'58 brake MC remote reservoir location

[dyno]

I bought this kit from POL for my 58 and am not happy with the cheesy plastic remote reservoir that came with it. The mounting tabs are on the bottom and offset from each other. I wanted to mount it on the firewall, so I guess I'll make a mounting strap for it. What have you guys done?

[thebebop]

I bought a polished aluminum radiator overflow reservoir from Johnny Law Motors. I removed the internal long pipe and cut it down to the bottom of the tank which is easy on theirs because they simply unscrew. I purchased the 8" long one so it would fit on the firewall and it came with real nice billet mounting brackets. They had them on sale last month and i picked it up for under $40.

I originally purchased the same one you have and just couldn't bring myself to put that cheesy plastic in my engine compartment.

The truck is on the lift right now getting brake lines so I can't get a pic of it installed.

Here's a link to theirs: http://www.johnnylawmotors.com/catal...ith-2-brackets

[dyno]

That looks like the ticket. Missed the sale, now it's 69.95. I think I may opt to get the 6" model as that would have plenty of capacity.

[mr48chev]

Check the seller Welder Joe on ebay for that. Hoffman group's Ebay back door outlet like Johnny Law is their regular web outlet.

[dyno]

Thanks. I ordered one from Autoplicity. 68.00 including shipping.

[dyno]

Originally Posted by thebebop

I bought a polished aluminum radiator overflow reservoir from Johnny Law Motors. I removed the internal long pipe and cut it down to the bottom of the tank which is easy on theirs because they simply unscrew. I purchased the 8" long one so it would fit on the firewall and it came with real nice billet mounting brackets. They had them on sale last month and i picked it up for under $40.

I originally purchased the same one you have and just couldn't bring myself to put that cheesy plastic in my engine compartment.

The truck is on the lift right now getting brake lines so I can't get a pic of it installed.

Here's a link to theirs: http://www.johnnylawmotors.com/catal...ith-2-brackets

Just wondering if this is used as a remote cylinder, if a hole needs to be drilled in the cap to let the fluid flow and not air-lock.

[thebebop]

I use mine as a remote reservoir...no need for a hole as far as I know. Have had no problems with it functioning as required to date.

[dwcsr]

I made a bracket for mine

[dyno]

Originally Posted by thebebop

I use mine as a remote reservoir...no need for a hole as far as I know. Have had no problems with it functioning as required to date.

OK thanks. Still having problems with the pedal going all the way to the floor. The whole brake system is new, MC/booster, wheel cylinders, brake lines, pads and shoes. I've bled the system 3 times, adjusted the pushrod correctly, bench bled the MC again. Must be some air trapped somewhere. I may have to pressure bleed the system.

[dwcsr]

Originally Posted by dyno

OK thanks. Still having problems with the pedal going all the way to the floor. The whole brake system is new, MC/booster, wheel cylinders, brake lines, pads and shoes. I've bled the system 3 times, adjusted the pushrod correctly, bench bled the MC again. Must be some air trapped somewhere. I may have to pressure bleed the system.

I had the same issue. make sure the rod from the pedal is adjusted properly. It took a few days for all the air to move from the master up to the remote fill.

We bleed it 4 or 5 times and found the pedal rod was more the issue. tap the remote lines to help the air move upward. bleed slowly one push at a time, make sure the shoes are adjusted properly, and use the prop valve tool to hold it centered. Even after we were done it felt soft and traveled farther than I would have liked but nearly put me on the dash when I stopped hard. I did end up with a 1.125" master in the end and got a decent pedal and good stopping.

[dyno]

Originally Posted by dwcsr

I had the same issue. make sure the rod from the pedal is adjusted properly. It took a few days for all the air to move from the master up to the remote fill.

We bleed it 4 or 5 times and found the pedal rod was more the issue. tap the remote lines to help the air move upward. bleed slowly one push at a time, make sure the shoes are adjusted properly, and use the prop valve tool to hold it centered. Even after we were done it felt soft and traveled farther than I would have liked but nearly put me on the dash when I stopped hard. I did end up with a 1.125" master in the end and got a decent pedal and good stopping.

Thanks for the help. So, as I understand, the MC push rod should have no pre-load on the MC. I have it set to where there is no play in the rod, but it is not pushing in on the cylinder either. Is that correct?

I did tap the remote hoses until all the bubbles quit. I thought that at first that was my problem and that there was air between the remote and master cylinder, eventually ending up trapped in the MC.

[dwcsr]

Originally Posted by dyno

Thanks for the help. So, as I understand, the MC push rod should have no pre-load on the MC. I have it set to where there is no play in the rod, but it is not pushing in on the cylinder either. Is that correct?

I did tap the remote hoses until all the bubbles quit. I thought that at first that was my problem and that there was air between the remote and master cylinder, eventually ending up trapped in the MC.

filling the master prior to putting on the cap and hoses helps, it gets a bit messy but helps with the trapped air.

if you have a booster then you want about .010 between the master cup and the booster pin. The rod off the brake pedal may need to be adjusted so that it just starts the booster pin to move when you push the pedal.

Remove the master or just loosen it and move it out of the way so you can see the booster pin. Adjust the front rod so when you pull the pedal arm down you feel the pin move. You can put your finder on the booster pin to feel the movement when you move the pedal lever, you'll also be able to see how far it travels before it engages the booster pin.

[thebebop]

I had a similar problem...we kept bleeding and bleeding but just couldn't get them to stay pumped up. The specs on the unit we bought for disc brakes front and rear said it had a built in proportioning valve...but in fact did not. We purchased 2 and put them on and had the brakes done in 1/2 hour.

[thebebop]

Originally Posted by thebebop

I had a similar problem...we kept bleeding and bleeding but just couldn't get them to stay pumped up. The specs on the unit we bought for disc brakes front and rear said it had a built in proportioning valve...but in fact did not. We purchased 2 and put them on and had the brakes done in 1/2 hour.

Scratch that I meant the proportioning valve was supposed to have built in residual valves...which it didn't so we bought 2 of them, one for the front and one for the rear...once installed the brakes bled perfectly

[dyno]

I did a little research on residual valves. I may need to install them since my MC is below the floor.

"Residual valves are pressure valves used to retain pressure in the lines. The most common use is on a hot rod when there is a floor mounted brake pedal and master cylinder. Mounting the master cylinder (M/C) below the floor positions it below the calipers. Gravity will cause the fluid to flow away from the calipers. The residual valve will retain pressure within the lines. (i.e. 2 pounds residual valve will retain 2 pounds of pressure, 10 pound will retain 10 pounds.) Drum brake master cylinders have residual valve(s) built into the master cylinder. This is needed to maintain pressure against the cup seals in the wheel cylinders. If you are using a disc brake master cylinder or after market you will need to install a 10 pound residual valve for the drum brakes. Do not install a residual valve if your master cylinder already has one in it. This will cause the brakes to lock up after the second application to the brake pedal. "

[dwcsr]

Residual valves are only for masters that are below the wheel cylinders. You master has always been below the floor and never needed a residual valve so it doesn't need one now.

[dyno]

Thanks. Troublesooting with performance online tech.