truck will be using the stock bell housing with the 4 speed and closed driveline, so no rear crossmember or shift linkage to worry about.
I was thinking that since the clutch and brake pedal both pivot off the same pin that there was maybe an issue with the pedal hitting something, but from the looks of the pic that isn't the problem.
I may end up with that Classic Parts booster and bracket, although, I talked to the people at The Right Stuff, and they are telling me there's no issue with their bracket.
I still have to use a different brand(CPP I think)for the lower brake kit in order to get rotors and stuff for the 6 lug hubs.

Oh, well, at least I talked him out of trying to run Vintage Air *and* power steering.

[mr48chev]

Someone on here has a photo of their Task Force truck with a power master cylinder that is set further back with a long heavy duty push rod. Depending on the pieces you are using it gets pretty snug up alongside the transmission.

[Old Crow]

Found this pic of the rolling frame the way it came to us. From the position of the pivot pin for the pedals it looks to me like there's plenty of room for the booster/master combo.




I don't understand why all the manufacturers say their stuff won't work with a manual trans, but I'll probably find out before I'm done.

I already know about the inconvienience of filling the m/c. Found that out on the '58 we finished a while back.

[wolffcub]

the booster on mine does get a little close to the shifter rods. I got about 1/8" gap between the largest diameter area of the booster and the 1st - reverse arm. That could be why they put out that warning. Better for them to say that then have people complain after if something will not fit 100% all the time.

[wolffcub]

I took my cab back off my truck last night so i will post up some detailed pictures of how mine fits and what i did for a spring return setup.

[Old Crow]

That would be great.
I just watched the install videos on the Brother's site. I can see where they replaced the clutch pedal with a plain bushing, but I can't see what about the installation would interfere with the stock clutch linkage or operation.
From the looks of all the installation articles and videos I've watched in the last couple of days, I'm the only one putting power brakes in an otherwise stock truck.

[jetnow1]

I wonder if the fit is workable with the stock drivetrain- but not with a swap to a later bellhousing and trans. Since most people swapping the brake components would also
be swapping drivetrains the manufacturers find it easier to just say does not work with
manual trans than try to figure out what combos would fit and what would not.