Spray in bedliner on wood?

[72step]

So I'm going to have my cabinet maker neighbor cut and dado groove my bed wood from all weather plywood or something like that he suggested. I then plan on using a spray in bedliner over the wood and the inside of my stepside bed in order to have a fully functioning pickup. Is there anything I should know about spraying over wood or special prep? Is this even possible with good results? Thanks...Matt

[NEWFISHER]

Yes, 80 grit is your friend. Check out the second build in my sig

[61_FL_Apache]

Why not use a steel floor then coat it?

[72step]

Originally Posted by NEWFISHER

Yes, 80 grit is your friend. Check out the second build in my sig

Don't see anything in your Sig.?

[72step]

Originally Posted by 61_FL_Apache

Why not use a steel floor then coat it?

That's an idea. Like from a full size junk yard truck? I wonder what the you'll will set you back on one? It's hardto beat a $40 sheet of plywood when my neighbor cuts it free.

[72step]

Originally Posted by 61_FL_Apache

Why not use a steel floor then coat it?

That's an idea. Like from a full size junk yard truck? I wonder what the u pull will set you back on one? It's hardto beat a $40 sheet of plywood when my neighbor cuts it free.

[luvbowties]

Originally Posted by 61_FL_Apache

Why not use a steel floor then coat it?

I heartily agree--from experience. Get an 8-ft corrugated, steel bed--yes, to do just a short stepside--from a newer truck(mine came from a 2003 Silverado, long, wide bed). "Square up" a few holes using a 3-sided file so shoulder bolts fit nicely. Take your time, as u can't do it for others as a living:too time-consuming. Bolt it in properly, using all bolts from the wood-slat bed, rhino-line(better products now out there supposedly) and enjoy letting it rain, snow, sleet into bed & don't worry about having to re-do the staining/polyurethaning process on the wood slats.
Good luck.
Sam

[NEWFISHER]

Its in here somewhere
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=597187
Worked really good

[72step]

Originally Posted by luvbowties

I heartily agree--from experience. Get an 8-ft corrugated, steel bed--yes, to do just a short stepside--from a newer truck(mine came from a 2003 Silverado, long, wide bed). "Square up" a few holes using a 3-sided file so shoulder bolts fit nicely. Take your time, as u can't do it for others as a living:too time-consuming. Bolt it in properly, using all bolts from the wood-slat bed, rhino-line(better products now out there supposedly) and enjoy letting it rain, snow, sleet into bed & don't worry about having to re-do the staining/polyurethaning process on the wood slats.
Good luck.
Sam

Man that looks awesome! How hard is it to cut one out and how much did you Pattie the floor? Does it sit just rifhron top of the factory cross braces?

[72step]

I've been giving it some thought and I'm still thinking the wood my neighbor will cut is still less time and money that hunting down, cutting out, paying for, then custom cutting and fitting into my bed a steel floor. Newfishers truck looks just as good and functional.

[72step]

Can anyone recommend a good quality spray in bedliner material with a semigloss finish available to the diy guy?

[NEWFISHER]

Originally Posted by 72step

Can anyone recommend a good quality spray in bedliner material with a semigloss finish available to the diy guy?

By the time you buy a DIY kit ( that is no way as durable as the 2 part spray epoxy like Linex, MasterCoat or Arma) and do it yourself, you will be just a few bucks shy of having the boards sprayed seperate and then having the inner panels done.

[72step]

Originally Posted by NEWFISHER

By the time you buy a DIY kit ( that is no way as durable as the 2 part spray epoxy like Linex, MasterCoat or Arma) and do it yourself, you will be just a few bucks shy of having the boards sprayed seperate and then having the inner panels done.

I guess I don't comprehend; So you're saying I'd be better off paying a lined dealer to do it??

[siggyfreud]

Originally Posted by 72step

I guess I don't comprehend; So you're saying I'd be better off paying a lined dealer to do it??

Yep. You may save a few bucks on the front end, but the DIY stuff usually doesn't last as long, and isn't as durable as a professional two-part spray.

[72step]

Originally Posted by NEWFISHER

By the time you buy a DIY kit ( that is no way as durable as the 2 part spray epoxy like Linex, MasterCoat or Arma) and do it yourself, you will be just a few bucks shy of having the boards sprayed seperate and then having the inner panels done.

Is there a point in doing the boards separate? I was thinking of fully assembling the wood floor after sanding the wood with 80 grit and wire wheeling the sill pieces then just getting the whole inside lined. I mean if you get the wood lined first then I'm imagining it would be a pain trying to install it with the thick material screwing over your dado grooves in the wood???--Correct me if I'm wrong?

[siggyfreud]

Mainly so you can get the seams and underside sealed I imagine.

[NEWFISHER]

Originally Posted by 72step

Is there a point in doing the boards separate? I was thinking of fully assembling the wood floor after sanding the wood with 80 grit and wire wheeling the sill pieces then just getting the whole inside lined. I mean if you get the wood lined first then I'm imagining it would be a pain trying to install it with the thick material screwing over your dado grooves in the wood???--Correct me if I'm wrong?

I did mine individually to seal the edges not allowing rain etc to warp the boards from the side ( mine doesnt sit in a garage ) and allow the product to wrap or encapsulate each piece. A trained spray technician can adjust the thickness and texture of the product on an individual component. The DIY stuff looks great, is rubbery, doesnt withsand heavy use but if it's a light duty hauler and you are not loading anything more than lumber or the occasional carboard box you should be fine. It's kinda like a paint job....you pay for what you get.

I have learned when restoring/fixing up etc trucks cars bikes there is a Golden rule:

I want it fast

I want it cheap

I want it good

You can only pick 2

[72step]

Originally Posted by NEWFISHER

I did mine individually to seal the edges not allowing rain etc to warp the boards from the side ( mine doesnt sit in a garage ) and allow the product to wrap or encapsulate each piece. A trained spray technician can adjust the thickness and texture of the product on an individual component. The DIY stuff looks great, is rubbery, doesnt withsand heavy use but if it's a light duty hauler and you are not loading anything more than lumber or the occasional carboard box you should be fine. It's kinda like a paint job....you pay for what you get.

I have learned when restoring/fixing up etc trucks cars bikes there is a Golden rule:

I want it fast

I want it cheap

I want it good

You can only pick 2

Thanks for all the info Newfisher. You're truck and burb are beautiful by the way! I plan to use the truck for a very occasional trip to the hardware store or to take my trash to the dump on occasion. I'm thinking I'm going to throw my tractor out of the garage and put my truck in there after I paint it pretty soon so moisture will not be an issue. Plus I live in the southwest. I'm thinking I'm going to go with the monstaliner with the turquila tint which will be pretty close to the original aqua green color of the truck and will look cool. I like fast too but I always have a lack of trust when paying someone to do a job lol.

[NEWFISHER]

Thanks...Post some pics during the process.

[donthekawguy]

Why not do nice wood and when you use it as a truck throw that piece of plywood in the back so the good looking wood won't get hurt? The wood bed is one of things that make older truck cool. When you pull into to get gas no one is going to say theu did a great job spraying that rhino liner.

[siggyfreud]

I agree about the traditional slats and metal looking great. But for those that use the truck regularly it just wouldn't be practical to store and lug a big piece of plywood around and then remove it.

I took will probably do a plywood or metal bed with a liner in mine.

[spacedebris]

one problem with coating wood. You need to make sure that the wood is VERY dry to start and then make sure that the liner totally seals the wood. Do this and it works good.

However, if the wood is wet (green wood) or you dont totally seal the wood then the wood can go to mush. Ask me how I know If the wood can get wet, the liner will hold in the moister and the wood will just disintegrate.

I did this once on a camp trailer, I coated the wood underneath and had linoleum on top. Water being tracked in when raining or spilling a drink got into the wood and the liner kept the wood wet. It only lasted one year. The next season I opened it up getting ready for camping season, took two steps into the trailer and fell through the floor. The wood looked like wet sawdust when I started pulling it apart. When I replaced the wood. I coated the wood on all sides and made sure it sealed well. Lasted 8 years before I sold it. Just a word to the wise.

[franken]

I'd paint the wood black or if its dark, the body color. Black will be invisible and easily touched up. I think the truck in your avatar or whatever would have been black, while later, or at least around '73 body color.
I'd fear bedliner will fail to adhere over time, and plywood will fail, as well as look like plywood.
Also, if its a stepside, making oak planks is even easier than a fleet. Plain steel strips are cheap.
I think you'll find it pretty easy to snag templates for cutting the planks here, or on the Mar-k site: www.mar-k.com

Oak will last 40 years and look good doing it.

If you have a woodworker friend or have a tablesaw and router you can get white oak (I think) from a wood supply place, maybe let it dry a bit, trim to width, cut the grooves and trim to length, and apply a finish (not bedliner).

How much will the truck spend out in the weather?

[72step]

I know wood is warm and beautiful and all that but I used to have a 71 stepper with a nice oak bed and stainless strips. Truck never did me any good as a truck. It won't see a lot of moisture nor will it be a daily driver but if I want to throw my trash or go pickup an appliance or throw my mountain bike back there I want it to be up to the task. I had thought of using synthetic deck boards like veranda but I don't think they make it in 3/4"?

With that said this is an original 230 inline 6 4 spd truck and want to keep with the original theme. And yes these trucks came with black painted wood floors from factory.

[72step]

Originally Posted by luvbowties

I heartily agree--from experience. Get an 8-ft corrugated, steel bed--yes, to do just a short stepside--from a newer truck(mine came from a 2003 Silverado, long, wide bed). "Square up" a few holes using a 3-sided file so shoulder bolts fit nicely. Take your time, as u can't do it for others as a living:too time-consuming. Bolt it in properly, using all bolts from the wood-slat bed, rhino-line(better products now out there supposedly) and enjoy letting it rain, snow, sleet into bed & don't worry about having to re-do the staining/polyurethaning process on the wood slats.
Good luck.
Sam

Did you have to relocate the "L" strip that's welded to the bed? I'm assuming the steel floor is resting on the braces so you would've had 3/4" space between the bed floor and "L" bracket??