recessed bed strips

[lowrodderchev]

So do the bed strips need to be recessed? Or can I just place them on top of the wood and bolt them down? I decided to use a sheet of oak plywood for my bed just trying to figure out my next move thanx

[Sillyoldman]

Not saying that bed strips over the wood won't be functional but the strips would be higher than the tail gate sill and hang up on things being loaded. I'd recess them. it's easy with a table saw or router table.

[dubie]

You could run a router along a clamped down straight edge to make a recess in the top veneer of the plywood so the strips recess and sit flush

[Sillyoldman]

Originally Posted by dubie

You could run a router along a clamped down straight edge to make a recess in the top veneer of the plywood so the strips recess and sit flush

Good point I missed the Plywood part. Why not solid wood planks? Plywood will deteriorate quicker than solid wood. Seems like too much work to save a few bucks.

[Speedbumpauto]

I did it exactly the way you are saying, with oak veneer plywood. I was going to do the router thing but discovered the edges of the strip stick down farther than the center where the bolts go. My solution was to use a dab of clear silicone adhesive to a 1/4 flat washer and glue it to the bottom of each hole. That way the center ends up being the same height as the edge and the washer stays put when you install the strip. I think it came out really sweet + I didn't have to use those big, fat, ugly ass washers/bolts in the 4 or 6 places that hold the original bed down. Always thought those things ruined the symmetry of the bed....AND I got to run the strips where I wanted and think I improved the spacing of the strips. Remember, you're going to have to cut that sheet into three pieces(you might get by with 2) to properly install it under the side angle strips and sit in the well at the bed end made for it, so that determines the location of two of the strips. You can see the ends of my bed strips above the wood at the very end of the bed(as mentioned above) but you have to get down pretty low to see it and then only with the tail gate open. I don't think it detracts.

[lowrodderchev]

few bucks? saved like $200 bucks. ive seen other guys do it so thought why not. I just wasn't sure if they really needed to sit flush

[Donaldo]

If the drought ever ends and the truck is uncovered outside the plywood layers will delaminate and fail, marine grade plywood will last longer than any other X grade, but it's expensive too.

The cost of time/labor is basically going to be the same to do it "right" the first time - it costs a lot more to undo and then redo - and I know immediate finances are a factor.

[lowrodderchev]

Originally Posted by Speedbumpauto

I did it exactly the way you are saying, with oak veneer plywood. I was going to do the router thing but discovered the edges of the strip stick down farther than the center where the bolts go. My solution was to use a dab of clear silicone adhesive to a 1/4 flat washer and glue it to the bottom of each hole. That way the center ends up being the same height as the edge and the washer stays put when you install the strip. I think it came out really sweet + I didn't have to use those big, fat, ugly ass washers/bolts in the 4 or 6 places that hold the original bed down. Always thought those things ruined the symmetry of the bed....AND I got to run the strips where I wanted and think I improved the spacing of the strips. Remember, you're going to have to cut that sheet into three pieces(you might get by with 2) to properly install it under the side angle strips and sit in the well at the bed end made for it, so that determines the location of two of the strips. You can see the ends of my bed strips above the wood at the very end of the bed(as mentioned above) but you have to get down pretty low to see it and then only with the tail gate open. I don't think it detracts.

your the guy I got the idea from running a sheet thank you the truck is garage and will not be driven so I'm not worried to much about rain I was planning on shooting it with automotive clear. being that the bed is raised I have the option of mounting it however I want so I could move the bolt holes around

[OrrieG]

I got 15 years out of the 3/4 CDX I tossed over the bad wood bed in mine! hauled a lot of yard debris. About half the time it was covered by a slide in camper. Rest out in the weather, with a coat of exterior paint now and then...I was rat rod before the term was coined

[Speedbumpauto]

Just eliminate those bolts and weld in studs in the cross sill holes where the bolts would go through. Easy enough to do and it cleans up the bed a huge amount, I think. I used urethane finish, the HD petroleum based kind, on the top and edges(very important) and did the bottom in bed liner like the rest of the underbody.

[lowrodderchev]

I was just trying to figure out finish. had a guy tell me car clear would last longer. I like the natural color and look of the wood

[lowrodderchev]

[Sillyoldman]

Originally Posted by lowrodderchev

few bucks? saved like $200 bucks. ive seen other guys do it so thought why not. I just wasn't sure if they really needed to sit flush

Honestly I have never done a plywood bed but just reflecting on my experience with factory type dimensional wood. It was labor intensive. Personally I'd pay a "few bucks" more to assure that it lasts longer since it's a job I really would not want to do again any time soon. Have you checked out GMC Pauls? They have some really good milling instructions. Hope this is helpful & keep us posted.

[69chevytrucker]

i did mine with 15 inch wide pine boards that way i could space the strips where i wanted them

[lowrodderchev]

Originally Posted by 69chevytrucker

i did mine with 15 inch wide pine boards that way i could space the strips where i wanted them
Attachment 1274284

Attachment 1274285

Attachment 1274286

Its hard to tell but did you recess your strips?

[69chevytrucker]

Originally Posted by lowrodderchev

Its hard to tell but did you recess your strips?

nope and they fit really flat now i will never use my bed so dont know if that matters but i think it looks good and i did it for under a $100

[69chevytrucker]

Originally Posted by lowrodderchev

I was just trying to figure out finish. had a guy tell me car clear would last longer. I like the natural color and look of the wood

stacy david from the tv show trucks used car clear on copperhead

[Speedbumpauto]

I don't think the 3 coats of urethane took away from the wood grain. It did make it shine but I wanted that. Don't know if I would trust plywood if I wanted the natural, uncoated look. Lots of oil might work but that veneer peals up pretty easily.

[lowrodderchev]

Originally Posted by Speedbumpauto

I don't think the 3 coats of urethane took away from the wood grain. It did make it shine but I wanted that. Don't know if I would trust plywood if I wanted the natural, uncoated look. Lots of oil might work but that veneer peals up pretty easily.

looks good you recessed your strips to right?

[_Ogre]

Originally Posted by lowrodderchev

the truck is garage and will not be driven so I'm not worried to much about rain

sorry lowrodder, your truck has just sunk to the lowest level in my book

veneer plywood is paper thin, even with the lightest sanding you have to be careful with sand thru
even with 10 coats of poly, just running thru a puddle with water splashing up will ruin the plywood
if your just leaving it in the garage it won't matter if you recess the bed strips or not
or for that matter if you put a bed on it

if your going to go thru all the trouble of building a truck at a minimum put the hard pine bed back in it
but not driving it or not making it waterproof what's the point?

22,000 miles on truk in 5 yrs, just finished 2700 miles june 6 to 14, spent a day and a half driving in the rain

[lowrodderchev]

wait wait and WAIT LOL let me rephrase that it wont be driven in the rain to much is what I meant . I'm a strong believer in driving my cars every chance I get as much as possible. my fleetline has seen a lot of roads rough and not so rough highways back roads and alleys but when its pooring rain she stays in the garage. same will go for my truck.

[lowrodderchev]

its a thick face veneer I'm going off what others have used in the past

[Speedbumpauto]

No, I didn't recess the strips, just put the washer under the holes so they wouldn't dimple when the bolt was tightened. I looked at it closely yesterday when this thread took on a life, and the metal shelf at the rear of the bed the wood sits on is recessed just enough where it hides the exposed edges people are whining about. Ogre, I don't think you're giving the 3/4 plywood enough credit. I say the proof is in the pudding. Mine turned out great and it was way less than the wood kit. I did glue and dowel 1x2 strips to each edge of the sheet so it became 51" wide instead of 48 + it sealed the edges of the plywood lamination + it fits and bolts really well to the angle strips + it lends itself to the inner fenders I needed much better than cutting the individual pieces of wood. Mine gets driven and has already been wet but not on purpose and it won't be making any trips to the dump. Show me a better outcome for those of us who are building a fun truck as opposed to a work truck and if in a couple of years mine starts to delaminate, I'll come on here and tell all of the pitfall.......you first.

[lowrodderchev]

Originally Posted by Speedbumpauto

No, I didn't recess the strips, just put the washer under the holes so they wouldn't dimple when the bolt was tightened. I looked at it closely yesterday when this thread took on a life, and the metal shelf at the rear of the bed the wood sits on is recessed just enough where it hides the exposed edges people are whining about. Ogre, I don't think you're giving the 3/4 plywood enough credit. I say the proof is in the pudding. Mine turned out great and it was way less than the wood kit. I did glue and dowel 1x2 strips to each edge of the sheet so it became 51" wide instead of 48 + it sealed the edges of the plywood lamination + it fits and bolts really well to the angle strips + it lends itself to the inner fenders I needed much better than cutting the individual pieces of wood. Mine gets driven and has already been wet but not on purpose and it won't be making any trips to the dump. Show me a better outcome for those of us who are building a fun truck as opposed to a work truck and if in a couple of years mine starts to delaminate, I'll come on here and tell all of the pitfall.......you first.

ooooh ok I read what you had pref said but now I understand what you meant about the strips being uneven. I was thinking you were saying the end to end not side to side. thank you for the replies I appreciate everyones help and input very much

[Donaldo]

Not everyone lives in the arid southwest, even there plywood will eventually delaminate. Being on the central CA coast it just happens quicker here, inevitably.