LSx fuel supply without AN fittings.

[68shortfleet]

Looking to see options for building a LS fuel supply system without an extensive use of AN fittings.

Basically all factory vehicle fuel systems run a short section of flexible line near the tank and a short section near the motor. That is what I want.

What kind of options do I have? Suggestions? Pics/part numbers?

[scottybaccus]

I used an in-tank pump, on the pick-up for an '87 TBI truck. It just uses push on hoses for supply and return. You do want the proper hose clamps for efi. The best hose I found is Gates Barricade EFI hose. It comes in two pressure ratings. You want the higher. I have hard line down the frame rail, with a fuel filter halfway, turning up just behind the starter. You can use the same hose from here, to the fuel rail. You will need a barbed fitting that fits the fuel rail. Most parts stores have them.
Be sure to use a heat sleeve as the hose crosses anywhere near the exhaust.
I also used a tool called Clamp-Tite to apply stainless safety wire hose clamps, rather than worm drive, or worse. You can apply heavy heat shrink, such as that used on AC wires that feed your house, over the wire clamps to make them look more factory. Google the tool.

[BR3W CITY]

I always add this; if you plan on taking the truck on any NHRA drag strips, having more than a foot of rubber hose (even the EFI approved stuff), will fail tech.

[lynnfield]

You can check out what I did here: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=585899&page=5

Posts 107-118, 145, & 154

[yossarian19]

I think I mentioned in my build thread..
What i used was Dorman nylon fuel line and fittings. It's found in a lot of OEM applications, it's cheap, it's easy to work with. If you wanted you could adapt it to a run of steel line along the frame and use the nylon to get to the rail. Any 3/8 barbed fitting will work - no need to buy special tools, either - just take your time and it all goes together pretty easy.
If I were building a race car or street / strip machine I'd go AN. Since I'm not... the nylon line was perfect.

[portworks]

Very easy to do with the blazer tank and modified stock sender/pickup assy and an intank pump . Using stainless hard line, with compression fittings and push lock hose !

I will have a complete new intank pump assy for sale very soon. Upgrading to twin turbos !

[68shortfleet]

Originally Posted by yossarian19

I think I mentioned in my build thread..
What i used was Dorman nylon fuel line and fittings. It's found in a lot of OEM applications, it's cheap, it's easy to work with. If you wanted you could adapt it to a run of steel line along the frame and use the nylon to get to the rail. Any 3/8 barbed fitting will work - no need to buy special tools, either - just take your time and it all goes together pretty easy.
If I were building a race car or street / strip machine I'd go AN. Since I'm not... the nylon line was perfect.

After I posted this thread, I talked to a friend of mine that has a repair shop about this. He also suggested the Dorman fittings and steel/stainless line for my build. He stocks the Dorman fittings and has the tool to make the special flare for the fittings.

Exactly what I was looking for.

And I agree with you, race/strip car would definitely be getting AN fittings.

[68shortfleet]

Originally Posted by lynnfield

You can check out what I did here: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=585899&page=5

Posts 107-118, 145, & 154

Lynnfield. You have an amazing build going on. Your build ideas appear very close to how mine will be done. Things like factory looking fuel line plumbing and re-routing wires in the bulkhead connector so it can still be separated. It's all in the details..

[mattcrp1]

The Dorman nylon fuel line worked well. I also added the summit heat sleeve to the section that transitioned from the frame over the planned exhaust routing up along the back side of the transmission for added protection.

[Bowtiguy]

http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/...uel-rails.html

This is a link to how I converted my SS factory hard lineson my C6Z to accept AN line to the fuel rails. If the "russel" part would have failed while I was road racing, it would have been all over.

Here is a link to the MFG part #

http://www.swagelok.com/search/produ...t=SS-600-6-6AN

[BR3W CITY]

Originally Posted by Bowtiguy

If the "russel" part would have failed while I was road racing, it would have been all over.

The Russel part with aknowledged failure is the early part # PTC fittings, not any of the compression fit or flare fit parts. The failure was due to poorly designed inner retaining clips, and not any inherent failure of a brand. It has since been replaced with a capped clip that can't really fail.

[Bowtiguy]

Originally Posted by BR3W CITY

The Russel part with aknowledged failure is the early part # PTC fittings, not any of the compression fit or flare fit parts. The failure was due to poorly designed inner retaining clips, and not any inherent failure of a brand. It has since been replaced with a capped clip that can't really fail.

that's good to know. My issue was over 4 years back. For those not going with swage lock or another option, is there a way for anyone to differentiate between the bad and "revised" part?

[Oklahoma_k5]

Anybody tried using something like this?

Amazon.com: Dorman 800-300 Nylon Fuel Line Repair...
$200 to have all the fittings that might be used in one box is pretty enticing.

Factory uses plastic lines so???

is this what you are talking about Matt